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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 452
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 01:13 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I'm probably using the wrong terminology but I'm too tired/lazy at the moment to try to find the exact phrasing in the Workshop Manual.

I do know that in a wide variety of situations the manual says you should remove the fuse or cutout for the gear selector before working beneath the car. I seldom do this because I isolate the battery instead, which effectively disables all things electrical in the car.

However, here is a scan of the SY-II series fuseboard:

Fuse Board

No fuse is specifically noted for the gear selector. Is the cutout box on the left that handles the locks, gearshift, and headlamps able to be "popped off" of the fuseboard?

I've never attempted this and, given what I've read over time about the fuse boards, would be hesitant to try that, but wonder if this thing is similar to later relays in that there is some socket setup that it pushes into?

Brian
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Chris Browne
Prolific User
Username: chrisb

Post Number: 111
Registered: 2-2010
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 05:57 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Brian,

Yes, that's the one. You will find it quite difficult to pull out but with careful side to side movement as you pull, it will come out. The more you remove it, the easier it becomes!

Kind regards,

Chris
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 454
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 06:18 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Chris,

Thanks. I think for the most part I will continue my usual "disconnect the battery" method rather than do anything which involves side-to-side levering (even gently) that is sure to flex the fuse board. However, this is good to know in case I ever should have to remove one or the other of these.

Brian
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 1300
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 09:08 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brian,

To save a lot of work, have you considered installing a battery isolating switch on the battery earth[negative] lead?

Easier to use and a worthwhile safety feature if the car short circuits due to wiring/component failure or accident damage.

Be wary of quality especially from chain auto parts stores; I would look for an off-road 4WD or RV specialist who are more likely to offer products made to a specification rather than a price point.
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 456
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 09:20 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David,

I have gone that route before, but at the low cost end.

These days I find it just as easy to unscrew the wingnut that connects the earthing cable to the chassis.

I need to look into switches again, but have never found one that I like as far as ease of installation and access.

Brian
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Geoff Wootton
Prolific User
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 227
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 10:30 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I was going to mention that when I bought my car it came with a battery isolating switch that was touted as an anti-theft device. Virtually useless for that purpose I would guess, but fantastic for working on the car - just lift the boot and flick the battery off.
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Jeffrey McCarthy
Grand Master
Username: jefmac2003

Post Number: 414
Registered: 5-2007
Posted on Saturday, 22 June, 2013 - 11:12 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The advantage of removing the gear shift cut-out of course is that you can still turn the engine over and turn other things on and off if you need to while working.

I just remove the -ve wingnut; although I live in fear that one day I might lose it so eventually I'll get a battery switch; assuming I can find one to fit under the cover.