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Nigel hawcroft
New User
Username: nigel

Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 25 January, 2005 - 07:18 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Sirs, Silver Shadow 2 SRH 36390
Continuing the Saga that may result in a Summers daytrip to Blackpool with my Loved one,and the Girlfriend as well {Careful}
I have tried to operate the Air conditioning System on cold mode and to my horror the thought of recently purchased 99,s{Ice cream cornetwith cadburys flake inserted}dribbling onto the velour
interior has caused some concern
After a process of lamp tests, little pieces of wire and converstions it would appear that the thermal fuse by the alternator has blown
I have been quoted 73 pounds Sterling for a replacement
Are there alternatives?
Or will my fingers burn
Maybe the Melting Ice cream will sooth the Pain
Or how about a Japanese Geisha fan for the girlfriend to waft me and the Ice creams
Excuse my puns but it stops the tears
yours sincerely as always
Nigel
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 376
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 25 January, 2005 - 09:23 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Nigel,

These are a standard item available from most automotive spare parts suppliers - most important thing is to know the exact rating of the fusible link. Buy two for the following reason:

Replace the link and with the engine running at 1200+rpm; turn the A/C on and see what happens. If the link blows again; you have a short circuit in the clutch actuating system which requires rectification and the 2nd link is to use when these repairs are completed.
[Why must the engine run at 1200+rpm? This is to ensure the system voltage is at specification {at least 13+Volts}. This is necessary to avoid excessive voltage drop and subsequent dramatic increase in current draw (thus blowing the link) if the battery is in poor condition.]

If the link remains intact but subsequently fails; the probable explanation is an intermittent short circuit in the clutch or intermittent voltage drop due to alternator/regulator/battery problems [show your travelling companion to use a digital voltage meter hooked into the cigar lighter to monitor system operating voltage whilst driving to see if this reveals fluctuating voltage].
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 373
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, 20 March, 2005 - 03:45 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Put my aircon on to-day SS11 and the thermal fuse has blown.
Do these blow if the gas is low in the system as well as the voltage surge, drop.
Would like to get it running to check for bubbles in the sight glass.
Is there a way of testing the system without useing a fuse ie bridgeing with resistors etc.
Is there other faults that would cause this?
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 393
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 29 March, 2005 - 05:35 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just reading the headlight saga,and was most impressed with Martin Taylors answer to the probs.
It has now got my brain thinking,can i use a thermal cut out for testing the SS2 air con faults without blowing thermal fuses?
If so how would i connect up?
The location is by the altenator.
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 681
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 29 March, 2005 - 06:02 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Pat,

If the gas charge becomes partially low, the gas temperature may soar. That causes the thermal cutout switch to close, applying current to the thermal fuse. Consequently the thermal fuse will melt to prevent compressor damage or worse. The melted fuse isolates the compressor clutch permanently.

A thermal switch alone would allow the compressor to cycle until it self destucted, maybe at speed causing an accident. A circuit breaker would encourage an owner to induce the same. The logic is that if the compressor overheats so severely it should be immobilised permanently until properly attended to.

This normally only occurs after an extended period of declining aircon efficacy, a period of storage, or a leak causing loss of gas. Usually, there is a warning long before the system packs up.

You can always bridge the fuse or connect 12V direct to the clutch solenoid as a test for a very short time, but usually the cause is lack of gas and not a faulty heat switch. It's by far safest to test for leaks and rectify any, recharge the gas first, then test the system, and finally replace the thermal fuse once everything is in order.

Replacement thermal fuses are available cheaply at any aircon shop.

RT.
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master
Username: pat_lockyer

Post Number: 394
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 29 March, 2005 - 06:38 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Richard for the workings,I will gas the old girl up, now would be a good time to go over to the later type of gas.
A trip to the specialist me thinks.