Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov
Post Number: 81
|Posted on Thursday, 22 January, 2015 - 10:23 pm: |
So I finally got the lifter blocks out and have noticed that on about 4 lifters there appears to be a tiny hole the size of a pin prick in the base of these lifters right through the case hardening. Flying spares has the original lifters at an astronomical price but after market lifters at a reasonable price say around $40 AUD a pop. There has been chat about putting new lifters on an old camshaft and this leading to all types of nastiness but I am pretty certain this engine has only done 100,000 miles tops. Does anybody know about the quality of the aftermarket lifters Flying Spares is selling? Also, it appears I need special tool RH7131 to get the serated nut of the front of the crankshaft. Has anybody had any luck with such bastardary such as a hammer and an aluminium drift and or stilsens to get this weird nut off? Also manual says I need Extractor RH7097 to get the rest of the gear off the front of the crankshaft. Any ideas gentlemen? Maybe one of you has these two necessary tools laying about in his man cave catching dust and will trade loot for them. Also, have any of you made a good liner extractor which is also catching dust? I think Bill wrote in Tee one topics that the RR tool is not great for the job because it has a thick thread and what you need is fine thread on the puller to get the liners out even after preheating the block. Can anybody tell why English engineers have to overcomplicate a simple thing in order to get it off. Was somebody running good North Korean cooch or moonshine into Crewes engineering department when they designed this thing? Special tools for this, special tool for that. Utter madness, maybe too much reading of Alice in Wonderland, you know execution first judgement later, not even the Americans have pulled this one. I'll be glad to get the damn thing apart let alone put it back together!!
Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov
Post Number: 85
|Posted on Friday, 23 January, 2015 - 10:13 am: |
Yes I did it. I removed the strange serated nut off the crank, soviet style with CCCP type large hammer and USSR type blunt but made in China chisel without hardly burring the mongrel. I had attempted with large multigrips to loosen it with the Mad Scot holding a long spanner between two inserted bolts in the rear of the crank to stop the engine from turning. But now there is the problem of removing the quaint but very tight on the crank and keyway flange with its two dowels sticking out. Indeed the question arises as to whether a carton of gold beer or a puller is required for the next hand to spanner combat on getting the engine apart. I am of course expecting to see along with a cubic metre of sludge in the crankcase some unique, British talisman or antique hallmarked plaque somewhere within that can solve the "adequate horsepower" stiff upper lip Eton type chipper blab of yesteryear to justify the quirky, almost Swedish loon bin contruction of the engine. Thus I proclaim spanner RH7131 a thoroughly redundant specialized tool. Egad and twibble.
Post Number: 616
|Posted on Saturday, 24 January, 2015 - 12:54 am: |
If you have time, could you put up some pics, as you dismantle your engine.
Post Number: 3172
|Posted on Saturday, 24 January, 2015 - 11:19 pm: |
The correct tools are out there. Also, no person in its right mind would recommend the $15 lifters which work perfectly and can be bought at your local Chrysler shop or online. In parallel, no one in its right mind would suggest that at $400 each ($6400 for a full set) the only recommended and guaranteed lifter is cheap.
When you play around with lifters on a used camshaft I am afraid that you are on your own to make a decision on which way to go. Safest is to give the camshaft - even a $4000 new one - to a specialist and have the lifters profiled to suit.
These caveats are not without a very bad experience or two including one on that diabolical Arnage T recently.
Post Number: 14
|Posted on Sunday, 25 January, 2015 - 10:03 am: |
I have all the tools and after market parts, including RR spec lifters, to rebuild your motor but I have an alternative. This will save money and time. We have a fully rebuild motor which customer didn't want to pay for. It would be about half the price of a full rebuild on your motor. It's advertised in Roll Royce's Praclarum in December edition