| Author | Message | ||
     Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.62.118 |
Hi, my car goes in for a repaint next week and as the windscreen and rear window will be removed I thought I might do up the woodwork at the same time. I have learnt how to remove the door woodwork but have not yet attempted the dash. I've got Larry's cd but the instructions seem to be very complicated and involve the removal of just about everything. Is there a simple way to remove just the dash woodwork? (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jon Rothwell Frequent User Username: jon_rothwell Post Number: 12 Registered: 4-2004 |
Hi, The wood removal is very simple. Undo the slotted screws that hold the panels in place, remove the rubber trim at the back of the steering column, and then the wood panels can be removed by gently teasing them out from the top and tilting them towards you. The vent push fittings need to be closed, but the centre wood is very easy to get off if you are careful and don't force anything. The glovebox is just as easy, just remove the holding screws. If for some reason the panels bind up on the dash pad then you may need to remove that (although I have never needed to). I showed my father in law how to do this the other day and he was stunned at how quick it was. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 377 Registered: 4-2003 |
Nigel, John, You do need to remove the vent knobs themselves. That is simply done using a small Allen key from beneath. Don't lose the grubscrews ! Then push the shafts fully home. And yes, that main dash panel takes no more than ten leisurely minutes to remove carefully. | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.64.94 |
Problem solved. You're right! It is so easy. Only problem is I didn't have an Allen key small enough but shall get one today. Shall upgrade the clock as well and replace high beam indicator bulb. Many thanks to you both. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.64.213 |
Thanks Jon. It sounds so easy I'm sure something will go wrong. Shall try it tomorrow night and let you know how I went. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 380 Registered: 4-2003 |
Nogel, are you fitting a VDO quartz clock from a SSI, Turbo R etc ? That's what I put in our T-Series. Also, if you can't find an Allen key, you can buy a cheap supermarket set of instrument drivers. If there is no Allen drive of the correct size in the set, you can get away with using a suitable plain-head instrument screwdriver. | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.53.70 |
Any suggestions for replacing the clock. I have located a reference to "retrofitted a quartz clock (recommended)" from 7 Nov 2002, and went into the local auto shop but nothing was suitable. Do I purchase one from Rolls or is there a more economical one elsewhere that will fit? (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 320 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Nigel, Are there any "Instrument Fitters/Repairers" in your area or listed in your Yellow Pages - wherever there is a reasonable size airport with aircraft maintenance facilities, there will be instrument repairers/technicians that can fix your clock whether it is the original Smiths or the German K********* [do not know how to spell it] equivalent fitted to later Shadows. The usual problem with the Smiths clock is that the plunger used to energise the clock mechanism will jam and the clock goes dead - this is easily fixed by a technician and all will be well - it cost me $40 to get the Corniche clock done about 5 years ago. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 381 Registered: 4-2003 |
The original clock was a Kienzel, part of Siemens VDO these days. Yep, they're all German now I'm afraid. The best solution is probably to buy a good secondhand quartz VDO SSII clock. That's what I did: a few years ago I paid £40 in the UK for one. That was the simplest solution of all. Unlike the archaic plonker original impulse clock, the quartz clock never misses a second: it needs adjusting only for daylight saving. Even a really good impulse clock is good for no more than a few weeks if your schedule counts minutes. If you want to be a perfectionist, you can open the VDO and replace the face with the original Kienzel one and delete the second hand. Another route is to replace the movement by a quartz one: an automotive instrument shop can do that. I chose to put the perfect original Kienzel impulse clock intact into the archive box and fit an SSII clock untouched. | ||
| Mark Peacock Prolific User Username: takemehomejames Post Number: 34 Registered: 4-2004 |
does an early spirit have a vdo clock. ?? if so , i might have one. .. If not try General Auto Instruments in Sydney( 02)9649.1442. They're a vdo importer,repair all guages and also manufacture cables from scratch. ie: handbrake and accelerator cables etc. There work is 2nd to none in my opinion. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 384 Registered: 4-2003 |
The early Spirit, at least until 1993, has that awful digital clock. The analogue clocks came back with the Mulsanne Turbo, then the Turbo R etc and Mulsanne S. They are identical to that of an SSII, and fit straight into an SS without any modification even to the wiring. I took a chance on a secondhand one, and bought mine from Introcar. I found an identical one once which was from some VAG car later on but did not buy it. If it's what they call a 52mm clock, then possibly a VDO Part no.: 370-012-001K is ideal. Like a Shadow, it has no second hand. A VDO-370021 is similar but the lettering is a little different and it has a second hand. Mine is 52mm across the visible glass, so I suspect one of these will be easy to find and will fit. Cheapest is to find something at the wreckers and transfer its quartz movement into your Kienzle housing. I know of a few firms in the UK that do that. | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.65.25 |
Allen key problem is now solved and I have a 'pocket knife' type set which worked perfectly. David the clock is a Kienzel. I had not thought of repairing as for most items these days it seems cheaper to throw away and replace. I was puzzled as to how to attach the bracket but this problem will be solved if the clock is repaired rather than replaced. There are only 9 items under i in our yellow pages and instrument doesn't rate, however there are 2 instrument people in Mackay so shall take it down there next time I go and see if they can repair. If not I shall send it away. By the way I thank you all for your advice re spark plugs. I replaced them with BP4ES (only ones available in the shop) and put some Total Fuel System Cleaner in the tank and the engine is now murmering quietly. A new paintjob (Monday) new woodwork (same time if I can get it all stripped); new carpets and underlay in the front; new accumulators (Monday fortnight) and I shall just about have the car of my dreams! I thank you all for your support and advice. I would have been totally lost without it. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.65.5 |
Hi all, I spoke too soon when I said removal of the dash was easy! Where are the hidden fastenings to remove the glove box surround? I've unscrewed practiclly every screw I can find as well as the light switch, but it still won't budge. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Roy M Tilley Unregistered guest Posted From: 222.152.159.146 |
Have you looked at the upper edge of the glove box from inside (Scrounge a mirror from your local exorbitantly-paid dentist) You will find several screws which unscrew into the glove box. You will need a very short screwdriver and a fair degree of patience, to say nothing of the ability to mentally resolve the opposite rotation of the screws. Just the thing for a wet Sunday afternoon Regards Roy Tilley NZRR&BC (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.64.31 |
I still haven't got the glove box surround (or the 2 back seat mirrors)out as the car is at the painters and will stay there for 3 weeks. I have however stripped back what I have using the great suggestions put forward by Steve on 18 March 2001. I simply used good old Polystripper. I have photos of the process and it did exactly what Steve predicted ie. It changed to a sugary appearance which I then scraped off, washed the wood in metho and recoated with stripper to get the rest of the lacquer. I used 2 litres of stripper and 4 litres of metho. It took all day so I guess there must be a more efficient stripper out there somewhere. I've sanded one piece cautiously with 120, 180, 240 & 320 grit then blown with the compressor and wiped with metho. Everything seems ok. Is this enough? Any comments? Is there a monumental disaster waiting around the corner? I hope to finish the sanding on Saturday and paint in the apertures on Sunday, then off to the spraypainter for the dressing up. Shall try to get the other bits out while I'm there. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 396 Registered: 4-2003 |
Perhaps someone can correct me, but I don't like the sound of that sandpaper at all. The veneers are wafer thin and scratch easily. I have only ever done the woodwork refinishing myself on my R-Type, and that was 25 years ago. It was totally successful and is still unmarked today. After stripping, I used no sandpaper, just fine wire wool and soapy water to clean the surface finally and not to remove or damage any veneer. That, of course, was followed by a thorough rubbing with a soft cloth and methylated spirits prior to laquering. These days, I would use a synthetic kitchen sponge-cleaner, as shown below, with soap and water. It will clean the muck off but is too soft to damage the timber.  I have never done any work on the newer cars' woodwork myself, but do know that the finish is far harder. However, the woodwork itself is just as fragile. For my later car, due to a few chips from a passenger's rings, I had the rear door caps flawlessly refinished together in the UK by a top professiona refinisher within two weeks. The charge was A$170 each. A complete dash refinish is quoted at A$750 including minor repairs if necessary. At those prices I don't do it myself. | ||
| Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.53.131 |
Hi Richard, thanks for your comments. I have been simply following directions from a procedure that has been accepted on this forum. My cautiousness is due to the veneer being so thin and believe me I was very worried! Its practically done now and so far no extra damage! I agree with you about rings ... and especially seat belts let loose! One of the big concerns is that the 'stripping' treatment has practically deleted the 'felt pen' numerical records on the back of the pieces. The window pieces had enscriptions E30-16/1 while the dash had Z40 RM 9/1 and the centre console piece had SRH 18204. My car is SRH 18294 (and I assume the 0 in the centre console piece to be a 9). Do these variations indicate my car has been in a prang? With regards to the price to professionally get the woodwork redone, unfortunately I am not in your league nor are there professionals of this style within cooee. $1430 less $70 for stripping materials less $200 for relacquering leaves an awful lot for beer to get through the north Qld summer (or to go towards a leather overhaul not to mention my wifes lounge!). (Message approved by david_gore) |
