Post Number: 321
|Posted on Monday, 27 October, 2014 - 12:16 pm: |
Made it for the 10 mile round-trip to church this evening with no problems. With a new battery She starts very easily and so far I have not found any serious leaks. There were a few slow bubbles from the steam valve cap; I wonder what's up with that? I did not think that area was pressurized.
Anyway, I still have to put the refrigerant in the air conditioning system and make some more adjustments on the rear height control. Also, the rear brake warning lamp flickers now like it wants to go out (after I repaired the rear pump). I think the switch is shorted so I will have to deal with that.
Posted From: 188.8.131.52
|Posted on Thursday, 30 October, 2014 - 06:58 am: |
By steam valve cap I assume you mean the bit with the bolts and label. If this has bubbles then the gasket is leaking and the steam valve is maybe not seating.
If you mean the black cap with the hex hole in it. Then check the bottom raised lip for chips and that the rubber seal in the bottom of the water hole is good
The brake failure thingy works by having the windings of a special relay in series with the stop bulb. When the bulb is on the flow of electricity causes the relay to energise and open the relay points which are connected to the stop lamp failure warning light. If a bulb blows the flow of current stops the relay points close and the warning lamp lights. There are two relays in the same box. Which is fitted to the boot front wall or bulkhead on the left hand side level with the left-hand suspension ram.
Change the bulbs and check connections and earths. Black is earth. Red is rear lights green with white tracer is indicator. Green with red tracer is other indicator. The stop is the other green with Brown tracer I think.
Check that the side lights are not interchanged with the brake lights.
I have seen many stop tails forced in the wrong way round.
I understand the apprehension of the first test. If these are the only faults then good O.
(Message approved by david_gore)
Post Number: 1297
|Posted on Friday, 31 October, 2014 - 08:35 am: |
If you have bubbles from the steam valve plate first check the overflow hose is open by either blowing through it or overfilling the header tank.
The plate and above the steam valve should be at atmospheric pressure. If you are getting bubbles from pressure there, then the header tank to steam valve boss must be leaking. This is soldered into the header tank I'm afraid so it will need removing and repairing.
Post Number: 324
|Posted on Wednesday, 19 November, 2014 - 02:36 pm: |
I think you are right. Once the 7-day work weeks stop, I will remove and have it tested and repaired.
Posted From: 184.108.40.206
|Posted on Thursday, 20 November, 2014 - 06:40 am: |
Before recharging the air con. Consider if it is worth deleting the suction throttling valve and fitting a temp switch next to the expansion valve bulb. This extra switch turns the compressor clutch on and off ( via a relay) which works better than throttling the compressor suction inlet.
An air con engineer told me that 134a without a throttling valve works as well as R12. I don't see why this is so, but I only have three days training in air con.
Maybe the refrigerant flows better without a suction valve.
Drive for 100 miles, both you And the car will enjoy it.
(Message approved by david_gore)