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Richard Greene
Experienced User
Username: benzjag

Post Number: 20
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Thursday, 01 September, 2016 - 03:07 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The trunk lock solenoid on my 78 Shadow does not work. I am getting a constant positive on one of the four red wires at the solenoid. When I lock the doors one of the other red wires has positive but the trunk does not lock. Is there a way to bench test the solenoid? I see only four red wires going to it. I am assuming the metal bracket that holds the solenoid is the ground???? HELP!

Richard
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ross kowalski
Prolific User
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 112
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Thursday, 01 September, 2016 - 12:03 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Richard,

Solenoids are not polarized so the wire color is meaningless.

I just found a picture on ebay. If it is two solenoid coils stuck end to end, then the four red wires are two to one solenoid (lock) and two to the other (unlock)

Make sure whatever you are testing them with makes 12v 3A or so and has a fuse like 3A. + to one wire and - to the other and it should move.

Also the solenoids are designed to be momentary so don't leave them energized for more than a second or so in testing. (remember what happened to Kennedy's B17 in WWII)
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1625
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Thursday, 01 September, 2016 - 04:57 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I don't think there should be a permanent feed.

Can you slide the mechanism left and right easily?

There should be one feed when the lock switch is pressed, another when the glove box button is pressed. (It's possible that the unlock switch is a switch to ground . . But I don't think so. I'm pretty sure we modified them for customers who wanted them to open on the door unlock circuit by just bridging them across at the A Post).

Can you feel the glove box switch click?

To test on the car. One red from each solenoid should go to one connection which should be earthed.
Check the earth is ok. Test light from batt positive.

Undo the other two reds.

Use the live test light on each loose red. It should get continuity to earth through the solenoid.

If ok. .
Now take a feed from battery positive and briefly apply to each of the loose red wires in turn.

The solenoids should magnetise when energised.
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Richard Greene
Experienced User
Username: benzjag

Post Number: 21
Registered: 12-2012
Posted on Thursday, 08 September, 2016 - 12:55 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

FIXED!

The problem was someone had incorrectly plugged the gray/pink wire on the trunk release button (in the glovebox) onto the wrong terminal which caused the trunk lock solenoid to have constant power when NOT pressed. This caused the solenoid to get extremely hot. Not sure why it didn't ruin the solenoid. This was after almost 2 days of taking the solenoid out & constant testing!

I did learn how the trunk lock solenoid wiring works! There are four red wires to the solenoid. The middle two wires (in the black connection box attached to the metal bracket holding the solenoid) are ground. The two outside red wires are positives (one positive from the driver's door lock switch;the other outside red wire from the glovebox switch).

Hope this helps someone who has a problem as I with the trunk door lock system!

Richard
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ross kowalski
Prolific User
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 117
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Saturday, 10 September, 2016 - 11:32 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Richard,

It is amazing that the solenoid didn't overheat. Keeping them energized usually burns them up after a couple of minutes.

I would suggest buying a lottery ticket ASAP.

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