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denis
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 205.188.116.142
Posted on Wednesday, 22 September, 2004 - 10:14 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello to everyone,

Recently my 1980 Silver Shadow II, aka The Silver Sled, SRL41534C has decided to start relieving itself in a most undignified manner. System 2 has decided to leak where the accumulator and the accumulator valve meet. With the engine running I see a pencil lead thick stream of 363 squirting towards the front of the car and landing on the exhaust pipe. This is not good since it produces voluminous clouds of smoke and I know that I could have a very nifty blowtorch in short order.
I have read the manual about the removal of the accumulator and it really does not say much if anything about removing the rear accumulator. Looking at thing s under the car from what I see, it looks like I need to remove the wye pipe to take the accumulator out. Anyone know of an easier way to do this?

Denis


(Message approved by david_gore)
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 42
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Thursday, 23 September, 2004 - 07:49 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just done this (rebuilding this weekend) remove the left wheel for access. Bleed off any pressure from the hydraulics, I let my engine run until it had pumped all the fluid out the bleeder into a bottle and emptied the reservoirs, I figure less to pour out over me.
Then disconnect and cap all pipes and hoses, I used a bolt to block the rubber return lines and cable tied rubber gloves over the rest.
I had to remove the pressure switches to get my spanners on to the high pressure lines from the pumps, give the area a good clean first and the job will be much easier.
The accumulators are only held in place by three bolts each, the front most bolt also secures the dipstick.
Martin Taylor
http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor
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William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger

Post Number: 157
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Thursday, 23 September, 2004 - 12:35 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Martin;

I am not certain of the difference between your II and my I however can I make a suggestion? Rather than running the system down like you mentioned, why not just open the bleeders (after depressurizing per book) and let them sit over night? This way gravity will drain the system rather than pressure and you will not run the risk of damage to your pumps running them dry. Granted this way takes a little longer but is safer, I think.

Regards,
Bill
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Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 257
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 23 September, 2004 - 10:00 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Another point of view is that reservoirs are usually half full of crud and grotty oil. I would not like to pump that through the system again. Best take the lid off, treat yourself to a simple oil syringe and suck it out.
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 43
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Friday, 24 September, 2004 - 10:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Both valid points,

My reservoir is spotlessly clean, I even cleaned out the sight glasses with pipe cleaners.
When draining I closed the bleeder when the rear one was almost empty and cut the engine when the front one started to sputter, opening the bleeder will not drain the reservoir as there are one way valves on the pumps that don't allow the fluid to flow without pressure. According to the book it isn't necessary to drain the reservoir, only to block the return lines. I however have never been that quick at blocking off hoses.
Incidentally when I drained the reservoir to clean it I used a windscreen washer pump.
Mine is a shadow 1, this is a messy job no matter how it is done.
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denis
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 205.188.116.142
Posted on Friday, 01 October, 2004 - 10:31 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Update on the accumulator removal.
I have come to the conclusion that people with small hands assembeled and bolted the accumulator on.
I removed the wye pipe after trying to wiggle, rotate, and pull it thru the rather smallish opening between the exhaust and frame. In fact it almost landed on my forehead after I removed the pipe. It has been a challenge to get both wrenches and my hands in where needed to undo the various lines and bolts.
The o-ring has seen better days and had no more elasticity. In fact it was now rectanglular in cross section.
Now the fun begins to put everything back where it was. One question, is bleeding the brakes as bad as it looks in the manual?

denis...caretaker of SRL41534C, Silver Shadow II, aka The Silver Sled.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 44
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Friday, 01 October, 2004 - 11:04 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Dennis,
Bleeding the brakes is easy, you can bleed the accumulators just by opening the bleeders with the engine running, the brakes can be done with or without as the accumulators will store a lot of fluid assuming they have good nitrogen pressure.
I just lean a block of steel against the pedal and open each bleeder in turn, no pumping like on a standard system (unless you are doing the rear master cylinder circuit).