| Author | Message | ||
     Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 69 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Guys Just renewing some duff instrument bulbs. Am I right in saying that all the panel facia bulbs have the little blue condom giving that blue/green effect, yet the aircon control and cigar lighter area have naked bulbs giving the warm yellow hue? That is how mine seem to be. Ta | ||
| John Beech Prolific User Username: jbeech Post Number: 289 Registered: 10-2016 |
Are the bulbs wheat-type? Anyway, someone suggested painting LED bulbs with model enamel like Testors or Humbrol, There's a whole thread related to this. Anyway, eyeball these: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/22638.html?1480697500 This one has useful data regarding paint and LEDs: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/22032.html?1477904821 Last one: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/22536.html?1477840441 | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 70 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi John Not sure what wheat type are. All the bulbs are incandescent 2w small screw. Only all the bulbs on the facias have the blue condoms on them, whereas the centre console backlighting - for the air condition and emergency flashers, are "condomless", and therefore give a warm, yellow rather than blue light. Should this be, or should the centre console also have blue condoms? | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1789 Registered: 6-2006 |
Patrick, They should all be practicing safe sex. I wonder if somebody lost one . . So took the rest off? | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1370 Registered: 5-2015 |
GREEN LEDS LOOK GOOD AND VERY GREEN didnt mean to shout cap lock jammed. mine have green condoms and are fine but when they blow I shall convert to led I use the screw in base of the old bulb to convert without chopping the wiring abpot 10k resistor in series with LED | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2250 Registered: 6-2009 |
The original bulbs that are tiny and screw in are 12V E10 screw base. I would never replace these with incandescents now that LEDs are available in every color of the rainbow in this application. One of my favored sources: https://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-base-auto-led-lights.aspx I also would not use the original "bulb condoms" because they cut down really significantly on the amount of light you get and become discolored with age. I personally like a "white" (warm white) light much better than the blue light as it's so much easier to read the dash, but that's probably because the bulb condoms cut down so much on the amount of light. Blue (or any other color of your choosing) LEDs with transparent lenses would give much more light to begin with. | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 71 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Paul I was wondering why I was getting all these small clear bulbs dropping into the footwell, but no blue ones!  | ||
| John Beech Prolific User Username: jbeech Post Number: 300 Registered: 10-2016 |
Brian, there are 10 different E10-base LED bulbs shown on this website. In your experience, is one or the other better, or more suited? For example, the tall-round like these look like a good one: https://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-base-tall-round-led-light.aspx . . . but they have a short-round version and since I've not taken the dash apart I have no clue which is best for the purpose. Finally, have you any notes on how many bulbs are required so I can order enough before I get started? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1674 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi John The dashboards on these cars changed over the years, so you may have to check what size and type your car requires. I'm not sure if your car has the initial, all wood dashboard or whether it has the series 1 dashboard. If your dash is the same as the later series 1 models then the bulbs you have pointed to will be too large. I used E5 midget round top bulbs. https://www.ledlight.com/e5-midget-screw-base-led-lights.aspx I recall 6 are required, but I ordered 10 anyway as they are so low price. The gauges use larger LEDs. On my car they have T10 push in wedge holders. The LEDs I used are here: (product code 47561) https://www.ledlight.com/t10-194-automotive-led-lights.aspx My car uses 4, but best to order more as they are low-cost and might save you having to re-order if one is faulty. I have replaced all the bulbs in my gauges and also the miniature bulbs that illuminate the switches. They have transformed the dash. Since they only have white LEDs in the miniature size I used enamel paint to color them. The enamel comes in small bottles from the Michael's hobby store. Very effective and gives a bright blue light. I would be very wary about changing the warning light bulbs. I have left them unchanged on my car. Some of the warning systems rely on the correct resistance in the bulb for correct operation e.g. the coolant level amp. Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1675 Registered: 5-2012 |
Here are a couple of pics showing the painted LEDs. The first pic has an original filament bulb alongside the painted LED E5 bulb to show the size comparison. The lower pic shows the T10 LEDs, painted and unpainted. The paint was enamel from Michael's, a US hobby store. Cost = 85 cents.   | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 302 Registered: 10-2016 |
Patrick, the T10 push in wedge holder bulbs Geoff mentions are what I call wheat bulbs. I never knew these were a T10-base. Live and learn. Brian, are you sure about the E10 vs. E5 and where are you thinking these go, illuminuation for switches or within the gauges? Anyway, I don't mind adding some E10 to my cart while I'm at it. Especially because they won't ship before Monday, anyway. Geoff, I take your meaning on ordering a few extra. Thus, I've added a dozen of the 24577 round-top midget bulbs to the shopping cart. Also qty 10 of the 47561 T10 wedge. And because I have Testors model paint on hand I'll certainly follow your lead, thanks for the advice! In your opinion, have I ordered enough bulbs to have on hand before starting? I don't know how much effort is required to remove the wood parts of the instrument panel but would hate to have to go back in again because I didn't have enough on hand. Anyway, my car is SRX6816 (1969) and I believe it has what you refer to as the Series I dash (with the padded instead of wood lower).  - Tootsie's Series I dash has a padded lower section | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1676 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi John I agree with the numbers you have ordered. Removing the dash panels is easy, but first time you need to be very careful. They can bind to the vinyl around the edges and there may be hidden screws. The procedure for the left hand panel, as you view from the drivers seat, is to remove the two chrome screws at the top and remove it by carefully pulling from the top. It sort of hinges at the bottom. I was told there should be a small woodscrew at the bottom left of the panel. Check for this - it may be obscured by the vinyl. It was not present on my car. Also the rubber finisher on the top of the steering column has to be pulled off. On my car there is no clip - it just rests in place. By this I don't mean the top half of the steering column housing, it is just a small lump of shaped rubber. If it is present on your car you will see what I mean. Pushing the vinyl away from the edges of the wood with your fingers will help to free the panel. If you are lucky you will remove the two chrome screws, a careful pull at the top of the panel and it will hinge down and pull out easily. The center panel is the same technique - remove the two chrome screws and it hinges down. Note you will have to remove the end parts of the chromed air vent pulls. They are held in place with a small grub screw in each, on the underside of the knob. You will need a 1/16" allen key to undo them. When removed, the knob just pulls off. Geoff | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2255 Registered: 6-2009 |
John, Go with what Geoff has said, as his car is of the same era as yours even though yours is older. As miserable as I found dealing with those E10 bulbs (and I have fairly skinny fingers and good grip) the smaller E5s would likely drive me to drink! Hey . . . it's 5 o'clock somewhere! Brian | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1224 Registered: 9-2004 |
How does the dimming of the panel lights work with the LED's. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1343 Registered: 4-2016 |
John, The 2 cars I have worked on all had the third screw at the bottom corner closest to the door of the timber that surrounds the speedo. Just ease the vinyl down in that bottom corner to reveal a copper posidrive screw head. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1679 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Patrick Any colour as long as it's black. I forgot that point - If you fit these LEDs you lose the dimming function. Thanks for reminding me. I should have mentioned it in my original post. Geoff | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1344 Registered: 4-2016 |
Gents, My dash/instrument light that is under the top roll above the vents etc has blown the globe. Do I need to remove the top roll to change the globe, or can I access it just by removing the middle dash facia? | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 354 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, At least on the 1970 RR Shadow you only need to remove the center panel.You remove the two vent control knobs by unscrewing the grub screws that secure them completely. Remove the screws that secure the panel and swing it forward and out. The bulb is easily replaced at that point. Best of luck. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1350 Registered: 4-2016 |
Thanks mate, I will give it a go. Lets hope it is just the globe/s | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 357 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, If you don't have a set of plastic trim tools yet this job would be easier if you had some. They are essential if you don't want to mangle up the trim. I'm not even slightly afraid of mangling the trim and even I have a set. | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 310 Registered: 10-2016 |
I forgot to order the bulbs today. Meanwhile, I'm wondering this; what about replacing the bulbs for the turn signals, back up, and brakes with LED as well? Any reason not to? Any recommendations? Any advice? One other questions, we've been going on about blue but Robert Noel mentioned green, it seems like all recent model cars I've owned used green instead of blue and my vintage vehicles use plain uncolored (yellowish) lamps. Any thoughts? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1681 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi John I take it you mean the actual lights rather than the warning lights. I would question replacing the brake light bulbs with LEDs as they are wired in series with a relay that operates the warning light on the dashboard should a brake light bulb blow. Using an LED would push a lot more current through that relay. I'm not sure if that would cause any damage but it is a consideration. Also if the LED failed, it might still conduct meaning the warning light on the dashboard would not illuminate. I would have thought back up (reversing) lights and turn signals should be ok but I'm not sure. Also, your car may not have the brake lamp failure system in your car. The best thing to do is check out the relevant wiring diagram for your car to figure out the consequences of using LEDs. The dash illumination lights on my 1974 car are blue. I disposed of the blue condoms for the reason Brian gave earlier in this thread - they had become too opaque. Would be interesting to know what color other owners have on their cars. Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1682 Registered: 5-2012 |
I've just had a quick look at the wiring diagram and LEDs would be a definite no no for my car (1974 SRX18501). There is a single relay with two coils, each wired in series with either the left or right stop lamp bulb. The circuit is obviously calibrated so if one stop lamp fails and takes out the one coil of the relay there is insufficient current in the other to keep the relay energized, causing the relay to trip and turn on the warning light. Using LEDs would probably mean the relay would stay on even if one of the LEDs failed. Here's the circuit fragment - sorry about the quality but it does illustrate my point.  | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1232 Registered: 9-2004 |
Just as I thought with mine too! | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 311 Registered: 10-2016 |
Geoff, regarding brake/turn signal lights - my principal reason for asking was due to my hopes of making things a little 'brighter' in back. This, because the overall size of the tail lights is smaller (and offer significantly less illumination) than is the norm for today's automobiles. Anyway, with what you said in mind, I've sought out higher wattage LEDs in hopes they might work by offering enough load to properly energize the relays when they fail (and I presume I can discover this by removing a bulb and pressing on the brake pedal). Anyway, toward this goal I've found 15W bulbs (a bit pricey at $15 each). These are offered in both the 1156 (turn signal) and 1157 (tail/brake) base. http://tinyurl.com/ljhlja4 Will they fit, and will they function properly? Frankly, I dunno but they're certainly cheap enough to be worth trying, don't you think? Especially if because they're significantly brighter they help keep Tootsie from suffering the indignity of being smashed in the rear by a distracted driver who failed to notice the relatively dim OEM turn signal and brake light. This will surely make me quite happy. In any case, your thoughts regarding why they may not work (the point of my asking in the first place), are very much appreciated. If I bull ahead I'll share what I learn. On another front, regarding T10 Wedge base bulbs, I may have found dimmable units - http://tinyurl.com/mff2jpd - and even more interestingly, ledlight.com responded via email with the claim the 47561 units you recommended can indeed be dimmed. Can you confirm or deny they're dimmable? John, who will keep all informed as it happens | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1683 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi John It's only the brake lights that have a warning lamp on the dash. I suspect the turning and rear lights will be ok. Also, if your car has got the brake light warning circuit in it then, as you say, you can always test the addition of the LEDs by removing one and seeing if the dash warning light illuminates. If not and you would like to keep this facility functional you could put a resister in line on the external wiring. The relay is located at the rear by one of the light clusters. I would check it's not running hot when the brake lights are on. As you said, all this is experimental and I appreciate your sharing it with us. The units I fitted are not dimmable. They are identical visually to the 47561s but this was 2 years ago. Maybe they have upgraded them. It will be interesting to hear what your findings are. Geoff | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2016 |
using a clean bit of brake bleeding tube, fits over those miniscule bulbs (E5?) in the dash and makes them super easy to unscrew and change! John, my dash is a slightly later shadow 1 dash than Tootsie's with backlit warning lights rather than round ones. is the illumination on your centre console (emergency flashers) blue hue or normal yellow? Ta | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 362 Registered: 11-2015 |
Here's some sort of voltage dimmable LED that I had on my desk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGvGVMj4MqQ No idea of specs on the thing, but a good voltage dimmable LED is certainly possible. | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 327 Registered: 10-2016 |
Geoff, I only have an email saying they're dimmable. Until I have them in hand and put them on a variable power supply I won't know it for a fact. Speaking of facts, very nice Ross. By the way, I 'still' haven't ordered my LEDs. Been a little busy putting the finishing touches on a couple new products. This means the adverts have to be designed and created, the press releases, as well as the data base entries for the final product (which until now have only existed as components instead of finished goods). Also the bar codes, product photos, descriptions plus all the rest of the details that go on behind the scenes. Good thing it's easy desk work so my back doesn't suffer. Patrick F., that's a good idea for screwing in the bulbs using a piece of small diameter tubing (kind of like using a piece of fuel tubing to start spark plugs in the heads). Smart! | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 77 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Guys I am still not sure if the centre console bulbs should have a blue hue on not? The ones lighting the aircon controls and emergency flashers? I know all the dashboard and gear change display bulbs do. What are yours like? | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1432 Registered: 4-2016 |
Good Question Patrick. Should my car have illumination around the air cond switches? That part of my console is in darkness. I remember reading that earlier cars had lighting behind or around the air cond, hazard lights, & cigar lighter area. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1690 Registered: 5-2012 |
Patrick R - I believe it should have illumination. Your car is a 72 and mine a 74 so most likely are the same. If you remove the center console wood you can get to the bulbs. The pic below shows the lower part of the console. There is a large perspex insert that diffuses the light from the two bulbs around the air con and associated switches. At the best of times this is going to be marginal. Through 40 year old wiring and an opaque blue condom (if fitted), next to no light at all. It is quite possible both bulbs on your car have blown. I found that fitting LEDs greatly improved the situation. I suspect polishing the edges of the perspex may help to further allow the diffused light through. In answer to your question, I would say yes, you should have lighting there. Sorry for the low quality of this pic. It's hard to tell the bulbs from the mounting screws. It looks like there is an additional bulb at the bottom. It has been 2-3 years since I replaced the bulbs so I have forgotten the precise details. The pic does however show the setup.  Patrick F - I have no idea what the color configuration was on cars leaving the factory. My car had a single missing blue condom on the miniature bulbs however this is no indication as to what color the lights should be on the lower console. I have opted for blue LEDs all round, but do not know how well this compares to original. As an afterthought, it would be very interesting to see whether Patrick R's car has the blue condoms on the central console bulbs, when he gets round to checking them. Patrick's car is very original so it would be a great indicator as to what the colors should be. Geoff | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 78 Registered: 11-2016 |
I think I got to my centre console bulbs by removing the side panels in the footwells which are clipped in with door card clips. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1438 Registered: 4-2016 |
Great input Geoff thank you. Patrick, I did take a look inside the removable hatch on the right hand side (my drivers side) but could not see any globes. However, I did manage to fix the non working lighter. Geoff, does the centre wood just clip out? And are they the globes with the brown around them in your pic? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1691 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Patrick On my car I just have to remove the radio knobs and fascia and the wood panel just pulls out. As I recall, the panel hinges against a lip at the bottom, so I carefully pull the top forward and then lift it out vertically. The pic was taken after I first removed the panel so yes, the brown colored holes are where the bulbs go. Obviously I removed the perspex and gave it a good clean before fitting the new LEDs. Geoff | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 79 Registered: 11-2016 |
You are right Geoff. I now remember that I mangaed to reach only one bulb on mine. At the time, taking the wooden facia off was an unknown leap of faith for me so never attempted it! | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 332 Registered: 10-2016 |
Does anyone know off the top of their head how many 1156 and 1157 type bulbs are required for the Silver Shadow? I'm thinking there are two 1157 (brake/turn signal) and four 1156 (two turn signal in front and two turn signal only in back). Or am I missing something? Oh, and what do the small side marker lights take? -- John | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1448 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi John, Are these numbers you are quoting LED'S? | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 333 Registered: 10-2016 |
No, the 1156 is a typical bulb for turn signals and 1157 is a bulb used for both brakes and turn signals. These are industry standard part numbers, e.g. the ones I'd use in any auto parts store. 1156: http://tinyurl.com/l56bhb8 1157: http://tinyurl.com/jwhfduh | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1450 Registered: 4-2016 |
Sorry John, My car runs different back lights than yours. Based on your numbers the front & rear blinkers are 1156 (21w), and your comb tail/stop lamps are 1157 (21/5w) Just check, some cars run offset bayonet or straight bayonet. Front parkers are single contact straight bayonet 5w  The side clearance lamps (and the red door lamps) are capless (3-5w)  I'm guessing your boot lid mounted reverse lights would be 21w, but not sure of the base, as I have not seen inside one) Hope this helps | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 334 Registered: 10-2016 |
Oops, I forgot to account for the bulbs within the reversing lamps. Thanks for the reminder because better light when backing would be nice. Meanwhile, my principal interest in replacing the tail light bulbs is in hopes of making the car more visible when braking and slowing for a turn. This because the turn off into my neighborhood is in the middle of a high speed sweeping bend where speeds in excess of 60MPH aren't uncommon. I've experienced so many close shaves (with being rear-ended), I generally signal well in advance and slow gradually whilst keeping a close watch in my rear-view mirror. Nevertheless, I'm human and sometimes forget so I believe it's prudent to try and improve my odds of being seen. Brighter tail light bulbs would fit the bill since the tail lights of an old Roller like mine are rather small compared to more modern cars. Of course, this begs the question . . . is replacing the OEM incandescent bulbs with LEDs going to actually result in brighter tail lights, or is this much ado about nothing? By the way, I would even consider a rear-window mounted 3rd brake light (if I can add one without making modifications of an irreversible nature). Yes, I know everyone believes these cars are nearly worthless but in my opinion this won't always be the case so I think it's just prudent to try to keep mods reversible. In my case especially because Tootsie seems to be a very nice example of the breed, e.g. I feel a little more of a duty to maintain her original condition (or at least ensure modifications are easily reversible). Finally, do you know off the top of your head how many of each type of bulbs are within a tail light assembly? This because I'm not up to bending over for to disassemble and seeing for myself at the moment. I'm about the place my order and they offer free shipping on purchases over $50 and hose you on shipping if not (as an incentive - $16 to mail 3 ounces of bulbs). | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 379 Registered: 11-2015 |
John, Order some red LED strip with a black backing from the internet. 144 LED per meter is pretty dense. then get a little voltage regulator from the internet. And put the LED right at the top of the rear window glass. I did this on the 81 golf and it's nearly invisible when off but but bright as the dickens when on. I'll try and grab a some pictures later when my wife gets home. The LED's can certainly be brighter, but even at the same brightness because they basically are on or off, no 100ms fade in and out as the filament warms and cools as in an incandescent. This un-natural instant on thing attracts attention so even at the same brightness level they are still more attention grabbing than filament style globes. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1454 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi John, When I first got my car, all the lights were dull inside & out. The 2 rear side red lamps were not working at all. Nor were the 4 door red lamps working. I thought of course there was a voltage or an earth issue, plus old car = old globes. I started inside & pulled the 4 interior/map lamp covers off and found a thick layer of dust inside the lenses. I gave the first one a wash out in the kitchen sink, and wow, bright light. The other 3 were washed and now looked perfect. I then pulled all the external lamps off, and yes they have rubber gaskets, and the reflectors are not much better than alfoil, but they were all heavily dusted and dirty. Plus all the brand/model names moulded into the external lenses all had gunk, or polish in them. I washed out the rear lights, using a small bendable bottle brush, and lightly polished the external lenses, then washed with soap & water and even with the old globes, the lights were as new looking and bright as, the rear parker & blinker, which looked like a dull light inside a tunnel, now had bright light all the way to the edges. I also replaced the old globes with standard new globes, as they all looked original. The dust inside all lenses was quite amazing, and the reflectors were very dull, but it was only the dust. All lights fully disassemble so each part can be cleaned. The non working rear side lights was the result of a crap push in connector that had fallen out each side. The door lamps were not working as the capless globe holders were corroded, a bit of a file with a points file, and all work perfectly. As your rear lights are different to mine, here are some images of lights like yours. looks like one globe (21w) for blinker, and a combo globe (21/5) for the small brake/tail light   Your reverse lamps are these, but I cant find any images without the lens on. 2 screws will reveal all, so easy compared to the tail lights.  | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 339 Registered: 10-2016 |
Ross, that's a fantastic idea! Thank you, Patrick, this has saved me bending and twisting to figure it out myself. I see the doctor again on Tuesday and will query him as to why I'm not experiencing more relief than I have following the lumbar injections of Cortisone. Afraid of what the answer will be. Recall, this has been going on since just before Christmas and to say I'm getting desperate underestimates the situation. Anyway, thanks once again. Finally, does anyone have input regarding my expectation the LED tail light bulbs will be significantly brighter than the incandescent bulbs? | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 385 Registered: 11-2015 |
John, If you color match them to the lens they will be brighter because LEDs emit colored light. X amount of red emitted light at the globe translates into nearly x amount of light past a red filter. With a incandesent globe generating x amount of white light only the red fraction gets past the lens. I know they are cheap, but I might have some left over you could have. I forget what I was doing, but I know I have some in the clever electronics drawer. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1463 Registered: 4-2016 |
John, I don't like the LED lights during daylight hours. A lot of our trucks, trailers & bodies have them fitted now, and I find them quite hard to see as a bright orange, or a bright red during the day. They are almost white, with a slight colour tone to them. At night, they are ok, but I still feel the light from the incandescent globe behind an orange or red lens is brighter & more colourful. LED's have a lens that shine the light pretty much in one direction, where the incandescent globe emits the same light right around the globe its self. You almost need to be in direct line with them to get their full intensity, if you are side on to them, they are almost invisible. Thus why the LED replacements have many LED's to try and do the same job. Here are a couple of videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nMoyg479Dw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q2V_UhRI_c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tbb5SjV48E My opinion is that LED lights are far superior if they are made that way, the reds & oranges are super bright & very efficient. The new day time running lights (DRL) & LED headlights are simply stunning, but they are made that way from the start. However our lights & lenses were designed for incandescent globes, and work so much better with them. No drama about wiring conversions, or voltages etc. As I mentioned, after cleaning the inside & out of my lenses, and fitting new standard globes, I am more than happy with the results. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 391 Registered: 11-2015 |
Patrick, True on the LED emitting on the sides. There is a very wide range of these things and some are better. John, I totally forgot to photograph the VW. It's dark now and the wife is asleep, bit I will give it a go. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 392 Registered: 11-2015 |
John, These are terrible pictures, but should get the idea of what I am on about with the invisible LED strip install. Here is how the LED strip looks installed.  Here it is on.  | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 352 Registered: 10-2016 |
Patrick, lots of learning with these videos. Especially how poorly some LEDs perform. Whilst I'm sure some are better suited than others I believe I'll leave well enough alone regarding 1156/1157 incandescent bulbs in the tail lights (for right now) despite really liking how much more quickly LEDs light up because milliseconds matter in a rear-end collision avoidance. As for using LEDs in the instrument panel, I plan to move forward with this. Ross, the use of LEDs for a 3rd brake light continues to intrigue me, thanks for sharing your thoughts on the subject. In other news, my pal Keith paid me a visit over the weekend. He did the vast majority of the work allowing me to mostly stay on the ground and supervise (as if). Anyway, the end result was conduit and wiring run to the 2-post lift so that it's working. We also ran conduit and wire to the air handler, compressor, and phase converter. I need to go buy crimp-on terminals for 8AWG wire because all I have on hand is suitable to 10AWG wire and no larger. Now all that remains is making the connections and the AC system will be ready to vacuum down and charge with refrigerant - yipee! Meanwhile, because of Keith I was able to largely do the simple stuff, e.g. bend the EMT tubing, hand him wire and tools, etc. while he did the hard work of climbing up and down the ladder. For some reason this creates a lot of stress on my lower back and makes it hurt like crazy. Anyway, because of his generosity and willingness to help, a job I have been postponing since mid-December is now almost complete while allowing me to avoid the real pain. His visit was a blessing, believe me!  - My pal Keith patiently wires the air handler unit | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 104 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Geoff I have been trying to remove the centre panel wood on my SRH 19689 1974, but it does not seem to want to pull out. I removed the 8 track volume controls etc. I am very nervous about forcing the issue, for obvious reasons. I had no problem with the dashboard panels. My question is, Geoff, might yours have originally been fixed from behind? Anyone else had this panel off? Thanks | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1696 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Patrick I think you are very wise to exercise extreme caution when removing these panels. The panel on my car was not fixed from behind, but there was a clip at the bottom, hence the need to lift it out vertically once the top of the panel had cleared the radio knob spindles. I have scanned in an extract from the drivers handbook which may be helpful. Sorry about the poor quality of the copy.   At least this will give you confidence that RR fitted just one clip at the bottom of the panel. A way forward may be to try pushing the leather surround away from the panel with your fingers to free it off. Geoff | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1558 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Geoff. First chance I've had to spend time working on the car. Been either driving it, or away traveling with work. I'm afraid my centre stack does not have any globes at all. Here are some pics from this morning.   | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 398 Registered: 10-2016 |
Patrick, Could it be that your Rollar has the ventilation control illumination provided from above, as does Tootsie?  | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1446 Registered: 5-2015 |
LED stop and tail bulbs will mean that ever time the brakes are used the stop bulb failure warning lamp will alight. In the boot on left hand side is the relay it is a simple rewire here that will disable the warning lamp for bulb failure. Because LED bulbs are very reliable and 50k hours, the brake light warning thingy is not really needed. just pointing this out.  | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1559 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi John, Yes it does. Remember I posted the below pic to show you the light below the top roll when you asked what it was? I was just checking if mine had the illumination around the switches as some other Shadows have. But it doesn't, bugger!!  | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 401 Registered: 10-2016 |
Patrick . . . I don't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday and you expect me to remember that 'you' told me about the light? Remind me of the model year for your Roller? Early like mine as best I recall, right? What's the cutoff for series I to series II? Was it with the engine displacement increase to 6.75L? | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1560 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi John. I'm a bit the same mate. Mine is a December 71 build, delivered in January 72, so It has always been classed as a 72 model, and yes she is a 6.75L Series II was much later. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1713 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Patrick (R) Sorry this is a bit late. Here's a pic of my central console, minus the wood veneer. Apologies also for the poor quality of the pic. My car is a 74 SY1 and shows the differences to yours. I've arrowed the two bulbs. The light is diffused by the perspex surround. Even though I have cleaned up the perspex, which had become discolored around the bulbs, it's not very effective, even with LEDs fitted. I suspect the method used in the earlier cars was much better.  | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1568 Registered: 4-2016 |
Thanks Geoff. Looks like I need to rely on the small oval light above my middle vent mate. Amazing how many things, even little things like this are so different on all cars. |
