| Author | Message | |||
     richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 314 Registered: 4-2012 |
Well where do we start, I have done this job on my own Shadow 1 and found it doable but this Shadow 11 is a b...h of a job three of the bottom bolts are assessable and the back one is nowhere to be seen, Have any of you Shadow 11 owners or Professionals a system that works with minimal dismantling thank you in advance. Richard. | |||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 142 Registered: 5-2015 |
Can you access the nuts from underneath and going up the convertor housing and going forward a bit. Would taking the starter motor out help. | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 315 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Bob thanks for the input the car is a 1980 Shadow 11 these bolts are the original crewe bits a previous owner had replaced the B side but he hadn't tightened the bolts very well and then he had stopped there we have taken out seven of them and are left with one bottom one still to come one of the top ones wrung and it is going to be a nightmare to drill and eze out we were able to leave the srarter on but had to remove a section of the steering mechanism all and all its been a bundle of fun cant wait till tomorrow till I get back at it joking of course will let you know how it ends. Richard. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 778 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Richard I didn't reply to your question as my car is an SY1. Interestingly, Paul Yorke's comments in another recent thread, were really accurate regards my car. He said how these exhaust manifold bolts are prone to loosening and this was exactly the case with my car. One of my first jobs was to replace the B bank exhaust gaskets, one of which had blown, due to a couple of the bolts loosening. As I recall the job, it was a case of a different technique for each one. Some could be reached with long extensions and others with a swivel head ratchet, working from the top with precise length extension pieces. Anyway, none of this is much help to you on the A bank on a series 2, however I would be interested to hear how you get on with the wrung bolt. I remember when doing my B bank I was really hoping I would not come across a seized bolt and happily that was the case. I don't know how I would have extracted a seized one, given the lack of space. Best of luck for the weekend Geoff | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 316 Registered: 4-2012 |
Geoff my own car is a SY1 the SY2 is my friend Barrys and there is a vast difference between these cars a lot of theme seems to be change for no good reason other than testing stuff to be used in the Spirits anyway we will keep marching on. Richard. | |||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 144 Registered: 5-2015 |
The SY2 wasn't meant to be. Originally RR was going to test the new bits much earlier on the MPW cars. The spirit was meant to come out in 1977. The same with the Cloud 3 introduced as a stop gap. | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 321 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi back again we have finally got the manifold off the one that wrung is now the only thing left to do I use this term loosely there was about 4 mm of the bolt showing but all efforts using vice grips etc are to no avail I may have to undo the engine mountings and raise the engine about 3 inches so I can try to drill a hole in the bolt and use an eze out is this feasible has it been done in Tee One Topics and if so do you know which edition number. Richard. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1660 Registered: 4-2003 |
Richard, Have a look at the Index to Tee One Topics, this should help narrow the number of issues you need to check:
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| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 465 Registered: 5-2009 |
Eze-outs are really only intended to grip a broken-off bolt that turns fairly freely; if you try to use one in a stuck bolt it will likely twist off or break, making things worse. Machine shops and experienced mechanics know how to remove broken bolts and studs; consult the professionals. You can try a reverse-twist drill bit: hopefully it grabs the bolt and backs it out. There's a good possibility of drilling off center and screwing up big-time. If some is protruding above the surface, you are ahead: slip a nut over the end and weld it to the broken bolt. Try it when it cools off. There I've made you feel better...just sayin'. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 792 Registered: 5-2012 |
I'd be a bit concerned about welding a nut on, so close to a machined surface. I think Richard's best bet is drilling the bolt out and helicoiling it, assuming he can get enough access. I agree drilling the bolt dead center will be difficult, but what other options are there. I would go for the reverse twist drill - Richard might be lucky and have it twist out. Nightmare scenario. Geoff | |||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 183 Registered: 5-2015 |
I would remove the cylinder head and take to Thread and pipe services. They will remove the stud and fit helicoils. The guy nails the head down on a vertical mill and gets the hole bang on centre. Easy outs are made from tool steel if it breaks then it won't drill out. Last year he charged me 25 quid to do two holes in a Morris Minor head. Welding a nut on can work because the heat also helps. A bit of splatter on the exhaust port face is not going to do any damage a quick rub with emery cloth will make it good as new. Smearing grease on the face helps. To get dead centre. Centre punch centre drill. Then drill. Then drill just below tapping size. Sometimes what's left of fhe stud comes out like a spring, and helicoiling is not needed. I read somewhere that the exhaust stud holes threads are helicoiled from new. Be careful if its getting dicey take the head off. | |||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 325 Registered: 4-2012 |
Thanks everyone that's a lot of options. I am going to Scotland for a Holiday so while I am away I will read some more posts and drink a few drams for inspiration you know!!! Richard. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1662 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bob and Richard, A less destructive method of removing a "frozen" length of broken bolt is used by old machinery restorers here. It is spark erosion [aka electro-discharge machining] using workshop-built equipment however, in Richard's situation, the head would have to be removed to allow the kerosine to "pond" around the broken bolt. A lot of relevant information is on the following thread: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-47972.html One home-built version is described in the following link: http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/a-spark-erosion-apparatus.html} | |||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 189 Registered: 5-2015 |
We had a spark erosion head fitted to a Herbert Pillar drill when I was an apprentice. I never used it myself. One of lads eroded a broken tap out of an expensive part. It takes a while. Broken studs can be a nightmare. I prefer to use my guy because he has never failed. The internet is so useful for stuff like this. Someone somewhere has had a "play around" and posted the results. |
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