| Author | Message | ||
     RODNEY PEACH Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 8 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hello All, I would like to know if I will need a special tool for dismantling the rear discs ? if so where would I be able to purchase one. Thankyou Rodney | ||
| John Dare Grand Master Username: jgdare Post Number: 196 Registered: 12-2004 |
Hello Rodney. Could you kindly confirm your location as I might be able to assist, rather than see you incur the cost of buying an expensive "factory" type tool (if readily available) or expend time in making a tool that you may never need to use again. | ||
| RODNEY PEACH Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 9 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hello John, I live in Spain I have a ShadowII and a Silver spirit ,so what I was thinking is if it was able to buy a tool or make one for further repairs . Is it a complicated tool?they will rent me one in U.k but if it was'nt to difficult tomake one! what do you think John? Regards Rodney | ||
| John Dare Grand Master Username: jgdare Post Number: 197 Registered: 12-2004 |
Despite reports about how these procedures have been performed in remote outposts, I am reminded of one instance whereby the owner/ repairer suffered a serious personal injury. As a consequence, I am again concerned about liability, and of course, your own well being. Most repairers of heavy commercial vehicles (incl.perhaps, some truck rear AXLE specialists) would possibly have the equipment to safely disassemble the hub and the heavy duty torque wrench required to replace the nut upon reassembly with the new disc etc. I regret that I am unable to offer anything further. | ||
| RODNEY PEACH Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 10 Registered: 12-2003 |
Thanks John for you help the only reason that I wanted to do this is I put my foot on the brake and I have a wobbling feeling I must have a disc out of shape.There is a place here that has a machine that skims the discs on the car but I don't know if this is advisable? but I will see if somebody in a garage can help,but I did think it had to be a special RR tool to do the job? Thanks again John | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 394 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Rodney, I have kept out of this discussion up till now to see the quality and scope of information provided to you however I believe your request has not received the attention you wished. In my opinion, the information you need is as below: 1. The entire rear hub unit has to be disassembled to allow replacement of the brake discs [I would be interested to know if they could be "skimmed" on the car given the access conditions]. 2. Disassembly of the yoke from the stub axle requires torque application in excess of 550ft/lbs to undo the locknut and a special separation jig to pull the yoke from the stub axle taper. THIS IS THE MOST DIFFICULT PART OF THE WHOLE PROCESS. 3. Once the yoke and axle are separated, disassembly is straight forward. 4. While the hub is apart, check the inner seals and if they are the felt pad type; purchase the lip seal conversion kit from Crewe Parts for use inreassembling. Replace the rear wheel bearings whilst you have the hub apart as a precautionary measure due to the work involved should they have to be replaced in the future. For the same reason, I would fit new brake discs if the existing discs are more than half-worn. 5. Reassembly is relatively straight forward however a properly calibrated torque wrench/torque wrench + multiplier capable of applying at least 550ft/lbs of torque is required for the locknut [USE NEW LOCKNUTS - DO NOT REUSE THE OLD ONES]. The torque specification applicable are as below: pre SRX1916/CRX1937: 450/475ft/lbs SRX1916/CRX1937 to CRX6544/SRH5156/CRX6571: 525ft/lbs All cars after CRX6544/SRH5156/CRX6571: 500 ft/lbs SHADOW II: 490/510 ft/lbs Note: Torque figures are for locknuts/abutment faces lubricated with "Molytone 265 X2/123" or equivalent grease. 6. If the half-shafts have not been swapped over within the last 100,000 miles [160000Km]. Swap the left and right hand shafts after checking the rubber boots very carefully for cracks/splits/ deterioration and replacing if necessary [post message for help if replacement is necessary as there are some tricks you need to know.] Check outer universal joints and replace if worn. Check service/hand brake pads and replace if necessary [keep old backing plates and take to brake specialist for bonding of new friction material (ESSENTIAL - MUST BE SAME COMPOSITION AS FRONT PADS) and keep for future use.] | ||
| John Dare Grand Master Username: jgdare Post Number: 198 Registered: 12-2004 |
Hello Rodney. I must agree with the above, however it does not appear to solve your local problem as to HOW you can (safely) disassemble the hub ( without a dedicated tool) see point 2, referring to a "separation jig" etc. As I indicated previously, it is possible that truck repair depots MAY have tools, which, although not of "factory" issue, might be able to perform the same function. Provocative and unnecessary comment removed by moderator (Message edited by david_gore on February 24, 2005) | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 340 Registered: 4-2003 |
I have done this job albeit years ago. The biggest problem I had was holding the assembly while doing up/undoing the nut. I finally made up about a 10mm steel plate that the hub could be bolted to and that in turn was bolted to a bench the original of which was used for assembling the Titanic. I borrowed a 600 LB FT tension wrench which was as much as I could lift and 5 foot long and did the job. The other difficulty was getting the hub off. They have been known to need nearly 100 tons to move them and I remember I wore old underwear for the operation. When they go it is suprising how high you can jump. I remember that the old York Motors often had hubs that had spun their Woodruff key and required highly specialised equipment to recover the bits. And these were hubs that were assembled originally by the Factory. So I would be doing my own if at all possible!! | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 341 Registered: 4-2003 |
A couple of extra thoughts. David's recipe for success mentioned not using the 'nut' again. I doubt whether you could. I am sorry I don't have one to show but it is especially made with an integral flange at the inner diameter. When you have had your hernia repaired after tightening the thing you belt this flange into keyways machined into the stub axle. They didn't want them to come undone!!! Yet they did. For millionaires the real solution would be to scrap the whole assembly and fit hubs designed for the turbo cars which are splined! And no I don't know whether they fit!!! | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 562 Registered: 4-2003 |
Like for so many jobs on these cars, there are no special tools required as such despite the references in the manuals. You just need damn heavy duty conventional tools. To remove the nut, in each case I have done so before removing the hub or caliper. Apply the brakes firmly while you undo the nut and it's not too difficult (the second time anyhow as always) if you have that large socket spanner. The hub flanges are best removed with the hub assembly removed from the car, and using a press. Incidentally, I first learned of the loose hub flange nut syndrome from Bill 20 years ago in amazement. He was repairing a Shadow at his former home in Canberra. The Shadow had a horrible vibration from the rear end on load at any speed. The hub nut had come loose and the Woodruff key had broken. Even then, loose still meant using the QE2 to turn the nut free. Never reuse that nut. Following up on Bill's notes, yes the Turbo's splined shafts are far better. They were adopted across the range eventually once the frame contracts for the older supplies had run out at Crewe around 1990. It is a far more elegant design, and is not prone to the earlier system's woes at all. Like all SZ cars from chassis 8401, the Turbos use the unbeatable Lobro constant velocity joints, a great improvement over the earlier SZs and all Shadows which have a Detroit ball and trunnion joint and a hardy spice universal joint instead. However, the Turbos have uprated Lobro units. There are a few added bonuses with the splined Turbo arrangement. I have dismantled the hubs on a Shadow and a Turbo. The Turbo is a cinch. The Shadow dismantling is like having all your teeth pulled at once. Also, the splined hub flanges come off by hand, whereas, as noted, the others are best done with the hub assembly removed and using a press. With the splined hubs, the assembly need not be removed, but as it must be loosened anyhow to remove the caliper the saving is minimal. Splined hubs can be, and are regularly, retrofitted to Shadows, but egads it's expensive. You need new hub drive shafts, hub drive flanges, half shafts with Lobro CV joints, and final drive output shafts and flanges. What's more, the half shafts must be shortenened and one splineway recut to suit the narrower track of the Shadow. One for the Nice To Have bin. |
