| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Greene Experienced User Username: benzjag Post Number: 11 Registered: 12-2012 |
One of the steel brake lines that goes directly under the center of my 78 Shadow is leaking. I am assuming I need to take it off and have a new line made? How difficult is it to remove? My local NAPA store has brake lines with fittings in various sizes. I am also assuming they will not have the correct fitting? Is this correct? Is there a consensus the Dot 4 brake fluid with the caster oil mixture is acceptable when the new line is installed? As guidance appreciated! As you can tell, I am new at this on a RR! Richard 1975 Shadow RHD 1978 Shadow II LHD | ||
| Jonas TRACHSEL Frequent User Username: jonas_trachsel Post Number: 85 Registered: 2-2005 |
Richard When getting a new brake line made you MUST specify Cunifer tube. Never use copper tube, too weak for the high pressure system of your SS. Use the "search" function and you will find quite some more info on Cunifer in this message board. Jonas | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2016 Registered: 4-2003 |
Also search "Kunifer" and "90/10" Copper-Nickel alloy as these terms have also been used when posting information about Shadow brake lines. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1884 Registered: 6-2009 |
Kunifer, Cunifer, KuNiFer, EZ-Bend, and the myriad other names it gets called is easy to source from anyplace that sells brake line. This stuff is an absolute joy to work with compared to mild steel. It bends and flares so much more easily and it is corrosion resistant. When I last bought a 25-foot coil in 2012 it cost the princely sum of US $28.37 and it appears to be slightly less expensive these days. Brian | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1885 Registered: 6-2009 |
Richard, If you suspect that you will be potentially having to replace other segments of line as time goes on it's well worth the money to invest in a decent flaring tool and teach yourself how to make your own lines. It doesn't take much practice to get the technique down. Here's but one example on eBay and I loved this style because, if the occasion presents itself, it makes it much easier to flare lines that have had a segment cut out in situ rather than having to pull them off the car. If you're doing the most typical flaring where you have a bubble flare with a brake line nut behind it just order a Bubble Flare Nut (3/8in-24) for 3/16in Brake Line. If you need to splice two lines with male bubble flared ends together there are in-line adapters that will accept each, making it into a continuous line. I had the fun of needing to do this in the engine bay. Brian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2021 Registered: 4-2003 |
This tool and a tradesman's rotary tube cutter are essential if you intend doing any work on the brake lines. There are compact cutters available which are indispensable when cutting tube "in-situ". Cannot speak highly enough of the benefits from using both of these tools. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1886 Registered: 6-2009 |
David, Is what you refer to as a "tradesman's rotary tube cutter" different than the tube cutter (which in this case is painted red) that's included in the kit I linked to? That's the style that I used. Brian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2023 Registered: 4-2003 |
Brian, Yes - especially the compact sized cutters for use in tight places when the tube/pipe is not easily removable. I have 2 UK Record brand compact cutters which are now 20+ years old and no longer available as far as I am aware. The smallest "mini mini" cutter was invaluable when working underneath DRH1434 as only a small amount of clearance was needed to fully rotate the cutter. The reference to "trade quality" relates to the quality of the materials used in the cutter especially the cutting disc, the roller and axles. The cheap "hobby" cutters sold by the big hardware discounters are a waste of money in my experience as they wear quickly and do not cut square and cleanly. A classic case of "you get what you pay for". | ||
| Richard Greene Experienced User Username: benzjag Post Number: 12 Registered: 12-2012 |
Thanks to all for extremely valuable information. Lucky this time, my local NAPA store had the pipe in almost the exact same length. I will try to install in a few days! I know it is just a matter of time when the other lines will start leaking! |
