| Author | Message | ||
     Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 275 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Folks, I have several lethargic devices -- front passenger window, front passenger door lock, windshield wipers, and others. I think the common element is a relay and I suspect that I am losing voltage due to worn or coated contacts. There are times when revving the engine seems to correct the lethargy. I want to test my theory. If I knew the internal wiring of the relays I could jumper them out and see if that increases the responsiveness. Does anybody have wiring diagrams of the various species these Lucas relays? Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1113 Registered: 6-2009 |
Yes. The vast majority of the relays in these cars are Lucas 6RA have the following diagram/pin configuration:   If it's a 6RA, the diagram is the same as above no matter what the additional numbers on the can. These had to do with how the brackets were positioned on the relay can, not the relay function itself. Your car is of an era before the diode was used in the relay. I also have shots of the internals with the "can off" if that would help. Brian | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 208 Registered: 10-2010 |
The pins of the relays are riveted to the boards. All of the Lucas relays I've had trouble with have been a result of the rivets working loose and extra resistance (and heat) at the junction between the pin and the board. Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1115 Registered: 6-2009 |
Jeff, I've had the same experience. Although I've replaced a number of my relays I've also tried experimenting with "rehabilitation" of the originals. A combination of cleaning the pins and then applying a good blob of solder on the "wiggly pins" at the exterior rivet has worked very well. No matter how messy the case (and how non-existent any original ultra-tight seal between case and board) when I've removed the cases these Lucas relays have been spotlessly clean inside, at least so far. These relays are "built like tanks," not unlike our cars, in comparison to any modern relay I've dissected. I wonder if the internals of the currently available "Lucas Classic" version of these relays remains the same? Brian | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 276 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Brian, > ... have been spotlessly clean inside ... Even to the extent of carbonization or pitting on the contacts? Chris. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.86 |
The reason for slow Windows is that the system uses four micro switches to earth out the appropriate side of the motor. Fit two relays inside the door and use the existing wiring as signal wiring too Work the relays. See technical stuff on main site for wiring diagram. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| John Kilkenny Prolific User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 171 Registered: 6-2005 |
I suspect that slow(or even non)operating windows on Shadows are not so much the door micro switches as the inadequate gauge of the door wiring. Early Shadows (such as mine SRH1405) do not have this problem as thicker gauge wiring was used. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.74 |
John, I think it's the whole lot. The rear doors have a healthy supply for the cigar lighters. The front will need a fat Brown wire. There is enough room to squeeze one through the door thingy. The four fuses at the top of the fuse panel can be changed to 1 amp. The New fat brown wires connected to the fuse for the rear cigar lighters. Or maybe the centeal locking supply in the door could be used for supply. An advantage of the system is that it is so repairable with costing lots. Unlike others. Only bit missing is a rear window disconnect. But nowadays all car have electric Windows so Children are used to them. (Message approved by david_gore) |
