| Author | Message | ||
     Randy Roberson Prolific User Username: wascator Post Number: 261 Registered: 5-2009 |
I knew I had to work on the HC valves after the pump overhaul, because the rear pump was not working when I bought the Car, and now if I start Her up the very expensive fluid will go all over. After profuse sweating in near-100F heat, I have removed both HC valves and ordered kits for overhaul. Some of the original Bundy tubing is (surprise) rusty and must be replaced. There will be quite a slog before I get this, but it must be done. As the valves/tubing have leaked just because there was fluid in the rear reservoir, the good news is the system is flushed and has clean fluid throughout; the bad news is it has removed some of the paint from the crossmember in the area where the control valves are mounted. is there a paint which will resist destruction by brake fluid? I will touch the paint up while everything is out of the way, and it would be nice if I have a leak on shakedown, and it does not ruin the paint. Gotta go; I have Rolls-Royce all in my hair and smeared on both arms. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 926 Registered: 6-2009 |
Randy, Were I you I would definitely replace your mild steel brake/ram lines with CuNiFer line instead. The latter is so, so, so much easier to flare, route, and bend. It also doesn't corrode at any rate that will matter in our lifetimes. Nothing was `more fun` than trying to flare the end of existing mild steel tubing on the car in a tight space! When you say "removed paint" do you mean from the underside of the body? I don't recall there being any paint on the crossmember, just undercoating, but it's been a while since I was last working in that area. Brian, who has personally not found DOT3 brake fluid to be an especially effective paint remover if it's removed (preferably by rinsing) from a painted surface promptly - and I know I'm in the minority | ||
| Randy Roberson Prolific User Username: wascator Post Number: 262 Registered: 5-2009 |
Yes, it has undercoating everywhere, but the appearance of the stuff is like wrinkled-up paint which is turning loose after attack by brake fluid, so I think maybe the crossmember was painted before it was installed at the Factory.This is just in the immediate area of the control valve where some fluid has leaked and run down before dripping off. The damaged paint is well contained to a small area where the control valves reside. I only use Cunifer tubing and have repiped most of the brake system Already. I saved the worst 'till last I suppose. | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 569 Registered: 1-2008 |
"Hammerite" or a reasonably close facsimile should be resistant to brake fluid. I painted a set of calipers with some and, even after a significantly large fluid leak that doused one of them, it didn't show any signs of 'lifting' or wrinkling. Once it's cured you can underseal ... over it again. | ||
| Randy Roberson Prolific User Username: wascator Post Number: 263 Registered: 5-2009 |
Thanks a bunch. I thought of the much vaunted "POR 15" after I posted the question. Regards, RR | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 171 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Randy, I am following your project with great interest because I have very similar projects on the horizon. Pictures of the original problem and pictures of your steps along the way would be of great benefit. Chris. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.75 |
Sorry got called away to lock up. Red brake rubber grease dot. This is also an assembly grease it is made by Castrol and others for assembly of dot hydraulic components. If storing overhauled parts this is especially useful In all cases I use lots on calipers I force it in to the gap between piston and bore between the dust seal and the main seal. I never get.tight pistons. NEVER. Motorbikes as well. £10 1/2 KILO Last for years. Dot dissolves it and it will not ever cause damage. Small pipes do not restrict pressure when static pressure is applied. Not moving just pressure. At first the pressure will be low then quickly go balance High pressure moves to low until equal. The restrictOrs two on the cross member have springs inside the regulate preassure in the ride system. This means that the pipe does slow the speed of the rams when the dot is moving at a set speed then a size of pipe could be used to control pressure from another higher set pressure but if speed or supply pressure changes then so will the output pressure. Hence the restrictors are crude small pressure regulators which don't seem to go wrong. If the ride system where to go to 3 inches both sides fast then No2 pump and acc will struggle dus to volume going out of the power station to fast and the neighbours have dim house lights and No2 brake effort will be less. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.85 |
Warm soapy water will remove dot instantly. The two pipes to the ram are known rotters. One pipe is pressure and the other is bleed. My bleed screws are directly fitted to the ram. This allows me to pump the ram up sit in the boot, open nipple and car sinks which pushes air out fast , or go bog standard. When flaring use castrol red brake rubber dot grease to lubricate flaring tool to get better flares and save tool wear. Also pliers that bend knunifer pipe are cheap and give the factory look. Hamerite is good gear and go Brown if overheated. This effect can be used for an indication of temperature. (Message approved by david_gore) |
