| Author | Message | ||
     ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 417 Registered: 11-2015 |
I put in lower ball joints in the RR a week ago or so and thought I would write my experiences. I have a 1970 RR with first style of suspension and here's what I found. Procedure 1. jack car and put on stands 2. pull wheel 3. remove upper and lower ball joint nuts 4. compress the spring with a compressor 5. remove the ball joint tapers and swing the spindle out of the way supported on a jack. 6. remove the lower ball joint with a big wrench 7. replace wear surfaces 8. grease and tighten into place with a big wrench 9. insert the tapers and tighten the nuts 10. remove the spring compressor 11. put on the wheel I cannot imagine under what conditions one would have to order a replacement joint. As the early lower ball is shimmed, it is no less work ordering a complete unit. I ordered a rebuild kit but because the wear surfaces looked great, if I had to do it again, I would purchase replacement boots, regrease and reshim the joints and be done with it. It was a dirty but straight forward work with the only "special" tool being a big wrench and maybe the spring compressors. I would have taken pictures but it was pretty gross and I didn't want to touch my phone. I did take a picture of the wear surfaces of the liners just to show what 100k miles looks like (brand new turns out) | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1808 Registered: 6-2006 |
"I cannot imagine under what conditions one would have to order a replacement joint. As the early lower ball is shimmed, it is no less work ordering a complete unit. " When your ball is no longer shiny. There is a small window between having a small amount of play, to rust getting in there and filling the gap so there is no play any more. Then the ball looses it's mirror surface and it's a complete BJ needed. It's a shame they didn't put grease nipples on them. (Shadows to early SZ you can fit one to the top BJ.) I always GENTLY ease back the boot and look at the condition inside at annual servicing etc. MoT's will not show up a rusted BJ. Sounds like you were on the ball Ross and caught it at that moment  Nice work Ross!!! | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 420 Registered: 11-2015 |
Paul, I was in luck there were grease fittings installed at the top of each housing. I was in extra luck as they were zerk type so I could use my normal grease gun when done. The balls were covered in grease and looked good, the shells even had the grease groove still visible in them.  | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1698 Registered: 5-2012 |
Ross and Paul Thanks for putting this information up. I have a question regards points 3 (remove upper and lower ball joint nuts) and 4 (compress the spring with a compressor). Should these not be carried out in the reverse sequence? Is there not a risk of the suspension exploding if one of the taper joints is forced free by the pressure of the spring, if the nuts are removed first. I am not familiar with the front suspension on the Rolls so just want to clarify this point to check my understanding of the procedure. Geoff | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1809 Registered: 6-2006 |
Geoff, never been that lucky that they fall out ! lol. You can just put the stands safely somewhere under the damper ball joints the hubs are then free to do what they like. Later cars with no upper arm bump stops - the damper holds the bottom arms up so no spring clamp needed really. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1699 Registered: 5-2012 |
Thanks Paul | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 421 Registered: 11-2015 |
Geoff, Very true that springs are seriously dangerous. Probably the best procedure is spring compressors then loosen the nuts but keep them on the ends of the taper then jack lightly under lower a arm then loosen tapers then remove nuts then lower jack. That said, in this situation the spring can only extend as far as the lower bump stop. So no sproing. The reason for the compressors is really to aid getting the top taper started later. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1700 Registered: 5-2012 |
Cheers Ross |
