Post Number: 35
|Posted on Sunday, 09 November, 2014 - 04:25 pm: |
Hi - just wondering if anywhere in the world, it's possible to buy pre-sewn, ready to fit, new leather seat covers for a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow II?
Post Number: 1308
|Posted on Sunday, 09 November, 2014 - 10:35 pm: |
It can be done.
Are all the foams and wadding etc okay in your seat?
Post Number: 695
|Posted on Monday, 10 November, 2014 - 12:09 am: |
How bad are yours that you feel the need to replace rather than refurbish them?
Post Number: 268
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 03:03 am: |
Not to hijack the thread and obscure the original question, but I have some leather in my Shadow I that could use some attention, both prophylactic and remedial. Front seats have creases that are noticeable, but no perforations. Rear seats get much less use, so they show very little wear, but are stiff and could use conditioning before they start cracking.
I imagine -- pure speculation -- that there is some compound, like color-matching caulking, for the creases in the fronts, and like non-staining saddle soap for the rear. I don't want to put anything on the leather that is going to come off on my clothes.
What to you recommend?
Now, back to our regularly scheduled program of replacement leathers...
Thanks for the help,
Posted From: 220.127.116.11
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 05:49 am: |
Best for hard brittle leather is to wash with Luke warm water and hand soap. This will moisturize the animal skin the same as a human skin. Or saddle soap. Once supple use dubbing for football boots.
If a bit of color is needed shoe polish.
Once the stuff is on the leather and polished off. Sit in seats with old clothes on and wiggle around.
Cracks need plenty of dubbin left in overnight and then soft brushed with a shoe brush then a polish with a duster aka old tee shirt.
Or pay more for special car leather cream. Which will be lanolin and a leather smell stuff and a small amount of soap.
Hand moisturizer is also useful.
I if waiting for my wife sometimes give the leather a buff with a bit of dubbin and sometimes my shoes while I have the stuff out.
Tears and splits started off a dry leather. So until leather is supple be careful.
(Message approved by david_gore)
Post Number: 269
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 07:18 am: |
Post Number: 527
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 08:17 am: |
prophylactic - I didn't realize Americans used this term in it's wider meaning.
I use Connolly Hide Care for general leather care. It's about 30 bucks for a large jar. For renovation I have used Leatherique products to good effect. I personally steer clear of oil based dyes as the renovated seat looks painted, rather than natural.
Post Number: 1098
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 09:08 am: |
I'd like to hear more about what you are trying to describe by "looks painted, rather than natural."
All the original hides are Connolly hides and their "dying" process is, for all practical intents and purposes, applying paint. So is Leatherique, for that matter, but you are correct that there are water-based dyes and oil-based ones.
I much prefer vat-dyed leather to connollised since even the creases maintain basically the same color as the original finished surface.
Brian (who seldom sees "prophylactic" used as preventive in any situation except when writing. Prophylaxis, however, is in common use in medical writing.)
Post Number: 1099
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 09:17 am: |
Essentially dubbin is the "generic" term for leather softening paste like Connolly Hide Food. See dubbin.
I'm thinking of changing over to mink oil based on recent reading and the long term use of neatsfoot oil as a leather conditioner of choice. I have yet to see anything make a significant change the color of Connolly leather since the surface color is, essentially, paint. Any leather may look slightly different after the application of conditioner.
Vat-dyed leather, on the other hand, generally visibly darkens with the application of oils (if it wasn't oiled leather to begin with, and even then in most cases because you're dealing with an exposed surface where oils slowly get drawn out and away).
Posted From: 18.104.22.168
|Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2014 - 10:21 am: |
Dubbin is like a high quality clear shoe polish designed for sports leather stuff.
I use Chelsea dubbin which I think is made by cherry blossom shoe polish.
It is harmless to wood etc.
Water on its own will make leather supple. Like my fingers and toes in the bath. Remember that leather is animal skin.
(Message approved by david_gore)