| Author |
Message |
    
Martin Taylor
New User
Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Friday, 23 January, 2004 - 10:54 pm: |    |
I don't know what temp the buzzer sounds but I can tell you my Shadow can run all day with the stat jammed closed and the coolant boiling away without the engine getting hot enough to trigger the buzzer, I believe the buzzer will only go when the coolant is lost or ceases circulation, my thermostat stuck shut and the water pump seal let go (fortunatly close to home). I too am installing a temp gauge (a lot of work to make one look like it is meant to be there). The sensor needs to be in the coolant. There is no point in installing the sensor in the top hose or elbow as this is after the thermostat and will only tell you the temperature of the coolant in the radiator not the engine, it will indicate cold if your stat jams shut. There is a plug in the top of the coolant passage on the inlet manifold where a shallow sender can be fitted (where I'm fitting mine once adaptors are made). |
bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 195.93.33.11
| | Posted on Sunday, 25 January, 2004 - 06:44 am: | |
I sorted the sensor position .
I found a blanking plug in a waterway on the inlet manifold on the engine side of the stat.
gauge now works perfect and am no longer paranoid about overheating. |
Martin Taylor
New User
Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, 03 February, 2004 - 06:13 pm: | |
I put a mechanical temperature gauge in the same place, it had a 30mm face and I fitted it where the radio balance control was. To match the other gauges I scanned the face and modified it on the computer to look the same. The car now runs at about 80 degrees (I think I have the earlier thermostat).
Next to fix is the steam valve as mine leaks whenever the engine stops.
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John Dare
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 144.138.194.108
| | Posted on Tuesday, 03 February, 2004 - 07:24 pm: | |
Dear Martin, I had the same idea to put a mech. temp gauge (that shows accurate reading - 80c sounds ok to me!) into my 1970 S/S, which has a factory "blank off" plug (VERY strange!) where there would normally/otherwise be, the radio balance control. Problem was, I just never could find a dial face THAT small - 30mm?). Could you kindly advise make/model of gauge you fitted and also the engine heat point to which you plumbed/fitted it. All Ive seen to date with separate temp. gauges is where some "expert" has hacked into the factory matched, wood facia console, to fit a 50mm gauge, almost as if they were fitting up an old "Cortina"/"Torana" or some such. |
Bob Uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 195.93.33.11
| | Posted on Wednesday, 04 February, 2004 - 12:45 am: | |
I have in the past used lettra set ( art shops )
They are like tranfers which are rub on.
The gauge I brought was the same size as the fuel gauge.
I have fiited the gauge to the centre consul.
I made a new dash so as not to chop the old one which is now safely stored.
I think my Stat is 88 Celius.
scanning is a good idea I never thought of that.
Be carefull with the steam valve bolts they snap easy.
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Martin Taylor
Frequent User
Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 26
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, 30 May, 2004 - 09:23 pm: | |
The small 30mm gauge was (and I hate to admit this ) purchased from K Mart, it had 270 degrees of movement in the face, I scanned this and changed the lettering to match that of the ammeter and fuel gauge and carefully installed it with the vertical reading being 90c which it never reaches.
I will get some pictures and put them on a web site anyone is welcome to my artwork.
From memory the gauge cost $23NZ (about $10US). I could send you one if you cant find anything similar.
Martin
http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor/ |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 194
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Monday, 31 May, 2004 - 12:45 am: | |
Martin,
On your web site you state that your car was a York Motors' demonstrator in London. I assume you mean Sydney, which would also improve the value of the car.
RT. |
Martin Taylor
Frequent User
Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 27
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Monday, 31 May, 2004 - 06:51 am: | |
Hi Richard, I meant London.
I only started working on that page last night (sorry for the lack of pictures)
I have the papers for the car, they state that the customer is Rolls Royce Motors Ltd - Company car- Demonstrator. The Gaurantee date is 1-5-72.
Under special features it states the following:
Sundym glass not required
Automatic speed control
UD 18687 Radiomobile Stereo 8 Tape player
internally adjustable mirrors
Tape stowage litter between front seats
UB 14294 fire extinguisher
Kangol safety belts with buzzer and warning light
black tubeless tyres
To be fitted with compliant front suspension
Central door locking
Air conditioning and heating
The History from RR states that it was the exhibition vehicle for one year, after that it was chauffer driven for the ICI chairman.
I also have another letter form Dutton-Forshaw Ltd that states that it was a demonstration model and was one of the first shadows fitted with compliant suspension.
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KC
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 168.210.90.232
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 June, 2004 - 04:02 pm: | |
Gentleman, I would appreciate your expert opinion on the following. I also decided to fit a mechanical temperature gauge, as I don’t really trust the “idiot” gauge in the car. However, I simply could not find any way of bringing the sensor wire / pipe into the cab. In view of this I mounted the gauge in the engine bay. When the original gauge seems to indicate high temperature, I can stop the car and have a look to see what the real temperature is by looking in the engine bay. Not a perfect solution, I know, but it’s better than guessing.
I fitted the sensor in the upper radiator hose, thinking that it will indicate the temperature as the water exits the head. I know it will only measure the temperature once the thermostat opens. I note Martin’s comment that this is not the most suitable location for the sensor. Am I wasting my time with this set-up? Should I replace the old hose and stop worrying about water temperature?
See pics here: http://www.kcandjen.za.net/homepage32.html
Regards
KC
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Martin Taylor
Frequent User
Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 28
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 02 June, 2004 - 09:50 pm: | |
Hi KC,
Where you have fitted yours tells you nothing useful (found this as this was the first place I placed mine) even the top of the inlet manifold is not the most desirable position, it will give the hottest engine reading being at the top but if the level drops or the system becomes air locked it will give a flase low reading when the sensor becomes dry.
Is the factory sender installed in the top of the inlet manifold or elsewhere? It is afterall head temperature we wish to monitor not coolant but no aftermarket gauges are made for this and all I have seen only measure coolant temperature.
Martin
http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor
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KC
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 168.210.90.232
| | Posted on Thursday, 03 June, 2004 - 03:24 pm: | |
Hi Martin
Thank you for your response. What you say makes sense. Under normal operating conditions, no air locks or fluid loss, would this arrangement not at least tell one that the engine is operating at acceptable temperatures? The coolant loss sensor will indicate coolant loss, so at least that is taken care off.
If my set-up it totally useless, I’d prefer to return it to original, but if there is some benefit, then I’d rather keep it as is. I’d appreciate any advice to help me decide on this.
Regards
KC
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 31
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 03 June, 2004 - 09:21 pm: | |
I found with a gauge in the same place that it indicated low until the car was warmed up and then it still only indicated low once there and intermittently showed warmer as the thermostat opened and closed to cool the engine in this cool climate, usually when driving at speed the stat is almost fully closed to keep the engine warm (at night in this country it is about five degrees outside). When running the car without a thermostat (recirculation passage blanked off) the engine barely reaches 60 degrees C.
So your gauge will show low most of the time, if it ever shows high it may be too late to be of any real use. I found the temperature after the thermostat usually spiked upwards after the engine was shut off. If you cannot connect into the manifold heating circuit you could always connect your sender into another coolant hose that runs at engine temperature.
I've found my shadow runs cool and loses no water, the heater is no where near as effective as it it was when the thermostat was stuck shut, I drove it for three weeks like this as I had no idea when I brought it.
Martin
http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor
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bob (62.7.11.167)
| | Posted on Saturday, 17 August, 2002 - 11:24 pm: | |
1974 Shadow SRH 17768
My Thermostat jammed shut and the engine got a bit hot but I caught it before the engine boiled over.
New stat Fitted (£30 UK)
No damaged done thank God.
The over heat buzzer failed to sound.
I earthed the wired and the buzzer worked.
I removed the switch from the right hand head.
I noticed that no coolant came out.
Does the switch measured cylinder head temperature rather than direct coolant temp?
I brought a TIM temperature gauge kit ( £20 UK cheap!!)
Which is similar in style to the other gauges.
The sensor for the gauge fitted the head.
The gauge reads 110 Celsius.
I guess the gauge sender needs to be in the coolant rather than just the head alloy.
I could fit the sender loose with separate earth wire inside the top hose close to the stat elbow.
Has any body got any ideas or solutions .
At what temperature should the buzzer sound.? |
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