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George Constantine
Experienced User
Username: theo

Post Number: 15
Registered: 6-2012
Posted on Monday, 19 May, 2014 - 07:46 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi all,
A puzzling thing happened for the second time now.

On a 1979 Corniche. When slowly driving up a steep hill for a while (The very steep hill in Richmond Park)I get a rubbing/burning on the N/S/rear wheel. The area around the wheel/hub got so hot that smoke started to bellow around the wheel. The brakes are not binding and the wheel hub and wheel are so hot they cannot be touched. I cannot see what causes this or how it occurs. After living the car to stand for a long time and driving on flat road it seems to be OK. I would be very grateful for any advice.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1202
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 19 May, 2014 - 08:03 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Most often it is the trailing arm hoses closing up inside and not releasing the fluid from the caliper.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 807
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Monday, 19 May, 2014 - 09:25 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

George,

I'm with Paul, but will add a bit more information from post I made elsewhere a long while ago:

When driving the car you feel a clunking sensation that seems like a misfire (but you know the engine isn't misfiring).

You are feeling the brakes activate when they shouldn't and you are not applying them at all. One possible cause is that the solenoid valve controls the speed of height control is energized at the wrong time, causing fast leveling behavior when it should be slow. More likely, though, is that you have a plugged restrictor valve that's causing fluid back pressure.

You can also have the same issue, but without the clunking, if your return hoses from the calipers are collapsed (or collapsing and then eventually coming open again). This usually results in the brakes remaining "on enough" to cause things to heat up excessively, often to the point that the hubcap is hot or, in extreme cases, hot enough to melt the grease out of the bearings. The brakes need only be partially activated, and not nearly enough to stop or even slow the car, for the resultant friction heating to occur.


Brian
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.78
Posted on Monday, 19 May, 2014 - 08:49 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Flexible brake hoses can act like one way valves as they deteriorate the inside collapses impeding the return flow of dot

When the brakes are off the hoses ate directly connected to the brake reservoir

So if the caliper bleed screws are opened dot should flow under gravity

If it does not then most likely the hoses have collapsed

If you have trouble getting them off

Underneath the boot carpet are small plastic caps that cover the tops of the screws which hold the fittings to the boot floor

The screws can be released from the top

The hoses are max 20 quid each

There is no advantage in aero type hoses

The service life of hoses

5 to 10 years both types

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 809
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 20 May, 2014 - 01:02 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bob,

Depending on what you mean by "aero type hoses" I have to beg to differ.

If you mean PTFE core hoses I definitely disagree. The internal degradation and ultimate collapsing of conventional brake hoses is secondary to a long, slow interaction between the hose material and the brake fluid. Newer PTFE core hoses eliminate that entirely since PTFE is inert. Since most of these also include stainless braiding (which is really unnecessary in low pressure applications, but "comes standard") and many have another protective sleeve on top of the stainless.

These have a far longer service life than conventional hoses and, given the ungodly tedious nature of replacing the full set, are more than worth the slight increase in cost in my estimation.

Brian
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George Constantine
Experienced User
Username: theo

Post Number: 16
Registered: 6-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 20 May, 2014 - 01:03 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you all for your input. I'll check all that you mentioned. Will this problem only occur when climbing up a hill though and not on an even road and wont both sides be effected?

Cheers

George
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 810
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 20 May, 2014 - 01:09 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

George,

Both sides will not necessarily be affected. When these hoses age and begin their interior collapse that can happen at differential rates. My guess is that you've got a bad hose for one piston on one rear caliper, and that's all it takes to create precisely the frictional heating situation you describe.

I really don't get the "only occur when climbing up a hill" part but I haven't gone through all the "what if-s" to come up with a possible explanation for that.

Brian
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richard george yeaman
Prolific User
Username: richyrich

Post Number: 161
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 20 May, 2014 - 02:31 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

George if you have owned the car for more than five to ten years and haven't had your hoses changed I would change them as a priority. It would help in preserving life and limb!!!!!

Richard.
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.73
Posted on Tuesday, 20 May, 2014 - 08:13 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The stainless braided jobbies do last much longer but the fly guys

These guys are seriously anal when it comes to aero stuff tell me 10 years. Max.

They are not difficult to change

Aero type are fine to use

Bedford C.F. Van ones fit rubber

To me the aero ones look good

The main reason for the use of aero hoses is that some imagine that rubber expands a lot it doesn't

The feel of the pedal is subjective

The power is the same

The feel of the shadow brakes
are artificial on the SS 2 and 16# on the SS 1

If you like cool looking bits under the boot floor then fit aero

Aero are not much more money

Be carefull in sub zero temperatures.

Be carefully with stainless threads galling

I made a threaded whatits out stainless and hand fitted it to another stainless thing and overnight it seized

When I got it apart the threads had picked up. Galling

So do use thread lub

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.73
Posted on Thursday, 22 May, 2014 - 07:47 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Error

Car aero hoses are not the same as hairy planes

And are not temp sensitive

(Message approved by david_gore)

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