Silver Shadow I Parking Lights Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Silver Shadow Series » Silver Shadow I Parking Lights « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Yet to post message
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 1
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Friday, 15 April, 2016 - 12:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good Morning.
First time poster, long time reader.
Pat Ryan, from Penrith NSW.
Seychelles Blue SSI SRH12255
I have enjoyed reading your sometimes funny posts and replies. I have learned much as well.
My Silver Shadow (SRH12255) & I have been in the NSW RROOC for just on 10 months now, and it has been a whole lot of fun.
It has been great entering my car in last years Concours and was awarded an encouragement award in the touring class.
The club is a joy to be a part of.

As a mechanic I have been able to do much work on my barn find Shadow and it has been great learning about this wonderful machine.
I also have a 1925 Chevrolet Superior K touring car, so I like to say I have on one side of may garage he most simple car made by man, and on the other side the most complex car made. As I said it's been a pleasure.
The reason of my title:
My Shadow has intermittent parkers. Headlights are ok, dash lights are ok.
Sometimes they work all week, then I will check them one day and nothing.
The fuse is good and not open circuit as I have tested the fuse and it has continuity across it when the parkers are not working.
Someone suggested the main left & right connector blocks in the firewall. But using the jiggle test, this does not seem to bring non working lights back to life, nor working lights to flicker.
It is now doing my head in a little
Thanks for reading.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Omar M. Shams
Grand Master
Username: omar

Post Number: 565
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Friday, 15 April, 2016 - 02:30 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Welcome Patrick.
For the non-Australians - can we assume that parkers are side lights front and rear?
If so - are all 4 dead when they they die or only the rears?
Thanks
Omar
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
New User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 2
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Friday, 15 April, 2016 - 02:40 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks For the welcome & reply Omar.
All 10 lights. 4 forward and rear facing lights, the 4 side lights and the 2 number plate lights.

Thanks
Pat.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nick Adlam
New User
Username: crewes_control

Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2015
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 12:58 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Patrick

It's possible one of the multiplugs on the other side of the fuseboard could have a bad connection. They're easy to get to. Disconnect the battery first, then give them a good clean.

The firewall connections only affect the front parkers.

This might sound daft, but is the fuse definitely good?- power getting across the whole fuse holder?.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1511
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 07:15 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi there and welcome :-)

Have you managed to check the fuse whilst the lights are not working?

Has you car got the parking light (left and right) switch?

If it is a glass fuse with the soldered ends, often the soldered joint becomes poor or intermittent.

The wire will look perfect and most of the time it will measure fine with a test light , but now and again it will loose continuity. Swap with another or resolder the ends.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
New User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 4
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 07:39 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks for your input Nick & Paul.
Nick, I will check the plug at the rear of the fuse holder this morning it's a great place to start.
Paul, yes it does have the round left/right switch and this works perfectly well all the time.
I will swap the fuse over even though it tests ok. You are right some apparent good fuses do have issues.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bob Reynolds
Grand Master
Username: bobreynolds

Post Number: 386
Registered: 8-2012
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 10:01 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

While you are at the fuse, switch the lights on and check whether 12v is getting to the fuse or not. And then check that it's leaving the fuse.

If not, it's most likely the switch is faulty.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

John Kilkenny
Prolific User
Username: john_kilkenny

Post Number: 234
Registered: 6-2005
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 10:12 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Another cause of failure can be the individual fuse holder not making a proper connection with the fuseboard printed circuit. Next time it fails wiggle the fuse holder and see if it makes a difference. It may need re-soldering.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 970
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 11:44 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Welcome to the mad world of old Royces and Bentleys. You are welcome to talk about your other vehicles and even washing machines.

I have 2 cars a mint 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4 litre petrol 180 BHP. with 2 WD or _on road 4WD low gear etc and LSD diff.
It's quick from 20mph to 70mph. 120 mph speed limiter. The brakes are shite though. And the build quality is bad so bad that one can see bolts through the bonnet panel gap how can they make a car with a bonnet that is 1/2 inch to short!!!!. And no 5 injector electrical wire just fell out of the plug. I paid £1500 in 2005. The only thing that has gone wrong was the wire it wasted 5 mins fixing it. I have complained to Jeep but they didn't reply. The trees have only 6 mm left, I forked out 300 quid ten years ago and expected the tryes to last longer than ten years. I have spare tryes for my Shadow that are 30 years old. Also the reg no is K881 ACK or Kack. I have Crohn's Disease. Which is ulcers in the digestive system. I some times poo imy self. Leather in cars is a must for me. The poo feeds the leather. I don't allow others to sh*t in my cars only me. Only joking any body can have a sh*t n my cars. No only joking I wear a nappy and don't shi*t every where. Nappies are like having a cushion to always sh*t on, only joking at the moment I am in remission and firing on all 16 cylinders problem being I am actually a V32 engine.

Me and my Shadow just wafting down the avenue,
When the clock strikes 12 it's time for dinner.

My Shadow SRH 17768 1974. I brought the car in 1989 and because I have been in the motor trade for 50 years working for the police, home office and the Vehicle inspectorate. Also run my own company reconditioning engines gearbox axles and any thing else where the was an earner. From this I became a £ millionaire. I paid after wheeling and dealing £2000 for a mint Shadow. Do you think I paid to much?. My brother has 1.9 million and I have a fiver bet that I will catch him up in two years.

The Shadow is at the moment hors de combat due to some paint scabs. The total are of the 15
Scabs is 48 square inches. Shocking stuff. Hopefully tommow I will get a whole day to fix.
The car is Black and a grime band whom I have played with said if Dracula had a Rolls Royce. So Dracula it is. The jeep is called Kack. Before the Jeep I had a Merc 204 D mini bus which was reg no F 290 POO. That was called POO bear. Rust killed the van. It lasted 8 years I tortured that van by driving across ploughed fields flat out. I live in Semi rural Dorset near Bournemouth.

The Shadow was Peacock blue with grey Leather and burgundy piping and wedge blue 80% synthetic 20% wool it is undetectable as not 100% wool Wilton and it is rot proof and used for Marine applications. I painted the car taxi cab black because peacock blue is hard to touch up or match and taxi black was £6 a litre. It doesn't get any cheaper. Repairing is very easy and I use taxi black aerosols £3 each after clear coat which is £7.50 for 500 ml aerosol. An aerosol will do 4 doors. I use Hycoat acrilic. The very best clear coat on the market, their silver high temp stuff makes exhaust system like new. I make my own including mufflers. I am running 2 and quarter dia pipe. The front silencer is standard and next 2 I have not fitted. But the rear tail pipe muffler is treble the size of the stupid RR one. It gives a almost silent burble until one selects 2 nd gear and floors it. Then the car really starts to get quick. The rear suspension on my car is bang on the correct ride height. The steering although steering box is good enough to get a wiggle on when going in fast and flooring it towards the apex. I got to 80 mph once in 2nd. My mate who reckoned Shadow aren't quick and don't handle got a real shock when I put the car into a round about at 50mph stood on the brakes just missed the kerb by an inch and sling shot the car out of the roundabout and then down a straight bit in top gear at 110mph with me shouting at the engine for more power Jermy Clarkson style. My wife was sitting in the back laughing and shouting stop stop you will kill us all she wound him up right up. His knuckles were white. He though that I was going to roll the car. Only sh*t motors like Ford do that. I put the F in Ford. Dukes of Hazard eat your heart out. 99% of the time I am in town which is 30 mph in top gear wafting along listening to blues music like Howling Wolf, Smoke stack lightening. My car has an emergency Fender Statocaster and 30 amp which is proper shire horse watts and will make ones ears bleed also a mouth organ so I can play with the music while driving. William Tell overture, the gallop is a favourite. On of my mates sometimes does the percussion on a small electric drum machine with his brother on a Casio organ syntheser. Traffic jams become fun. Went to Dorchester by the time we had got there he had just finished playing Bach's and Fugue, quiet loud. He swung the beat by Rush and drag timing. So I played Pachbels cannon in D but half way through I went from 60 beat a minute to 180 and played shred using the whammy bar to slide from pitch to pitch. I went full volume to 12, 11 is old hat now. I have a violin with a pick up and can make sound like a cat jammed in the fan belt. Another favourite is That spoon that spoon, and Nina Simone My baby cares for me. I do the piano solo on the axe. Others in traffic jams get entertained for free, I draw the line at stripping but getting out of the car and giving the axe some welly does pass the time. Frig the green light we are having fun.

The car always starts first time runs so smooth I use the gen light to notify that the engine is running and the car has never ever not never no how ever failed to proceed. I just drive around enjoying Dorset and use as family work horse and even load cement in the boot.

Best car in the world apart from mpg which because I only do 1500 miles a year in the Shadow and 1500 in the jeep, last year total mileage was 188 miles dues to illness and I couldn't be bothered driving and mates gave me lifts. I just give them a bit of go go juice money. Absolutely the best car in the world. The best Rolls Royce ever made is the the SY series of cars. No electronics and simple but time consuming to work on. But it's a hobby so time doesn't matter. In 27 years of owner ship the car has been to Rolls Royce once. A mot tester hit a Ford Fiesta at 1 mph with my car. He blamed me. I was in the waiting room picking my nose. As punishment for not saying sorry my fault. I took the car to a Rolls Royce specialist who used to work for RR. All his staff are ex RR. I told him to do his worst so he fitted new bumper and rad shell and resorayed the whole car. And charged £6000 to the insurers. Cheeky beggar gave me a Jag and didn't connect up the mascot alarm. I had to spend 30 secs plugging in the wire I disconnected to shut the horn off. The mot tester threatened to beat me up if I didn't stop shouting at him. So I said if you do I you will lose your job, and my 3 sons and 2 grandson will come down and seize the mot testing station, also Adam who is my eldest best mate for 40 years is 22 stone and 6 ft 6 and is a night club bouncer who likes fighting because he always wins and has hand alike dinner plates and a long reach. He often helps the local police out on the club scene. His mere appearance stops any agro.
The boss just laughed in my face, so I told any body who was interested and the garage is now in debt which is going to close him. It's taken 10 years but won't allow people to talk me like that. He so frigging stupid because at the time I worked for the Vehicle Inspectorate and have a warrant card with powers of arrest, which allowed me instantly to shut a Mot resting station indefinitely. But because the regulations hadn't been broken I let it go, but I did notice the mess around the Mot lift and I could examine the records, and I will find something wrong how ever petty. But my boss who is a government minister would think I am mixing up private with job. So I let the bloke go. He still does not understand how close he came to having his arise in a sling. Last year I asked him for a free Mot. He refused and told me to F off. No talking to some.

Apart from that episode the car has been a pleasure.

Absolutely any fault on a Shadow and this forum knows how to sort it out at the cheapest price that gives the best results meaning fix once only. So any problems just ask.

If you wish to turn the car into a fire breathing drag car we know how to and will give you encouragement when in the small hours the stupid bolt won't und

Crewe only really know about newest cars not old bangers like ours. We know more than Crewe.

Time for coffee and a Creme egg. The doctor is threatening me with hospital if I go below 12 stone, I am at 11.5 stone but he weighed me with a lump of lead flashing in my pocket. I got down to 8 stone ( 5ft 10.5 inches ) and I felt quiet strange like
I was not in this world, the doctor told me I was dying. Strangely I didn't really care. But the event has changed my personality for the better, I know so much more, it's like a slow understanding. 64 years old. I hope to get a telegram from the Queen. So the Shadow had better stay ok for the next 36 years.

RR once said that if one purchases a RR car it will be the only car one needs to buy ever.

I want a Shadow estate. These are from specialist coach builders and a mate had one ( John Entwhistle bass guitar The Who) sadly like a lot of my mates has passed on.) The car has been on sale for quiet a while at 20k I did think of offering 10k. Because who says it's worth 20k, obviously the vendor. A car is worth what a buyer is willing to pay and what the seller is willing to sell for. John car is very very well done. Except the rear suspension Rams and turrets are in the way. The turrets need cutting out and air bags fit instead, thus give a flat wide estate floor. Plus the hydraulics for ride height are removed. The air pump goes in the spare wheel. The boot floor is removed and replaced with a lid to get at the spare and pump like a XJ6 or Range Rover. It's about 10 hrs work and easily DIY able. I did think of doing this to my Shadow if the ride system goes pear shaped. My car had no aerial and soon no mirrors, tv cameras instead. £150 for 3 tv camera and 4 inch screens and wiring etc. Some people like to have an explosion in a car accessoriy shop. So tacky.

Good luck and good night dreaming of tomorrow. 6 am I am off to Poole harbour, I am going to push a mate in because he said my axe playing sucks and suggested I actually bother to play a guitar. All in good fun, a lot of Poole harbour is only six inches deep at low tide and 4 ft at high tide so he just gets wet. I will take spare clothes and a towel with me. I aren't that cruel. The temp is about 25c in the day now.



I have had offers of £12k for me Shad. But that would leave me Roller less, which is not cricket old chap. I can't turn up to see people in a Jeep they might think I am not serious. It's a bit like wearing a good suit and proper £60 Oxford shoes that are have patina it gives the illusion of old money not new rich. I guess because I inherited some of the money,so it's old money. I never actually spent it. The cheque went into the bank and got invested in BT shares which at first done well but then slowed up. So I invested in a high risk mine company who have made me 110% for the last 15 years.

I have LPG on my Shad to save money. I don't really worry about the environment because nature will sort it all out herself. Just as long nothing bad happens before I die. The people left will have to take their chances the same as you and me. So why worry about things one cannot control, besides the UK has only a 2% foot print so cutting that half is 1% of the worlds foot print. Every 6 months a coal power station is opened in Asia, which totally negates the Shadows exhaust pollution a Million fold. Why even bother trying to cut emissions except stupid diesels in cities and towns. Diesel cars to me are pointless. Smooth petrol engines for me.
Last week I used £5 of petrol. Terribly expensive you know.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
New User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 5
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 12:56 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

We have a winner.
Nick was spot on.
The moment I touched the bottom (closest to the drivers seat) plug on the underside of the fuse board click click from the parking light relay. Pulled it off, checked for corrosion (none) plugged back in an Sweeeeet.
Nice work Nick.
Also thank you to all input from a great bunch of guys that I have seen for ages are so very happy to help and share knowledge.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nick Adlam
New User
Username: crewes_control

Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2015
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 01:31 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Awesome Pat

What I also suggest is to pull all those plugs out one by one and spray them with Inox/WD40. Keeps them happy. Where's theres one bad connection, others will be lurking. I also replaced all the fuses- cheap reliability. There are zillions of plug connections on these cars- took me hours to clean and spray the whole lot!. The result, no gremlins- even the wildest Brisbane downpour doesn't faze anything. Always do one plug at a time.

Bob- as an ex mechanic and auto elec by trades, I know and hear of your highs and lows with different makes. I pretty much suffered them all- from Fiat to Ferrari, with all the usual suspects in between. Jeep electronics!- yippee!, brings back a few nightmares.
The Rolls is a great hobby car- can work on her in my leisure without a boss with his stopwatch.

cheers
Nick
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
New User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 6
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 03:54 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OMG Robert
I loved reading your story, but I had to have a break in the middle and drive my Shadow to the local pub at a place called Warragamba to have 2 beers with my son (he then drive home) so I could get ready for part 2!!
Oh and the parkers worked all the way.
Part 2 was awesome.
I will look forward to your next instalment.
Thanks for the extra info Nick.
I will carry out this work in all plugs tomorrow.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
New User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 7
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 03:57 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks to John & Bob as well for contributing.
Great input here gents.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
New User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 8
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 16 April, 2016 - 06:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Out of interest guys
Here is a pic of my fuse panel.
Phil Sprosdon told me the blue card between the fuses is still factory original.
What a joy a well maintained but still a barn find can be.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 975
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 08:26 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

At the pound shop I brought 3 x 3 " dia LED lights intended for cupboards or where ever. 3 dry cell AAA bats and 3 bright white LEDs. One under the bonnet one by the mirror and one in my jeep. It saves interior lights battery drain. The fuse for the lights has a switch which cuts the power to the interior lights, so when I go dogging the lights don't come on when I am wan*king.no not really..

For parking use push bilke LED lights. A £1 each from pound land or Oz 2 dollar shoppe stick magnets on back with blue tack.

I have fitted fairy lights to my disability scooter. Fairy lights as parking lights is cool.

My car has 2 batteries. The engine starter battery 75amp hour and 750 CCA but in the marine world it's 1100 Marine CA. £36 plus vodka and tonic.
The second battery is a 10 amp hour sealed lead acid SLA.
The battery is 6 x 4 x 6 inches high (£12 plus vat) and lives behind the SLI ( starter lights and ignition). The interior lights clock and radio ( radio memory) are worked from the SLA. The fuse is 3A. The battery is charged when the gen light goes off via a 5 pin relay. The circuit goes off via a 4 pin relay controlled by accessory position and ignition on. Contact chicks away. My spell checker changed it to chicks from chocks. Chicks sound better.

SLA can be as big as 5000 amp hour, which won't fit in the boot and cost loads of money. But it will definitely start the car and kill you if you short it out. Frying tonight.
The SLA was fitted today it took about ten minutes. Simple isolate the fuse and solder a 3A fusible link to a bit of copper on the fuse dead side. Copper brake pipe fits. £0.01 is the cost of the copper. This has solved complete having to reset radio and clock when battery switch is off. Plus I have a old motor bike side car side lamp with red back and white front stick a few LEDs in inside and 3 dry cell U2. Last for years. A clip over a window and shut the window. The clip is best made nice and flimsy so drunken theives don't break something
My forehead head lamp has 3 U2s in series on a thin wire like a miners lamp. It's seriously bright. The bats were AAA and went dim after only 2 hours. The bats lost their edge. The U 2 will last I guess for a year.
Xmas led lights are silly cheap and a source for LEDs.

If using 12v five LEDs in series with 1000 to 10,000 Ohm 1/4 watt resistor will protect the very expensive LEDs from wrong polarity. The lens could be any clear plastic bit of rubbish half piant red with nail varnish stolen from the wife Avon stuff is good. I use their stuff and I smell quite nice. I like the strawbury or petula shower gel a bottle lasts a fortnight only £5. For 2 bottles to do seat piping and coach lines £4. Which I thought was a bit expensive.

Note a SLA is designed to work upside down or whatever.

Charging using the car alternator and diode will under charge the battery so every three months charge for 12 hours at 2amps or the battery will fail in a year. SLAs have a 10 to 20 year life. Even a 5 Amp hour jobbie will work. The 5A hour one was £20????

Diode split charging will charge the SLA a 0.6 volts less than the SLI charge rate. Battery volts have to measured down to 0.01 volts to get the true picture. Illuminated Digital volt meters that run from battery volts are about 1 square inch and cost £5. Get 2

They use about 10mA and can be just left on Must be close to battery. Fit next to charge socket. The charge socket goes dead with battery switch off. So must be connected direct usIng ear phone wire so that if shorted the wire just burns up quick leaving a safe system remotes door locking thing will also disconnect the battery via a 400 amp relay if the locking is powered by the SLA. But the relay is a lot of dosh.
20 x 20A relays in parallel will do the job and are a pound a hand full from the bone yard. Halfords want £7.50 each.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 976
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 08:30 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jag E Type lights are Off, Dim and Flicker. Lucas Prince of Darkness.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 13
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 09:26 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

You are a man of many ideas that have been put into practice Robert.
I have a Lucas isolation switch in the boot, however it may only be used once every couple of months as the car is driven nearly every weekend.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1169
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 11:52 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick

I am curious why you use your isolation switch so infrequently?

I use mine whenever the car is garaged, as a safety measure against electrical fires. I know the risk is very small, but I like the security it gives.

Geoff
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 15
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 12:36 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Geoff.
I know this sounds funny, but I have total faith in the electrical system.
In Australia all of our old local made cars and trucks all used Lucas electrics.
I have been working on these cars and trucks (and now my SSI) since I helped my brother work on Holdens and Fords since I was in primary school.
I have never seen an issue.
But Geoff
I know you are spot on and I do agree with you that it's a simple and quick procedure to just open the boot and click.
I guess if I look deep down, it comes down to the still original and un touched Kienzle clock with second hand.
It pains me to re set it every time I do isolate the car.
Yes silly I agree but I guess it's some underlying OCD issue that comes out.
The clock loses about 1 minute a week, so when I do have to tweak it, it is in the direction of operation. I don't like turning time pieces backwards.
Again probably sounds a bit OCD.
I also have a 25 Chevrolet Superior K touring car, and when we have a number of functions or drives with this car, I do isolate the Shadow.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1170
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 01:40 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick

I absolutely get it now. It took me a while to get used to my clock showing the wrong time. I am not immune to the OCD issue myself, but have just gotten used to it, preferring to isolate the car instead.

I have pondered running the clock off separate batteries, but I guess it would be quite a big project, relative to the gains, and the batteries would need replacing frequently in any case. I did read of an owner who runs a 3 Amp fuse in parallel to the isolator switch, which offers a lot of protection and keeps the clock going.

As I said, I guess ultimately I have just got used to the wrong time being displayed.

Geoff
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 16
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 02:56 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Geoff.
Thanks for "getting the picture" so to speak
Robert explained in early entries here some ideas regarding keeping the clock powered.
I picture the clock like a Silver Shadow.
When it's active it will run for ever.
When cars are neglected and stored the long inactivity destroys the Shadows systems including the clock.
What I believe destroys clocks is the slow run down of voltage powering it. As the number of months pass bye the voltage drops and the clock struggles to keep up thus very slowly burning out to overload due to running an electric motor on low voltage. And of course as the clock is low tech, and I would assume no internal cut outs for voltage, she would struggle possibly down to under 6 volts. What a slow death.
Then when the car is charged or started, the cycle begins again.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 17
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 02:59 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

As an added bonus gents.
The light in the middle of the dash under the top of the dash roll has begun working again.
I assumed this was powered via the dash lights, but as they were working, I assumed the globe was gone.
What a surprise to see it operational.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nick Adlam
Experienced User
Username: crewes_control

Post Number: 11
Registered: 12-2015
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 03:38 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Pat, it's amazing what comes to back life when you start digging into the electrics.
I pulled the door cards (trims) from mine, cleaned up the dodgy connections then went ballistic with the spray grease on all the mechs inside. The result- really nice working windows and locks. Love the big "THUNK" from the locks- scares the hell of passengers!.
Slow windows and locks are a bugbear with these, understandable when 35-50yrs old.

Honestly, we're 99% safe with leaving our electrics powered permanently, but my OCD just wouldn't let up. As an ex auto elec, I've seen some burnt out horror stories- from bodged bangers that probably deserved it, to an $80K Chev Impala restoration that was poorly wired by incompetence. The Chevy went up due to the main start cable abrading then "welding" to the chassis from engine movements. Big N70ZZ 4WD battery was in the boot- masses of heat, everywhere!. Our Silver Shadows are configured the exact same and while rare, aren't completely immune to this either!.
Was it you Geoff who had power cable to engine block shorting issues?.
Another side-benefit to an isolator. If you see the unthinkable happening, you can kill the power. Will befuddle thieves too!.

Bob has a good idea with his small batt protected with a 3A fuse. Love those Prince of Darkness jokes. Still, it's good to see that Lucas can produce some nice parts to quality specs in our cars.

Sorry if I harp on about elecs- guess it's still in my blood after all these years.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1171
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 04:10 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Nick

It's interesting you point out OCD works both ways. One in wanting to keep the clock going and the other in worrying about a fire.

I did have a bare wire close to the engine block - well remembered on your part. I found the wire that connects to the starter solenoid was frayed where it passed through a clamp on the side of the block. I suspected this may have been causing the clicking starter motor problem. I taped the wire up but found no change, so realized although the wire was bare as it left the clamp, there was no leakage. It does show the wires can get frayed after all this time, but in this case it was only live on turning the ignition key, so would have caused no risk. I eventually traced the clicking starter problem back to a faulty starter relay.

One question I'd like to ask about electrics is how do the professionals fit new runs of wire? Do they keep them separate from the loom or do they re-tape the loom to hide the new run of wire?

Geoff
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 1975
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 04:19 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

"One question I'd like to ask about electrics is how do the professionals fit new runs of wire? Do they keep them separate from the loom or do they re-tape the loom to hide the new run of wire?"

Isn't this why cable ties were invented???
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 20
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 05:40 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

It's always good to listen to experts such as you Nick.
Auto electricians are a wealth of knowledge, and one who is expert in Shadows is worth his weight in gold.
Agree.
I looked at many cars with terribly slow windows and non working or worse still disconnected electrics.
I have a friend with a beautiful shadow, yet people trying to assist, simply disconnected things, rather than fix them, so this lovely Shadow has so many options that re not working.

Funny thing I found while looking for my car, was that nearly every car looked at, the back passenger side window was unoperational. Weirdest thing ever.
Yes you are 100% right regarding the shadow central locking, I've heard quieter rifles!!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nick Adlam
Experienced User
Username: crewes_control

Post Number: 14
Registered: 12-2015
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 05:44 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff, it depends on several things- the fault, the application, the customer, full restoration or just repair, wires taped or in tubing, make/model, etc. If running one or two new wires alongside a taped factory loom in an old car then it's a judgement call really. As long as the job is neat, looks original and is well insulated/secured. I often like to open up and look inside, especially the ign and start circuits or if the wiring is in a harsh area and not a hassle to unravel. The loom looks better afterwards too. I hate ugly "rat's nests" under dashes, engine bays, etc, and prefer to nip a potential issue in the bud before becoming a highway FTP!. Possible "Sailor's Disease" can catch on though, but it's better to be safe.

Cable tie fan here.

Ohh, I'm not truly "OCD" but safety and reliability are majors in my books.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nick Adlam
Experienced User
Username: crewes_control

Post Number: 15
Registered: 12-2015
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 06:15 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Pat, these cars' electrics need exercise- my rear windows were both on the slow side going up, but at least everything worked- my previous owner was a good chap. The vent/aircond actuators also need a workout now and then. Good to cycle the whole system once in a while. Screeching motors means dry bushes. Most are easy to remove, a few are a hassle. engine or diff oil are best for bushes. Give the brushes and commutator a clean while you're at it.

Disconnected stuff is a bodge, really. Makes you wonder what else was let go. These cars deserve better.

Whats awesome about our old machines is that almost EVERYTHING is repairable and restorable, with parts available or make your own. Even the CAV regulator (new transistors) or the Scintilla thermotime switch (neat little gadget) can be repaired if you're keen. Relays and switches can been be opened and contacts cleaned with 2000 wet-dry then wiped with a clean cloth. Be careful not to wear through too much of the thin silver coating. Once that's gone, it's all over bar the shouting, so to speak.

Inox (Oz only, I think) protects electrics longer and better than WD40 and is a proper, quality lubricant for your odd jobs. Silicone-free means it won't wreck any paint touch-ups done in the future.

Cheers
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 23
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 17 April, 2016 - 07:34 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good advice Nick.
I have a monthly reminder in my phone with a check list to cycle everything even the seats every month.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Patrick Ryan
Experienced User
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 25
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 18 April, 2016 - 08:31 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gents,
Here is an image of my still original clock.

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Please quote Chassis Numbers for all vehicles mentioned.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action: