| Author | Message | ||
     Efren Almazan Yet to post message Username: kaliman Post Number: 1 Registered: 8-2004 |
Hello God willing they can help me with the following information: 1. - that oils of engine I can use in my silver shadow 69, I don't want to cause leaks, the marks of oil that we have available in Mexico they are Castrol, Mobil, Quaker state. 2. - doesn't the gauge of the temperature of the antifreeze work, did I want to revise the sensor one but didn't I find it, can they tell me with accuracy where to find it? Thank you | ||
| John Dare Unregistered guest Posted From: 144.138.194.201 |
Dear Efren, I will try to keep it simple by saying the use of any of the brands you have mentioned (and as readily available to you) in grades SAE20/50 or 25/50, will adequately serve your engine. What is more important is the FREQUENCY of your oil and filter changes. As for the early Shadow coolant temp. gauges, these are notoriously INaccurate (usually indicating TOO "cool"!) many being so since new, or near new. Despite this, I feel that a auto electrician near you (or in the USA?) could supply you with a new sender, matched to your gauge, which they would probably require for overhaul and recalibration etc. Good Luck. PS. When changing your oil filter,check against your handbook/shop manual to ensure that all of the small "fittings" (washers, cork "cones" etc.)are present (they ARE needed!) as they are sometimes discarded accidentally during (previous) filter changes. Addition from moderator: The "fittings" are included with the factory filters but may not be with "after-market" equivalents. In any case, these should be replaced with the filter element as they have a finite life and break-down/lose sealing capabilities if reused. (Message edited by david_gore on September 03, 2004) (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Efren Almazan New User Username: kaliman Post Number: 2 Registered: 8-2004 |
Dear John My concern is for the synthetic oils or semisynthetics that can eliminate the varnish that seals the engine. Thank you | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 297 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Efren, This is a very controversial issue on this and other R-R/B discussion forums. My personal view is that I would use synthetic oils in vehicles that have done say 100,000 miles [160,000Km] or less but stay with conventional oils for older cars until such time as the engine is overhauled and new seals/gaskets fitted to minimise any oil leaks that may occur from the removal of varnish/crud inside the engine. | ||
| John Dare Unregistered guest Posted From: 144.138.194.41 |
Hello Efren, I have been away, hence my failure to respond earlier. I tend to agree with the above summation and feel that, as originally suggested, a RECOGNIZED brand 20/50w non synthetic oil will serve your engine well. So much has been written about the "best" brands/types/grades of oil, that one could go on forever. I talk to auto.techs and owner/enthusiasts on a regular basis and the GENERAL consensus is what I run with. If your engine "blows up" or "wears out" (prematurely) it WONT be because you used a known (branded name) normal mineral 20/50 grade oil which you changed frequently along with the filter. And when ALL said and done, isnt that what our major concern is all about?. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Andi Lauber Unregistered guest Posted From: 62.240.192.35 |
Hello The last postings sound interesting to me and my praxis to other classic cars/bikes. I use a 20W50 from a local brand, means a semisyntetic todays for a non turbo engine. Even a cheaper semisyntetic oil will have beside a good cleaning and a dirt float charakter, means bringing first dirt to your filter where it belongs to and secondary out of your engine with your next regular oil change. YES, a dirt black oil says the dirt is coming out of your engine and isn't stored in the sump. Not as bad as people usually thinks! Backadays I bought used cars which were not serviced good enough after 2-3 oilchangeintervals oil was coming out mutch more cleaner. Now my SRH33846 hasn't this problem anymore came from a good source. But when I opened ones an engine after using a low price 20W50 semisythetic the cleaning ability is as great that you'll even there find a clear line inside your engine sump from where the dirt was washed down. Area of rockerbox /head looked very nice, just new. Now because of all these oilchangings (perhaps to lowest part on your servicebill)it make no sens to use a FULL-synthetic oil in a 60'/70'-Shadow (versus a high rev F1-car or in a brandnew lorry they want to let it in for the next 40000! miles for receiving testpoints of the press). On the continent: Only IF somebody like to have a very good cold starting Shadow at lower minus degrees, it makes sense that a 5W50 or even 0Wxx (usually more synthetic because of %Additives)does the work better and exaktly during the warming phase you'll have some engine wear ( could have...). Not to say that your starter will thanks to you too. Kind Regards Andi from Zurich /Switzerland (Message approved by david_gore) |
