| Author | Message | ||
     Thomas Cunningham Yet to post message Username: toms72ss Post Number: 1 Registered: 11-2004 |
Hello All Rolls Lovers, My name is Tom and I live in spring hill Florida.I just bought a 1972 silver shadow #sra14225. It is in good condition and needs some work and upgrades. I found a Rolls mechanic in St. Petersburg(55) miles away Who seems to know a lot about these cars. He said I need a right rear disc/rotor. It will take 7 hours of labor. Does this sound right? I have already done some upholstery work.This forum is absolutely great and I have learned a lot just by reading the postings.Thanks again!! Tom Cunningham | ||
| whunter Prolific User Username: whunter Post Number: 88 Registered: 10-2003 |
Hello Tom Welcome. With your location, join www.RROC.org This is the USA chapter. I am a member in Detroit Metro. Have a great day. whunter | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 428 Registered: 4-2003 |
The RR documents quote 4.8 hours to change both rotors. In my experience, that is plenty. The driveshafts must be released from the hubs and the rear hubs dismantled. The difficult part is the rear hub nut, which is torque tightened to 500 ft-lb ! Allow another hour maximum to replace the brake caliper seals. If you have any rear end vibration while accelerating, it's an ideal time to swap the driveshafts from left to right. They wear in one direction. | ||
| Thomas Cunningham New User Username: toms72ss Post Number: 2 Registered: 11-2004 |
Hello Richard, I also wanted to say that the mechanic stated that the 'piano" wire was one third missing. Is there any danger in driving this car? Thank You Tom Cunningham | ||
| Thomas Cunningham New User Username: toms72ss Post Number: 3 Registered: 11-2004 |
Richard, The mechanic said this is safety wire or piano wire. He said one third is missing. Tom C. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 429 Registered: 4-2003 |
I'm afraid I have no clue as to what this piano wire is. Can someone enlighten me ? RT. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Prolific User Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 57 Registered: 9-2004 |
I believe quality vehicles mainly have it for use around the outer part of the disc for cooling, sound deadening,fine tuning of the disc. On some it can be a saftey guide as to the thickness of the disc. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 431 Registered: 4-2003 |
Pat has suggested you mean a high tensile steel band around the rim of the rotor. I recall that the rear discs do not have them, but our T-series is 20,000km from here so I can't check for sure. The early non-ventilated front disc rotors certainly do have them. My 1987 Turbo R, where I thought that the rear rotors only differ from earlier cars by having ABS lobes, has no such band on the rear discs, and ventilated discs never have them. I thought that the only change in the rear discs in 1987 was to accommodate ABS. Where fitted, the band is mainly to stop disc squeal. If yours do have them and one is partially corroded away, I couldn't really comment on safety. I guess it's probably not unsafe immediately, but indicates that the rotor has run its course. New rear disc rotors, part no. UG14782, cost around US$190 in the UK, plus freight and any US taxes for your reference. Good secondhand ones are available for around half that. The same rear disc was fitted from 1965 to September 1986. Unlike 1987+ cars which have ABS, the left and right rear disc rotors are identical. | ||
| John Dare Unregistered guest Posted From: 144.138.194.89 |
Welcome Thomas; I have spent some enjoyable time on the "gulf" coast of Florida, from Clearwater to Ft.Myers and met a most knowledgeable gent (Shadow and Spirit owner) there, who lived in the Port Richey area but I dont know if he is now retired or semi retired. In any case, I suspect there is plenty of local talent in Florida (outside the dealer network) and in any case, you have W.Hunter (a master mechanic) up north, and I feel sure that he will be able to generally assist you from time to time. I would, as he suggests, join the RROC(U.S) for, like our forum you will, in most (but not all) cases, find people (often experienced and qualified "R-R" PROFESSIONALS!) who are GENUINELY focused upon HELPING other owners. Thats what clubs and discussion forums are supposed to be about. Good Luck. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Thomas Cunningham Experienced User Username: toms72ss Post Number: 7 Registered: 11-2004 |
Hello Richard treacy; I removed the upper bolts on the 3 motor mounts, moved the engine to the rear and changed the rear oil pan bolts. NO MORE OIL LEAKS! Best Regards, Tom C. It did take me slightly longer than 20 minutes. | ||
| Thomas Cunningham Experienced User Username: toms72ss Post Number: 8 Registered: 11-2004 |
Hello All an richard treacy, This is a post script to my oil leak in the rear of the oil pan (4 bolts) from 11-18-04. I then installed 4 new #8 grade bolts in the rear oil pan with loctite(blue) on threads. Well the past few days the oil leak is right back as bad as it started.You can run the car all day and there isn't any oil "drip". As soon as you turn the engine off 5 minutes later the drip starts.It drips until one good pancake size oil spot has accumulated. I have asked a roll mechanic about this and he said the folloowing: " when I worked for the rolls dealership ouy of 130 shadows only 2 were not dripping or leaking oil." He said this is mainly due to the design flaw being there is not any rear or front oil seal. So I guess I have to live with a oil drip pan under the car in the garage. Any feedback or comments on this subject will be Greatly appreciated. I have spoken to two Rolls mechanics on this subject and all involved say "they all leak oil" I have a 1972 silver shadow #SRA14225 Thanks Again, Tom Cunningham | ||
| whunter Grand Master Username: whunter Post Number: 124 Registered: 10-2003 |
Hello Thomas Cunningham Please e-mail your contact information. I may be coming down to visit family in Florida within three months. I am considering adding RROC Florida chapter membership this year. whunter ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com AUTOKUNST 754 Orchard Lake Road Pontiac, MI. 48341 Phone# 248-334-3120 Fax#248-334-0435 | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 493 Registered: 4-2003 |
Tom, Your mechanic is correct. When new, almost all these cars gave out a drop when parked every now and then: xontrolled seepage they call it, and it increases with age. The solution is to fit a Silver Spirit rear main oil seal and housing. Cal West recommended this to me 20 years ago, and the result is perfect: absolutely no leaks. The front crankshaft labyrinth usually works perfectly, so I would leave that alone. I hated those embarrassing drops on friends' driveways ! It wasn't so great on our car, but a single drop is a reminder that you came by. As an alternative, you can machine the existion labyrinth housing out to suit a Spirit seal to save costs, or you may find a secondhand housing. It is aluminium, and around 6"x8" with a domed top. The transmission and flexplate must be removed, and the rest is easy. RT. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 494 Registered: 4-2003 |
Tom, I forgot to mention: have you cleaned out the flame trap in the breather pipe at the oil filler ? They are often forgotten, but cleaning is a standard maintenance action every oil change. If not clean, crankcase pressure will develop. Oil os then squirted out from the rear main labyrinth like crazy. It is one of the most commonly misunderstood necessity to clean the flame trap every 6 months. This may explain why you have a puddle and not a single drip of oil after parking every now and then. RT. | ||
| whunter Grand Master Username: whunter Post Number: 126 Registered: 10-2003 |
Thank you Richard Treacy. Cal West recommended solution is 100% effective, not cheap, but what is on a Rolls-Royce or Bentley. The flame trap is a very good tip; generic service trained people miss this service during oil change. Here in the USA, the common Quick Lube shop will never touch it, or try to convince you that it is not an oil service requirement. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 164 Registered: 9-2004 |
Hi. If the flame trap is restricted is not correct that the crank pressure will build up and leak with the engine running. This is not the case here as it only leaks after the engine is stopped. I will find out if there is a return that can block from the rear of the rear main bearing to sump! Also the crank case may have a depression vac when running! does it have a pintal valve? | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 496 Registered: 4-2003 |
Pat, I beg to disagree. The oil comes past the crank web and stays in the cavity when the motor is running. It only comes out once the motor is stopped. This is classic blocked flame trap behaviour. RT. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 347 Registered: 4-2003 |
Just another thought - is the engine oil level correct and not overfull? If my memory is correct, there was a problem with dipstick calibration at some stage of Shadow production however the exact details escape me - I cannot recall if the problem resulted in over/under filling of the sump. My archives are in off-site storage and I cannot access them readily so can anyone else provide more information. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 498 Registered: 4-2003 |
David, The Oz home-grown solution was to shorten the dipstick tube length so that full was read 1 litre lower than as delivered. It was not a mistake, but a successful attempt to stop drips. The panel oil level gauge was a little out of course. Better is to fit the Spirit oil seal. RT. | ||
| Thomas Cunningham Experienced User Username: toms72ss Post Number: 9 Registered: 11-2004 |
Gentlemen: I was referred to a Doug S. of upstate New York by the RROC (usa) for the oil seep problem. He said that I should check my valve cover gaskets and tighten down the bolts on them.Well, this I did and every single one of them were loose as a goose. I then took the auto for a ride. I parked it in the garage and waited...so far 2 hours...no oil seep. Thanks so much, Tom Cunningham | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 499 Registered: 4-2003 |
I forgot to mention that one. I have seen it more than once. Often, on the later cars, the steering rack is blamed as they are chronic leakers. There is a newish Crewe change on the rocker cover gaskets by the way. They are made from soft neoprene, and need spacers under the studs. You simply nip the rocker covers down onto the spacers and never touch them again. The only drawback is that they are very expensive for what they are. However, if a job is being done by paid labour, it is relatively cheap insurance money well spent. I have almost always used the original cheapies at the risk of future rework, but did fit a set of neoprene ones to a friend's SSII this year. I have spoken to Crewe parts outlets. They say DIYers always go for cork and paid professionals insist on neoprene. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 165 Registered: 9-2004 |
Richard. It confirms the leak on the rearcrank main will occure with crank pressure with the engine running for whatever reason. Certainly not with the engine stopped! Ie running down the block from the rocker covers! Do you agree! | ||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 296 Registered: 4-2003 |
New gaskets. I agree with Richard about the cost of the new gaskets and can follow the choice of professionals against DIYers. If you are paying for it the cost of refitting all that junk off the top of the engine to replace the gaskets will quickly pay for the new gaskets. The legendry Phantom by the way has still after some 500 miles, an immaculate engine after screwing up the tell tale holes and fitting the new gaskets. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 167 Registered: 9-2004 |
Bill, have used cork for rocker covers with no leaks for years. The trick is to use a varnish or lacquer sealing the cork,when dry glue to cover and fit and forget. Check tighten every major service. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 168 Registered: 9-2004 |
For Robert C. Would there be any adverse effect of the fitment of a pintal valve and running the crankcase under a given depression all the time to stop the rare oil weepage. | ||
| Thomas Cunningham Experienced User Username: toms72ss Post Number: 10 Registered: 11-2004 |
Hello Gentlemen: Post script: overnight accumulation was 2 spots of oil. One was the size of a quarter the other was the size of a small weiner shape. These heads were done 2 years ago and since then the auto has mostly stood idle. Since then I took it on a couple of long trips and thus loosened the rocker cover bolts. Well the oil drip is much smaller, Thanks again, Tom Cunningham |
