| Author | Message | ||
     Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 586 Registered: 5-2009 |
Got the left-side axle off this afternoon. It took longer to get the Car jacked up and prepped than to actually remove the axle. Once I got the rear blocked up, then removed the left-rear wheel, it was all clear. Thankfully all the internal gubbins seem in great shape despite being dry for no telling how long ( the boot was torn). A good cleaning and protective oil of everything will hold it until Monday when I can use the shop press at work to remove the pin. If I can wrest the boot on, smooth sailing from there forward. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1406 Registered: 6-2006 |
Randy, I guess you are taking about the rear drive shafts boot. Do not remove the pin. Boil the boot and stretch it over. I am sure there are instructions on here somewhere or on Bill Coburns write ups. Get boot nice and warm by standing in hot water. Grease everything make sure your stretching tool has ZERO sharp edges including any tiny nicks. Shaft held tightly in a vice. Stretch away. Modern bots are much more stretchy. I haven't split one for years.  | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 587 Registered: 5-2009 |
Thanks for this information: I knew about the boiling and stretching but I thought it was referring to stretching the boot over the ball, not the pin. Not removing the pin greatly simplifies things. What about the boot clamps? I had to cut the old wire clamp off because it was rusty. The new clamp supplied by FS us a worm-drive clamp which is a flat band. Is the flat band all right? | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 401 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Randy when I was doing my boot replacement some time ago Paul Yorke gave me the same information that you now have and I found that It wasn't as daunting as it first seemed and yes the flat steel band is fine good luck. Richard. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1781 Registered: 6-2009 |
Randy, It appears that the "hose clamp" style band is what's been being used for a very long time now. One boot on SRH33576 is original and uses wire while the other is much newer and uses what look like a very small and a very large hose clamp at the respective ends. Although one doesn't need to do so often (if at all) it's also handy that one can "unbuckle" this style of clamp much like a belt does and put it back together with relative ease. | ||
| Hubert Kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 178 Registered: 3-2012 |
Randy, from memory you will need 125ml of appropriate diff oil whem boot is replaced. If you can obtain a 50ml medical syringe, this may aid you to top up same, as I found ir difficult to top up in narrow space. Hk | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 402 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Hubert Happy Christmas from North of the border I do mine with a small oil can with a flexible spout also handy for doing the carb linkages. Richard. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1783 Registered: 6-2009 |
It is a pain to get something into the space available to fill the trunnion joint/boot. For those of you who have anyone in your lives who you know colors their hair, ask them to keep the applicator bottle after their next couple of applications. These things are almost the perfect size for doing this job and can hold enough to do it in one long squeeze. Hold on to whatever you use since you should be checking this yearly. The oil will slowly leak into the differential/final drive unit over time. Brian | ||
| Hubert Kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 179 Registered: 3-2012 |
Hi Richard, have a good Christmas also. I had the Rolls up North last August in Hilltown for my brother's wedding and on to Rosatrevor and Newry , fabulous place. Hk | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 590 Registered: 5-2009 |
Well the boot tore before I got a decent bind on it. Order another and try again. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 403 Registered: 4-2012 |
Randy sorry about that I have done quite a few of these in the past it is essential that the boot is boiled and then left in the hot water for perhaps five or six minutes then coat liberally with red rubber grease or washing up liquid use a broad blunt instrument using the top of the pin as a pivot prise the boot over the pin hope this helps. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 591 Registered: 5-2009 |
I have a round bar with a tapered end which fits the pin end perfectly. I was greased up and on the way when it tore. Ordered another from FS. One of those things you know. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 601 Registered: 5-2009 |
Got the new boot on this morning (2nd try). I pressed the pin out. What's the big deal? That went really good. I had help: we heated the boot in boiling water, and we tried a round pin to try to get the small end started on the ball; did not seem to work. My helper said "Let me have it" and he grabbed the big end and pulled it inside-out and over the ball, then turned it back around, in about 10 seconds. We pressed the pin back in and got it very close. I will make the measurements at home and adjust as necessary. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1409 Registered: 6-2006 |
Surpised you had any difficulty if you took the pin out. It should not be difficult with the pin in once the boot is fully softened and lubricated. Hope the pin centring goes smoothly | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 602 Registered: 5-2009 |
Got the pin centered to about 0.004" difference which is within spec of 0.006". Proceeding with measurements and reassembly. Thanks everyone! Couldn't do it without you! And have a Merry Christmas! We have a lot to be joyous about. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 604 Registered: 5-2009 |
Addendum: it occurred to me that I could shift shims from one side to the other to make up for the fact that I do not have the pin exactly centered, and thereby center the inner end of the half-shaft although I have the trunnion pin within the specification of 0.006 inch. Does anyone think this is necessary or even advisable? | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1414 Registered: 6-2006 |
The idea is to keep everything balanced. I do not know if it will make a noticeable difference being slightly out ( vibration wise)but I doubt it. I don't think shifting the shims will do any harm but I don't remember seeing any with unequal shimming. I do know that the pins are almost impossible to recentre, (so you did well to get it so close), which is why everybody stretches the boot over instead of pushing the pin out. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 605 Registered: 5-2009 |
The Factory must have used a fixture to press the pin in to the perfect position. Also, there is some press-fit assembly lube on the market, but the Factory manual does not mention using it. The issue is the pin tends to jump rather than move smoothly. The manual cautions against using heat to facilitate assembly. I wish for some elaboration as it is pretty standard practice to warm the female part and perhaps chill the male part. Anyway no one seems to have any of these shims. I ordered two from FS 0.015 inch. I could have some made at substantial expense but I doubt it would be worth it. BTW they are 9/16 inch id x 15/16 inch od. My joint has one 0.012" and one 0.018" on each side as found. |
