| Author | Message | ||
     Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1442 Registered: 5-2012 |
Is it possible to fit a series 2 exhaust system to a "series 1" car? The series 1 engine is higher compression and is not encumbered by lots of early, mechanical attempts at emissions control. So improving the breathability of the engine, by using the series 2 exhaust, would unlock the full power of this engine. I was wondering what the consensus is on this. Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1443 Registered: 5-2012 |
Actually, thinking about it, I can answer my own question. The answer is probably no. The rear part of the exhaust system would probably be dangerously close to the fuel tank. I believe the tank was re-cited behind the rear seats in the series 2. Also, I think that although one of the accumulators was moved to the other side of the engine to make room for the later steering column, it may also have been moved for the upgraded exhaust system. Geoff | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 276 Registered: 10-2010 |
Hi Geoff, It's a bit more complicated than Series 1 vs 2. See: http://rrtechnical.info/SY/spare/Other/qrgs/TSD5681.pdf Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2270 Registered: 4-2003 |
Geoff, Whatever you do with the exhaust, I suggest you get it fabricated in 10/12 gauge T304 stainless steel tube. The reason for the heavy gauge tube is it makes a much quieter exhaust appropriate to a R-R vehicle. If you are looking for better performance, I would suggest a 2.25in dia. dual pipe/dual exhaust system with a removable balance pipe just in front of the first muffler [to facilitate removal of the transmission when needed by eliminating the need to remove the exhaust system first]. IMHO back pressure from the standard system strangles the high compression [9:1] UK standard non-emission engine. | ||
| Eric Molenaar New User Username: aussiewraith78 Post Number: 6 Registered: 06-2021 |
Hello all, I am after some advice please in your recommendations regarding a new complete exhaust system for LRH32854.Do i get one fabricated by a old school exhaust guy or do i buy the complete system from flying spares or Intro car and get it shipped to South Australia. I suppose it would be worth buying new hangers and olives or just let the exhaust guy work his magic. He quoted me about 2k for a stainless system and if it lasts 43 years like the one on the car now its money well spent. Thanks in advance, Eric. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 708 Registered: 11-2017 |
Work his magic? Most of the time the results are far less than magical. The olives should be replaced since they are iron and will be pitted and no longer usable when removed. I replaced mine with stainless olives. Best advice...buy the original factory exhaust and olives. You can easily install it yourself or have a competent shop do so. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 791 Registered: 05-2016 |
Kelly Opfar at Britishtoolworks in Utah can manufacture stainless steel olives. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 709 Registered: 11-2017 |
Yes, he made them for my 80 SWII | ||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 441 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Well my Camilla's fuel tank (currently almost empty) is in the floor of the boot on the right hand side. Unless I read things wrong, did'nt the series II Shadows built for the home market have the higher compression engines? Graham. | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 338 Registered: 10-2009 |
My Bentley T SBH10630 was built for a London customer and has a 9:1 engine and a label on the the fuel flap recommending 100 Octane petrol. It gets 97 octane and is driven with regard to 50 years of service. Alan D. | ||
| Eric Molenaar New User Username: aussiewraith78 Post Number: 7 Registered: 06-2021 |
Thanks Larry and Robert, I will email Kelly and order the olives (how many does the system have) and contact flying spares for a replacement system as well as those weird looking spring hangers...I wonder if my mother in law would sneek it in her hand luggage when she next visits us in Australia when they finally open up the world again. If all the bits are new im going to have a crack myself but i guess getting the old one off is going to be the hard part. lots of wd 40 to loosen 43 year old bolts.. Cheers Eric. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 710 Registered: 11-2017 |
Go to the Bentley Heritage site to see the part numbers for the olives and Kelly will make them accordingly. Are the hangers shot? They can be pricey to replace. ADVICE: WD-40 is not a penetrant. It is a protectant and is useless when trying to wake up frozen hardware. Best bet is to mix acetone and ATF fluid in a 50/50 mix. Apply and let it sit for a day or two and re-apply. Another is PB Blaster and my favorite I Kroil. | ||
| TimNorth Unregistered guest Posted From: 109.153.206.29 |
If you decide to buy a system from the UK get it from ServiceCentre not FS or Introcar because the likelihood is that they get theirs from SC as do P&A Wood. SC exhausts are very good. http://www.rrexhausts.co.uk/ (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Eric Molenaar New User Username: aussiewraith78 Post Number: 14 Registered: 06-2021 |
Hi Robert, This was the product I was referring too as PB blaster is not available in Australia.  | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 727 Registered: 11-2017 |
Yes, There is a version of WD40 as you indicate, but regular WD40 does little to release frozen hardware. I have found Kroil, PB Blaster and better yet, a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF does the job. Shock and thermal cycling also helps. |
