Post Number: 1480
|Posted on Wednesday, 23 November, 2016 - 03:49 am: |
There is too much play in my steering. Most of it is coming from the steering box. I am intending to carry out a major service of the entire system this winter. I had originally thought of removing the steering box and cleaning and resetting the adjustment on the workbench. However, on reading what a major task removing the box is, which includes raising and supporting the engine, I have decided to carry out the work in-situ.
My question: I intend fitting a filter as recommended. Does anyone know of a suitable unit?
I'd be grateful for any hints or tips on this work.
Final comment: Whenever I contemplate a new project, my first port of call is Tee-One topics. What a fantastic resource this is. I've said it before, but again, thanks Bill.
Robert Noel Reddington
Post Number: 1199
|Posted on Wednesday, 23 November, 2016 - 05:41 am: |
The steering box is adjustable as are all the steering ball joints.
The filter goes in the return line and is nominal pressure ( call it 50 psi max ) A petrol filter for an injection system would work.
The return line is held with worm drive hose clips which demonstrates how little pressure there is.
When resetting stuff always go lock to lock with engine off and wheels off deck to feel any tight spots.
The ball joints can be adjusted with out removing them. But try greasing them first.
LHM is good in this type of system.
Check the pipe work behind the rad Shell. The cooler is again on the low pressure side. The oil comes out of the box around the cooler then back to steering pump.
All straight forward stuff.
i agree with the comment about tee one topics its generally in there somewhere.
Post Number: 1486
|Posted on Friday, 25 November, 2016 - 04:28 am: |
Many thanks for your comments. I am definitely convinced now that an in car service is the way to go.
I particularly note your comment - "go lock to lock with engine off and wheels off deck to feel any tight spots." The problem of tight spots as you adjust the steering box is a big issue and the reason I considered getting the steering box on the bench. This "in car" method will be much easier.
Post Number: 1681
|Posted on Friday, 25 November, 2016 - 04:51 am: |
Geoff, if there is too much play in the centre and tight spots elsewhere it's a worry.
Check the column UJ's
Also I've had boxes with so much sludge in that they will lock up randomly. Very tricky to clean out on the car.
I would try without removing the box from the car, but if you do need to take it off, It is not hard to support the engine once the car is jacked up and supported. Some wood on the sump and a jack to hold it up. Ensure your jack is working well and does not creep down.
Post Number: 1487
|Posted on Friday, 25 November, 2016 - 05:49 am: |
Thanks for your advice. I will remove the box if I have any doubts about it re: tight spots. The good news is FS have reconditioned ones for $765 should I need one. This is much less than I feared this unit would cost.
Post Number: 1493
|Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2016 - 07:18 am: |
Here's an update on what was to be my winter project. On jacking the car up with both front wheels off the ground I was able to do an assessment of the steering and found there was no play in any of the steering joints. All the play at the steering wheel was due to the steering box. I was able to adjust this, take up the slack and the great news is there are no tight spots. The only problem I had was figuring out how to access the adjusting screw that resides on the top of the box. I found the best way in (for me) was from the side. The pic below shows it's position.
The locking nut is 5/8" and the allen key for adjusting the pin is 3/16". I found there was not enough clearance to insert the allen key as the exhaust pipe gets in the way. Rather than remove the pipe I cut the short end of the allen key down from about 1" to 1/2" in length. I was then able to squeeze it in.
I have not road tested the car yet as I wanted to grease the steering joints and came across the button nipples for which I need an adapter. This will be purchased tomorrow. Having spent half an hour jacking the car up, making it safe with 4 axle stands I didn't want to go through the whole procedure again tomorrow. It can stay on the stands overnight.
Thanks to Bill Coburn for all the great info on Tee-One topics, and Brian for the resource file pointing out where I can buy the adapter (Graingers).
It's interesting how easy it is to get used to excess play in the steering. As Bill notes in Tee-One topics "I watch in amazement as owners steer their cars of varying ages through dense traffic and often at high speeds with a steering wheel that seems to be swinging faster than a Tatts Lotto number range!" I have a theory on this. I believe that drivers automatically compensate for the wear in their steering by subconsciously monitoring the camber of the road. At the moment I live out in the sticks and most roads are narrow, two way with central double yellow lines. The sides of the road have ditches of varying depths from 6 inches to 3 feet. So you have to be reasonably precise in steering these cars along these narrow roads, particularly with speed limits of 50mph. That's 100 mph closing speed with other cars, which would put a nasty dent in your expensive radiator grille, should you ever meet one head on. No problem with all this, however I found at night with the headlights of oncoming cars blinding me slightly, the Rolls would rather alarmingly steer itself. The reason being, I could not see the camber of the road clearly and therefore not make those subconscious adjustments to the steering. That's my theory anyway. The cure is to take out the play in the steering.
Will be interesting road testing the car tomorrow.
Robert Noel Reddington
Post Number: 1205
|Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2016 - 10:13 am: |
I have driven large vehicles with slack steering boxes and after a few miles I have compensated for it by vision and seat of pants. so you are right in your and Bills theory.
night driving in Dorset has its dangers and nowadays I keep on the wide A routes as far as possible and keep speed down, 40 mph max. Most stuff can be done in daylight.
We await your road test results
Post Number: 714
|Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2016 - 10:15 am: |
We are eagerly awaiting