| Author | Message | ||
     Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 263 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Folks, I have a new set of door seals from Replacement Parts (http://www.replacementpartsinc.com). I've removed the seals from the '66 cadaver car, and that was really easy, but that experience doesn't really say anything about re-installing them on the '72. Does anybody have any sage wisdom for this project? Any tricks to easy the installation and prevent damage to these new and expensive seals? Should I lubricate the track? If so, castor oil? Dish soap? Water? Baby powder? Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.90 |
These are are time consuming to fit. using hand soap feed the rubber into the channel. The seals has corners so continually reference the corners as the seal is fed into the channel. Also their has been some mods on door seals if they leak around the frame area. Worry about that bit later if you get whistles. I use green swarfega jelly hand cleaner. Also cleans grease from trim. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 266 Registered: 5-2013 |
I can't find the "entry point" for these new seals. There must be some place where the channel cleats allow an opening but I can't find it with the old seal still on the door. Anybody know where to look? Chris. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1302 Registered: 6-2006 |
Start at the right angle corner. Tuck the outside lip into the door channel. Use a flat plastic tool about an inch or two wide (spatula like ) to fold the seal into the inner channel. Carry on around, tedious and you may need to go back and push it in again so it locates correctly. Good luck  | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 267 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Paul, So, I surmise from your explanation that I'm not looking for a way to slide it in? This is really good to know, because that was my plan and it was beginning to look like it wasn't going to work. Now I have confirmation that sliding is not the best approach. Right? Chris. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1303 Registered: 6-2006 |
Correct, no sliding. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 52 Registered: 7-2012 |
Also if when fitted the front door seals foul the "B" post on closing, "stretch" the seal away from corner, both along top of frame AND down towards lock. The rear door seal on early cars ha habit of folding at forward/hinge end along top of frame where it touches seal landing face. The factory added fabric at tis corner to resist seal fold. It helps to put a bit of vasaline/grease on landing face to assist seal sliding into correct door closed position. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.85 |
This job is only bearable if one does one door a day then goes and watches a DVD and a nap. Plastic eating knife useful. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Stefan Ihnat Experienced User Username: stefan87 Post Number: 13 Registered: 8-2017 |
Do you have anyone any tips to replace the seal? Does the entire frame with the window have to be removed? The varnish also paints the seal, So I have to change it :-/ It does not seem to be a simple matter at all. Thanks. Thank you. |
