| Author | Message | ||
     Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 111 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Folks, The rebuilt accumulators are in the '72, and I did a really good job. The brake fluid reservoir is rebuilt. I painted it bright yellow, keeping with my "User Maintenance Alert" scheme, which will eventually include the dipstick for engine oil and transmission fluid, coolant, and so on. I copied and modified Brian's filter design. I have fired up the engine and I have no leaks for the pump circuit, the red warning lights are turning off and everything looks pretty good. I've read what I have found including Brian's monograph, and now I want to confirm that I have a complete understanding of the problem. Six of eight calipers (Front wheels:front and back calipers; Rear wheels:front calipers?), require that the accumulators be charged. Ride control also needs charged accumulators. To charge the accumulators: Run the engine until fluid is recirculating, which indicates that the accumulators are at pressure. To bleed the accumulators: Charge the accumulators. Turn off the engine. Crack open the bleed valves on the ACV until no air is present. Every time I do this, I get frothy fluid. Is this normal? Is this the result of air from inside the accumulator escaping, meaning it will clear, or the result of turbulence at the bleed valve, meaning it won't? To bleed the six calipers that are operated by accumulators: Charge the accumulators before each caliper. Apply moderate pressure to the brake pedal and visit each caliper bleed valve and crack open until no bubbles appear. I have not done this yet, but it seems pretty straight forward. To bleed the master cylinder circuit: These two calipers include only the rear calipers on the rear wheels. I'm going to assume this is just like my Ford truck. No engine or accumulators involved. The assistant will pump the pedal a few times and then hold it down; I will open the bleed valve, capture the escaping fluid and observe bubbles, and close the bleed valve. We will repeat this process until there are no bubbles. Correct? To bleed height control: I need serious help here. I'm not sure where to find the lever that tells the ride control how much controlling the ride needs. I'm also completely lost when it comes to the sequence of manipulations to extract the air. Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Experienced User Username: triumph Post Number: 37 Registered: 7-2012 |
Hi Chris, you really must quote your chassis number as the system changes throughout the whole build of Shadow range. R-R did not really go on Model Year as build numbers was so small,look on it as continuous rolling change, even though there " break points" as '72 package- 13754? This is essential if any GOOD guidance can be given, | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.84 |
Additional To change dot in tank only Ride height fully down Open both caliper nipples nearest brake pedal When fluid stops refill When fluid starts lock up nipples If you have tested the system out on dot 4 Then because the pumps are the only part that actually needs the extra oily 363 the system.will be fine 363 is 100% compatible with dot4 (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.84 |
Start engine Lights out Stop engine Pump system down lights on Any front wheel 100 cc from each caliper with engine running Turn engine off Tea break for 1 hour Then bleed rest of system Master cylinder Remove rat trap The master cylinder lever has two prongs that hit against a alloy spacer between the frames one bolt remove This gives full stroke Once pedal hard Adjust push rod until brake binds Back off till free When on road test have tools ready first sign of binding back off rod The acc diaphragms are hard up against the sphere when system discharged no room for air Frothy fluid leave stand for time Say over night Pumping system up and down will purge the valve bodies of air Once the circulatory bit of the system is purged the rest are dead ends Even badly bled the brakes will work because as the engine runs the fluid moving around purges it self via the tank The fluid moves fast until it gets to the tank then it slows down and dirt air etc.drops out and forms dead bodies in the sump of the tank as sludge Try vacuum on master circuit If you need to flush use dot 4 Then bleed on dot 4 Then change to RR363 Also if the caliper pistols are fully retracted this will push any air into the dump side of the brake valves which ends up back to tank This system is king ingenious If you forget to bleed the ride height the.system will pump the rams up push the.air into the rams Then when the car drops while parked the air will go back to tank Rolls Royce unlined (Message approved by david_gore) |
