| Author | Message | ||
     Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.83 |
My ride height over the last years has become even slower than normal slow and the fast bit just as slow Now the car is sitting permanently half way. Before I panic and take things apart guessing. This the pressure lights both out before engine start. Pumping down 30 front and 35 rear. Normally rear no2 is on due to ride height sucking pressure I have a collapsed internally hp flex hose. 3 hoses return pressure in and signal. 1150psi. My Lucas ( auto electrics) brake hose book shows a pipes with various Lockheed girling type fittings for hp dot applications. When cross referenced to vehicle application trade lists. My first choice showed up GM Bedford CF van. My next choice, a 1/4 longer hose showed.GM and RR/Bentley. A dead match About the same.length manufacturing tolerances cover the rest. These hoses come with half nuts and washers 40% cheaper than FS with free nuts. Lucas has stopped hoses and Ferodo is doing the range along with girling at my local motor factors. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.88 |
The flex hoses. Citreon 2CV has no brake hoses. The front brakes are inboard and the metal brake lines have a coil in them to allow for flexing . The rear brake pipe goes round the swing arm pivot 4 Times to form a coil. The ride height flexs are to allow for subframe movement and for no other reason. If it all goes wrong and the pipes break------- Later 2CVs had LHM brakes and a manual dual line master. A bit of curved ball on LHM theory. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 568 Registered: 1-2008 |
Do you mean that the old girl's bustle drags in the dust until the hydraulics pump it back up again even when there's no extra weight in the back? The rough & ready test is to exhaust all the pressure in the system and see if you can slide a flat hand over each rear tyre without scraping off a knuckle or two against the upper wheel arch. If you can't, then you are looking at springs that have compressed over the decades she's been shuffling around the roads. Either replace them or get some of those 'spring assisters'(IIRC Range Rover ones are the right size) and fit at least one under the spring inside the lower seat. This will give her a couple of inches of extra lift. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.87 |
I have rubber things on each corner which with 32 PSI in tyres means it not bad in the lanes and it can hustle When the pressure is gone then the car is about 1 and 1/2 to low. The rubbers lift about 1/2 inch. The ram does the rest which exercises the ride system The rubbers short out coils which raises rate and length. The tax is due so I am going to sorn the car because April 15 2015 I get free tax. So lots of time to fix exhaust more tyres and ride height. Rear tyres are 2 mm. The tax saving will help pay. The hoses or solid pipes, I still chewing it over My RR local guy said he does that to test but fits new hoses after. Usually due to flushing lhm form dot systems. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 577 Registered: 1-2008 |
As I said: You put the spacers under the spring so that the full thickness is used. Fortunately the bottom seats are deep enough that the spring is still held in place while the whole back end is lifted by at least 2". For another 2" you can put another spacer at the top end where it can't be seen. Despite the loss of length the springs should still react much as they should, but with an almost imperceptible increase in ride stiffness. Just another example of RR/B over engineering. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.84 |
I am ok with the car as it is because the rams are always picking the car a bit gives the rams a bit of exercise But this means the rams if full load is applied May not have enough travel left to level the car. This doesn't cause damage and I don't carry heavy loads. I just love the grossly over engineered of RR cars. a luxury truck. How many bolts hold the disc to front hub about the same as a fair size truck would have. AND just in case the bolts are not small. AND just in case the bolts are high quality ht. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 444 Registered: 5-2012 |
I looked at this solution i.e. putting spacers under the spring, but as I recall the housing for the spring was only about 2 1/2 inches deep. Putting a 2" spacer in the housing meant that there was only 1/2" left to hold the spring in place. I realize the damper would prevent the spring from flying out the side of the car if it jumped the housing, but I personally was too uncomfortable with the solution to use it. I also found that 4 spacers on each side only increased the ride height on my car by 1/2". The only real answer, in my opinion, is to replace the springs. Geoff | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 583 Registered: 1-2008 |
The spacers, both top & bottom, have been in place for thousands of miles/klicks without the slightest sign of movement. I know it's a kludge, but it's been good enough until I can get around to buying and fitting a set of new springs. However inserting more than one spacer between the coils of any single spring has got to be bad practice. Use too many and there will be no significant 'give' in that spring so that hitting a large bump or pothole will have the whole back end flying up in the air. Do that on a sharp bend and you'll fly backwards into the scenery! | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.75 |
Stiff suspension makes car bounce from one road bend to next bend then into a ditch. Dampers only work when they move. The damper will hold the spring in place not ideal but it will work I guess Loads of boy racers get this wrong. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1419 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Bob, The secret is to get the compromise between cornering performance and personal comfort right. Stiff suspension results in sore kidneys and blurred vision on roads that are not billard-table smooth. | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.75 |
At first I thought you was talking my jeep with.ans cow pat feel brakes and a hood that is to short.and the lsd which wears out the additive fast The radio works so its not to bad. Then my nashing and wailing stopiped end I felt better I blame Quentin Wilson pre pubic hair top gear presenter. He convinced me with a lopsided Dracula grin that the Cherokee was a cheap range rover that did 20 mpg. It is a ruffdy tuffy 4X4 that has to be driven around manhole covers lest you spill your beer. True story. Before my hip ops ( not music) while driving I drove over a 2 Inch deep trench across the.road and my right hip jumped in the socket. I nearly run a red. But they are cheap to buy bits are expensive Shadow cheaper in lpg and parts. Recently a jack up.big wheels landie fell in the river and 3 kids drowned. Dangerous diy dad didn't go down with the ship. I never driven a lowered car that is better than factory spec. Except proper expensive mods. And notice that pros generally don't go much lower No matter how well geometry is set up lower C of G will cause more push on rather than grip when braking heavy into the apex The car is skittish on the brakes (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 589 Registered: 1-2008 |
I currently have an '02 registered lowered, body kitted and low ratio tyred MG ZR along with a bog standard '92 registered Rover 216 Cabriolet. The MG was bought at auction about 3 months ago to keep me mobile while the Rover had some engine work carried out and my Toyota Estima Lucida having been stolen. The ride of the MG is atrocious. Every little imperfection in the road surface causes it crash, roll and jump all over the road. In comparison (only) the Rover is as smooth as a Rolls! I'll be glad when the new owner comes and takes the MG away! I'll be even gladder when I've completed the new workshop and finished fixing the Shadow so I can glide around town in true comfort. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 937 Registered: 6-2009 |
Well, I've got two spring spacers inserted into each rear spring on SRH33576, and not at the base and top, and it's been working just fine since 2009 with no real difference in ride quality. These springs are so long that you could fit way more than two in with plenty of remaining spring space available for give and take during driving. I think I posted photos way back when I initially installed these, but perhaps not. I still have my set of replacement springs but when getting the rams out proved well-nigh impossible I punted to Plan B. Since Plan B has proven to be entirely effective and satisfactory, well . . . Brian | ||
| richard george yeaman Prolific User Username: richyrich Post Number: 190 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Brian I too have two sets of spring assistors per spring on SRH19529 the car sits nice and level and still has a nice ride quality the ones I used are 52mm they are a tight fit and don't need cable ties to keep them in place. I recently fitted replacement springs to a friends 1970 Shadow 1 without removing the shock absorbers/Dampers it really isn't that difficult to do. Richard. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 945 Registered: 6-2009 |
Richard, I used four of this rubber spring spacer on SRH33576. My installation is just like yours with no cable ties involved. When the car is up on the lift you can thread these in easily at the bottom of the spring and wind them up into the area where the coils are a bit more closely spaced even when expanded. Once the car is lowered those spacers are held in place so tightly that movement has been impossible. They've been in the same spots for five years now. If you have photo documentation regarding your replacement spring fitting technique I'd love to have those for future reference. Brian | ||
| richard george yeaman Prolific User Username: richyrich Post Number: 192 Registered: 4-2012 |
Brian sorry I am not a photo guy but I do think our friend Mr Bill Coburn has it somewhere in Tee One Topics basically jack the rear of the car up and place axle stands in an appropriate place disconnect the half shaft/drive shaft at the hardy spicer tie this up to the rear of the sub frame disconnect the metal hanger that holds the swinging arm from moving too far also the self levelling linkage needs to be disconnected if you disconnected also the bottom nuts and washers securing the shock absorber then place a suitable bottle jack on the swinging arm watch your brake pipes if you then jack the arm downwards you will have enough room to extract your old spring then repeat on the other side and job done. Richard. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 448 Registered: 5-2012 |
Richard You forgot to mention the essential wire coathanger trick. This is documented in Bill Coburns article. The coathanger wire is looped around the damper to prevent it extending. If the damper does extend, it is impossible to slide the spring out. Geoff. | ||
| richard george yeaman Prolific User Username: richyrich Post Number: 193 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Geoff I have fitted four of these springs using just the bottle jack if I do anymore I will use the coat hanger trick I must have a look and see which issue number that has that information. Richard. | ||
| David Lacey Experienced User Username: dlacey Post Number: 21 Registered: 11-2010 |
I like this idea: Replace the subframe flex hoses with a coil of solid brake pipe.. "Citreon 2CV has no brake hoses. The front brakes are inboard and the metal brake lines have a coil in them to allow for flexing . The rear brake pipe goes round the swing arm pivot 4 Times to form a coil. " This could be an 'upgrade'! I will now retire to my bunker as the purist flames ignite!! |
