| Author | Message | ||
     Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 447 Registered: 5-2007 |
I just received a new set of keys from the UK ordered from the VIN number for SRH20280. As most Australian Delivery Shadow owners know, the key blanks for our cars were unique in that the valet key only does doors, boot and glovebox and the "master" key only does ignition. The master key is an entirely different blank and neither key will even insert into its opposite's lock. UK cars use the same blank (Silca RR5 or equivalent) for both. Unfortunately the records relating to both the master blanks and patterns and the valet pattern held in the UK, in no way match what was delivered in Australia. Neither of the keys I received fit the car. Does anyone know if the locks were altered locally by the dealerships? Are there any extant records? In the meantime perhaps owners of Oz delivery cars should be cautious about ordering keys from company records. Also the "Yale" blanks being advertised are not in fact Yale: I received 2 cheap Silca blanks and 2 JMA cut keys. I know nothing about JMA, but I've had experience with Silca keys, which appear to be made out of tinfoil and last about as long. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1553 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Jeff, I've had Aus spec cars in the UK and they already had RRA keys fitted so ir was a factory fitting I believe. Usually the difference between the keys is an extra fin on the RRM keys. I'm guessing that RR kays have two fins removed - so if you took the correct RRA key to an engineer they should be able to mill the surplus fins off. Probably a model engineer or watchmaker may be your best bet. I have never been able to imagine why a separate ignition key would be useful . . . Answers below please. Cheers, Paul. | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 448 Registered: 5-2007 |
It was never useful Paul - it was some mad idea of the government busybodies at the time; I assume for their usual nonsensical reasons. Possibly theft or "safety". Alongside the sunvisors that don't swing to the side (designed by an Australian) because for a period our Government didn't like chrome hinges in the cabin, the black gear & indicator levers and the smaller speedo, one gets the impression someone in Canberra had a set against Crewe. By the time of the Spirits none of this was still in place as far as I know. The ignition key blanks have Silca No.RR2R and the original Yale key is numbered RRA 1572. It is a radically different shape and as I mentioned is designed to not fit the doors. Unfortunately I don't have the original Yale valet but it is the Silca RR5. The cut they sent on this is close but has a different cut towards the head end; could probably be filed as you say, but as the advertisement said original Yale blanks I'm just going to ask for a refund - I can get Silca keys here without the UK30+ delivery fee. I only ordered these because I came across something on the net about an ex Yale employee having found some blanks or was remanufacturing them and thought I could at least get a Yale "valet" key for my doors etc. Not to worry - I just thought I'd let other Oz delivered owners know there's a problem with relying on the records. cheers, Jeff | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 258 Registered: 4-2015 |
Jeff... Although it is not a solution to your specific problem, my understanding is that the valet key operated the doors and ignition, but NOT the boot or glove (cubby) box. This allowed the valet to operate and lock the doors, but restricted access to places where the owner could secure personal items. The master key obviously works in all locations. On all my cars, the blanks are the same but there is something extra or deleted that makes the difference between the two. A knowledgeable locksmith would probably know, at least the one here in my town is, so the knowledge is out there. You are correct about the availablaity of Yale blanks. The aftermarket substitute (quality on par with Yale) that my locksmith uses is "Ilco" from Canada. My recollection (costs you nothing, and probably what it is worth!) is that the valet key will actually insert into the boot or the cubby lock, but just will not turn. Of course, none of mine are AUS delivery so may not apply there, but I am sure the theory applies: You want to keep the nosey valet out of your private areas of the car... the cubby box, and the boot. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1554 Registered: 6-2006 |
It is a very strange idea indeed. Email me your key number and I'll see if I have any here. At a guess I would say if you complain they will refund and let you keep the key. Get a local locksmith to wizz it through their machine. Although JB may want it back. I have found the records are often better than the person cutting the keys  | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 449 Registered: 5-2007 |
Yes Christian - I think it was the theory our local road czars objected to. Hence the repurposing of the valet key to not fit the theory. They really played havoc with Crewe cars coming downunder for a while. The Australian designed sunvisors are hinged at the rear vision mirror and hang on the flimsy fibreglass A pillar trim - which subsequently sags. A truly bad design - even I can remember more high school Archimedes than to put the fulcrum of a lever at the non load bearing end. I've replaced mine with early Shadow ones. Paul, unless the valet key number is in the handbook -I'll check tomorrow- all I have is the Silca number RR5, having lost my original the last time the NRMA dropped the car off the back of their truck :-( | ||
| Patrick Ryan Prolific User Username: patrick_r Post Number: 255 Registered: 4-2016 |
Interesting topic guys. I still have the original Yale keys for my Shadow. As described above, my valet key won't go into the door locks at all, and will only work the glove box and boot. However I sometimes have to jiggle the boot lock to work at all. Must be worn or something loose? Mine does not have the electric boot lock through the central locking or a glovebox boot switch, so I guess it's worn out? | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 261 Registered: 4-2015 |
Now wait a miute here. Seriously?? Do I understand that Australian delivered cars ACTUALLY have a valet key that works ONLY the glove box and trunk? That is the exact opposite of the theory for the rest of the world, that is EXCEPT the glove box and boot. What on earth good is a key that ONLY works the glove box and boot? There must be a mistake! | ||
| Patrick Ryan Prolific User Username: patrick_r Post Number: 258 Registered: 4-2016 |
Sorry Christian, After reading all that I even got myself confused. My car is originally a UK delivery in 72 and arrived in Oz in 75. My Yale valet key opens the doors and operates the ignition only. It wont insert into the Yale barrels in the glove box or boot. | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Prolific User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 263 Registered: 4-2015 |
Patrick... Thanks for clarification. I just wanted to be sure. From some of the comments in other threads as well, it seemed that the Australian demands on the way RR built their cars might just have included such a requirement! | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 450 Registered: 5-2007 |
Yes Christian and Patrick, you are right to be confused. On new cars delivered to Oz in the '70s we got an ignition key and a different key for doors, glovebox and boot. Truly petty regulations to no rational purpose. To make it more confusing the ignition head is round and the other squarish - the opposite to UK cars! Patrick, with the boot,glovebox and doors there's probably something loose -easy enough, if fiddly, to fix. However the keys may be worn but the problem is usually dirt. I used a horse syringe and pure alcohol to flush out the barrels (use lots and repeat) and then a small amount of graphite powder (any locksmith will have it) on the key. Keep working the key and graphite till things turn smoothly. Don't drive your car till the alcohol has evaporated or PC plod might get suspicious of the smell coming from your glovebox ;-) | ||
| John Kilkenny Prolific User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 241 Registered: 6-2005 |
Here are the two Yale keys. Note the different cutouts. The one on the left is the valet key which only fits the ignition and doors. The one on the right is for the owner and adds the boot and glovebox.  | ||
| Patrick Ryan Prolific User Username: patrick_r Post Number: 259 Registered: 4-2016 |
Good advice there Jeff. The pure alcohol I keep in the fridge now  Of interest in Australia in the 40's and earlier, there was no key barrel in the drivers (right hand side) door, as it was illegal to enter the car on the "traffic side" One had to use the one and only lock on the left door and slide across. | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 451 Registered: 5-2007 |
Patrick - don't waste the drinkable stuff! You'll need it after a day fiddling with your locks. I bought a 2 litre tin of 99% pure propanol from RS Industries (they deliver) and I use it for everything - it's the best stuff for working with Silastic and cleaning up the inevitable mess. Vet syringes (or any large syringe) are easy to find. Ask a chemist or a vet. With the door locks (and the boot): if the bezel on the outside moves at all when you turn the key it means the holding nut inside the door has come loose. Once you get to it (easier with the window out but not impossible in situ. I took it off, along with the notched spacer (finger notch cutouts on this spacer face towards the car interior!) and put an O-ring between the barrel and the internal face of the door before replacing the spacer and nut. This does 2 things; increases the friction holding the barrel to the door and deforms slightly into a little notch cutout in the door and one in the barrel- holding things tight. The holding nut is about 1 1/4" and you might need a nudge with a shifter to loosen it after 40 years. Be aware when retightening that the door is aluminium not steel and apply pressure cautiously. Finger tighten then a nudge with the shifter should do it. There should be no movement of the barrel when you turn the key. And of course we all know not to spray WD40 or any other sort of dirt magnet into or near a lock barrel. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Prolific User Username: patrick_r Post Number: 260 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Jeff, Again great info. One of the club members has this exact issue, and I may be able to assist better now with this insider info. My door locks are fine and work a treat. Its just the boot lock unfortunately that only needed a little jiggle to turn, but now I just leave it unlocked. The barrel feels tight, the lock is tight it all feels good, just wont turn unless i'm holding my tongue in a certain way  | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 454 Registered: 5-2007 |
Here are the Australia Shadow Keys. On top the Ignition (Yale and a Silca copy). At bottom is the Door/Boot/Glovebox "valet" key.  |
