| Author | Message | ||||||
     William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 134 Registered: 8-2003 |
Ok, I need help but first let me explain a little of what has happened to this point. As I did not like the 55-watt seal beams my ’76 SS (SRE23726) had. I converted to H4 (high/low lamps) and H1 (high lamps) I then installed 70/100 watt bulbs on the H4 lamps and 100 watt bulbs on the H1 lamps. This however causes too much draw on the system and each time (within 3 to 5 minutes) I switched on the high beams the number 4 fuse wire would blow. I would still have low beams but no high beams with the blow fuse. This brings up the first question; if I am reading the diagram correctly I should have no headlamps with that fuse blown. Or am I reading this wrong?  To solve the problem I ran new fused power from the battery to the engine bay. I then disconnected the blue with white striped (high beam hot) wires from the two right hand lamps. Ran that wire to a relay and then new power from the relay to the headlamps. Decided to test this side before doing the left hand side. Now the right high beams are both on when they should be and also when the headlamp switch is turned off. Also I have no right side headlamps at all when the dipswitch is turned to low beams.  The relay is new and I have tested it and it is working fine. As I look at the diagrams this should work but it is not, any ideas? Also looking at the diagram brings up two more questions; 1) what is the purpose and location of the “Head-Safety cut-out” 2) what is the purpose and location of the “Headlamp Safety Relay”? Hope someone has an idea or two! Best regards, Bill | ||||||
| James Aitken New User Username: james_a Post Number: 2 Registered: 7-2004 |
Bill, Talking from a generic (i.e. not Rolls-Royce specific) point of view, a few things I would check: 1 - Does the new relay click when you put on high beam? If you cannot hear it because of other relays clicking, try holding your hand on it and feeling it with a friend doing the switching on-and-off of high beam. Alternatively, grow longer arms. 2 - I don't have a circuit diagram in front of me now, but usually with fused headlights there are seperate fuses for the left and right sides. This is for safety so one is unlikely to experience a total blackout when a fuse blows. 3 - Many cars of the era of Shadows had a thermal current limiter in the headlight circuit. It is basically a bi-metallic strip that gets hot if too much current is passed through it and by differential expansion rates bends and opens a set of contacts. With the contacts open, it cools and re-makes the circuit. The consequence is the headlights will flash off and on - somewhat alarming but better than a total blackout. It is an educated guess, but this might be the "safety relay" and perhaps its contacts are dirty or (very unlikely) it may be the type that needs a manual reset. Educated guess number two is the safety relay gives you low beam in the event of a hi-beam failure... just guessing but it makes sense. I have no idea where to find it - sorry. 4 - What gauge (i.e. cross-sectional area) is the wiring? With 4 by 100W lamps we are talking some 33A plus the other running lights which is likely to make some of the switches and/or wires get a little warmish. The giveaway is the white stuff escaping in an upwards direction. I would set up a voltameter between the "+" battery terminal and the headlight "hot" wire. This will (with the headlamps on) measure the voltage drop in the switches/wires between the battery and the lamp. (You may need to extend the meter probe wires to reach.) If it is more than a volt or so... you have a problem. I would strongly suggest feeling all the wires and switches for heating. Also, make sure your fire extinguisher works. James | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 137 Registered: 8-2003 |
James; Thanks for the input, have done this on other (Non-RR) vehicles before and never a problem like this.  Now to answer your points, in hopes that it helps to find a cure to my problem. 1) Yes, when the dipswitch is pressed (US model) you can hear the relay. Did not need to grow longer arms for this one I had a helper. 2) As I read the diagram there is the #4 fuse which is connected to the whole system and then the #9 and #10 are each running ½ of the system. My question here is as the US DOT required fused headlamp systems to have a “back-up” so all lamps where not lost is the “Head-Safety cut-out” playing some part here? 3) Interesting idea and I hope someone will know if this is correct and where to find it. 4) Wire gauge, the factory installed what appears to be 12 gauge to a union and then broke off to, two 14 gauge one to each of the RH headlamps. I broke the circuit at that union and ran the 12 gauge back to my relay (switched terminal). From my new fuse I am running 10 gauge to the relay and then out to the union, each side (RH & LH) will have a 40 amp relay. With 100 watts per lamp I would think that each lamp would draw 12 amps (12volts x 100 watts) and two would draw 24 and the entire high beam layout would take 48 amps. Please help me if my calculations are off. Therefore, my new power supply is 6 gauge to a fused terminal block (75 amp cap wire and 150 amp cap on the block) then 10 gauge (30 amp) to my relay and also to the union (with a 30 fuse), finally 14-gauge factory wire (15 amp) to each bulb. As to fire extinguisher what is that?  Best regards Bill | ||||||
| Martin Taylor Prolific User Username: martin_taylor Post Number: 38 Registered: 11-2003 |
The Headlamp safety relay is there to ensure that if there is no high beam lights the low beam will automatically turn on. I read that in the Brooklands book on Shadow road tests. From looking at the diagram the headlamp safety relay is normally closed, when the main beam is selected this relay is powered and opens the circuit between the thermal cutout and low beam hence turning the low beam off. The low beam (one side only) can be fed from either the fuse OR the thermal cutout via the safety relay. This would automatically turn on one side low beam if the high beam portion of the dip switch failed etc. To solve your problem and wire with relays, remove the headlight cutout and safety relay and change the fuses to 2 amps which should be more than enough to feed a few relay coils. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 278 Registered: 4-2003 |
Actually, the safety relay is to prevent the two filaments in the outer headlamps from coming on at the same time, otherwise they would burn up when you select high beam. The relay simply allows either the low beam or high beam element to be powered, but not both. Left hand drive cars other than US Spec cars do not have this relay. Instead, the outer headlamps are only wired for low beam. What a shame. I can provide a schematic by e-mail if you need it. I think that the forum resolution is too poor. RT. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 279 Registered: 4-2003 |
Right click on the picture to save it. Item 135 is the safety relay. 134 is the flasher releay, and 136 is the falsher switch on the indicator stalk. 20 years ago I deleted the floor dipper switch and fitted a headlamp sequence relay to our T-Series. Years later, this mod appeared in a service bulletin which I shall post.  | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 280 Registered: 4-2003 |
There are easier ways of doing the sequence circuit, but this is how Crewe recommends it. Also attached is the pinout for the sequencing relay. It is an international ISO standard numbering system, and these relays are available everywhere. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 284 Registered: 4-2003 |
If anyone wants the relay location diagrams, just let me know. | ||||||
| Philip Sproston Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.206.248.10 |
>>If anyone wants the relay location diagrams, just let me know. Yes, please. If you don't want to post them, my email address is sproston at ihug.com.au | ||||||
| Martin Taylor Prolific User Username: martin_taylor Post Number: 41 Registered: 11-2003 |
That makes sense, with two way switching it would also be possible to dip the lights from the coulmn switch with this circuit and with the floor switch if required. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 286 Registered: 4-2003 |
Here are the relay locations referred to in the previous file "change to sequencing.pdf"
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| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 287 Registered: 4-2003 |
PS here is the schematic I used. It functions the same way as the Crewe change, but was easier to implement: remove the dip switch and connect 3 wires behind the driver's kick panel. I located the new sequencing relay behind the driver's kick panelLess than 1 hour's work compared to Crewe's estimate of 3 hours. Martin, It is not feasible to leave the foot switch intact. It can, however, be replaced by a momentary contact switch paralleled to the indicator flasher switch.  | ||||||
| John Kilkenny Unregistered guest Posted From: 138.217.145.190 |
I need to expand somewhat on my previous post. The main purpose of the Safety Relay is to provide emergency current to the headlights low beam circuit if the main headlight fuse (Fuse 4) should blow. This will happen for both high and low beam operation though the fuse would more likely blow on high beam. It will also prevent unwanted energising of the low beam filaments by the flasher switch (via the Thermal Cut-out) if the dip switch has been left in the high beam position. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 289 Registered: 4-2003 |
I didn't want to dig this one up earlier, but you have touched on the silliest Shadow design flaw. Actually, John, if you look at the diagram, high beam itself is not fused. Only low beam and the flasher circuit are fused. Then comes the idiocy of the circuitry. The fused circuits of the low beam are shunted for one low beam by the unfused safety relay. In the end, the fuses are just for fun and the system relies on circuit breakers. Under normal low beam operation, the two circuit breakers are paralleled. Crazy. There is one unlikely circumstance where a fuse or two will blow, and with luck one low beam will function, but the compromise to the rest of the system has always baffled me. From an engineering point of view, the low beam protection system is a no-go. | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 138 Registered: 8-2003 |
Thanks to all for the advise (especially Richard, Bill C. and John K.) The lamps are working fine through their new relays. Turns out that the (UW-P) wire from/to the “headlamp Safety relay” had to be tapped into my new relays. This cured the problems. Thanks again now I shall be able to see at night on these unlighted suburban streets. Best regards, Bill | ||||||
| John Kilkenny Unregistered guest Posted From: 138.217.145.190 |
Hello Richard, It seems that the addition of circuit breakers (which my car SRH1405, and I assume Bill's, does not have) has degraded the straightforward and useful circuitry of earlier Shadows. On my car all headlights and the safety relay are fed via Fuse 4 and the blowing of Fuse 4 allows the normally closed contacts of the Safety Relay to provide emergency current through the Thermal Cut-out. | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 139 Registered: 8-2003 |
John; Are you saying that you have replaced your fuses with breakers? If I am reading your post correctly that is of interest, to me. Regards, Bill | ||||||
| John Kilkenny Unregistered guest Posted From: 138.217.145.190 |
Bill, No, I was commenting on Richard's last post where he mentions circuit breakers, which I assumed was an addition to later cars. While it is certainly easier to reset a circuit breaker than replace a fuse, it does seem rather an overkill, especially if, as Richard says, it has compromised the system. Regards, John | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 140 Registered: 8-2003 |
John; Thanks for the clarification. It just amazes me that manufactures still use too many fuses in cars and have not replaced all with breakers. I know that the cost is greater, or so they say. But, at least here in the States you haven’t been able to build or even remodel a house with out having 100% breakers for decades. Regards, Bill | ||||||
| John Kilkenny Unregistered guest Posted From: 138.217.144.33 |
Bill, There are a couple of reasons why you still find fuses in cars but circuit breakers in houses. Fuses are cheaper, take up less space and rarely blow in a car because the equipment is stable and properly matched to the fuse. However in a house, people attach different items regularly and often overload the system. Also the chance of a non-tradesman being electrocuted when changing a fuse is always possible. Regards, John | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 141 Registered: 8-2003 |
John; I understand that money is the driving factor in fuse vs. breakers. Size I must wonder about as I have seen some breakers on the market that are not really any bigger than a spade type fuse. As to equipment and fuses being properly matched, that may be the case in some areas and with most cars. But, I see what my son’s friends are doing with their cars (even still under warranty) and I just cringe. Besides the huge off-road lamps they add woofers and sub-woofers and amps onto amps. And this still doesn’t count the neon and other lights they like to add. Sad but Hollywood put this into the kids with certain movies. Anyways thank you for the input, I guess I was just dreaming  about what I would like to see in cars of the future, a nice little Square D breaker box tucked into the corner of my boot, that makes it easy to change and upgrade circuits. Best regards, Bill | ||||||
| Ralph Brooks Unregistered guest Posted From: 12.219.243.3 |
There is a difference between AC (household) breakers and DC (auto/aircraft) breakers in their functioning. Also, aircraft usa breakers exclusively; no fuses. I have replaced all the fuses in my motorhome with breakers and am slowly doing the same in my SWII. Cheers Ralph Brooks, 1980 SWII lrl40634 | ||||||
| Greg Churm Unregistered guest Posted From: 139.168.81.249 |
Hi I hate to be a wet blanket, but you have done all this work for nothing. We now have Plus 30 and Plus 50 lamps in H1 and H4 from Narva and Philips which give you the advertised increase in output from the same 55/60watt current drain. Don't believe me, just use your light meter or your eyes. I have fitted these lamps to my Citroen CX Prestige and the difference is very noticeable. I would recommend these to anyone wanting more light from their cars headlamps Greg | ||||||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 225 Registered: 4-2003 |
I too can attest to these lights Greg and have fitted them to five cars. Excellent. | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Grand Master Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 147 Registered: 8-2003 |
Greg; Do not feel like a wet blanket as You may have a better way for most. However, with my eyes at night glare back is a problem. The best solution for me is 70/100 Blue Diamond bulbs they light up the entire neighborhood but no glare from street signs at all. Granted they might not be quite DOT approved but we have them on all our cars and like them a lot. Regards, Bill | ||||||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 274 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Greg, Good to see you are still visiting our forum - hope you are enjoying the on-going RR363 debate!! | ||||||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 25 Registered: 3-2005 |
William, please, from wich brand and/or reference did you upgraded the sealed lamps to H1 and H4 optics: Lucas? hella? Sylvania? I have to do so, as i cannot find spares for the sealed ones in Spain so i need to use continental lamps... regards | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 189 Registered: 8-2003 |
Miguel; There are a lot of companies making conversion lamps. I like and use Hela for the lamp housings and Blue Diamond for the bulbs, as they do not have the glare back of either the yellow or white bulbs. Of course in their wisdom the US Department of Transportation has made to “on-road” use of these blue lights a no-no. So the bulbs I get through shops that specialize in “off-road” vehicles. You shouldn’t but if you do have problems getting the conversion lamps in Spain let me know and I will give you the website of the place here in the US I order from. Best regards, Bill | ||||||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 26 Registered: 3-2005 |
Bill, thank you. I have seen http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003804/c-10101/p-2003804/Ne-600002821/N-111+200729845+600002821/tf-Browse/sct-body/s-10101/th-StoreCatalogDisplay/ss-10101 and http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2003812/c-10101/p-2003812/Ne-600002821/N-111+200729845+600002821/tf-Browse/sct-body/s-10101/th-StoreCatalogDisplay/ss-10101 but i feel, much better i shall ask here in a big dealer... I will keept you informed! Thanks again! | ||||||
| Harry Kuurio Experienced User Username: harry_kuurio Post Number: 26 Registered: 4-2004 |
Miguel, I went for cont. H4's from sealed beams for the same reasons as you do. Mine are Cibie Valeo (I only changed the outer ones to start from) and they fitted just fine. Cost: 25 euros each. Now the bomb: it's the same Ladas use (and probably many other makes of a certain age). Shouldn't be a prob at all. Cibie Valeo is a major manufacturer with good reputation, so no worries there either. I have SS2, but isn't the diameter of the headlamp just the same in earlier Shadows? DH | ||||||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 27 Registered: 3-2005 |
Harry, I think so. It seems to be the same kind of optics used by most of 60´s & 70´s cars here: the best seller Seat 124, Seat 1500, Seat 850, etc...(they were clones -under licence- of the FIAT same named cars...I beleive to remember that Lada Niva uses many of the FIAT/SEAT 124 electrical parts: the cockpit, lenses, etc...)I think will not be a problem to find... new or secon handed from off road cars reclycling dealers. I will say you what happens... regards. | ||||||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 191 Registered: 8-2003 |
Miguel; To get an price idea on Hella http://shop.store.yahoo.com/classicgarage/accessories-hella-lights-hella-halogen-european-style-headlamps.html Best regards, Bill | ||||||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 28 Registered: 3-2005 |
Thank you Bill. I will compare prices and shall buy them. | ||||||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 389 Registered: 9-2004 |
Well i cannot agree on the lights needing to be upgraded,with the correctly adjusted Lucas sealed beams for the Uk they are just brilliant. The styling is in total harmony with the car of that era. Anything different would just not be in keeping with originality. I have driven with the LHD type and they are ok. Is there some other reason that the veiw ahead canot be seen clearly. In regard to the conversion will the saftey circut still operate if needed! | ||||||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 116 Registered: 2-2005 |
Hola! Como estas Miguel, and others. Headlights are one of those subjects where personal preferences do play a large part. I agree with Patrick that properly adjusted Lucas units are not at all bad. However, I am of the opinion that you can never have too much lightpower, and if you can't easily replace the Lucas's, definite gains can be made with a conversion set of lenses and bulbs. However, some conversions are just snake-oil, especially some that purport to be of the modern HID style. If you must replace, I would keep in mind the following: 1/CIBIE have been market leaders in the rally and aftermarket 4WD field for decades. (PIAA also make brilliant lights and pioneered true projector technology, but are horrendously expensive and will destroy any semblence of originality, and require more depth to fit, new mountings and fabrication, etc.) CIBIE's will drop straight in. 2/Several years ago, one of the prominent Australian car magazines used to do accurate and scientific assessment of aftermarket headlights and driving lights. Almost always, CIBIE came out on top. Hella were just OK. 3/The headlamps fitted to my 1990 Bentley from the factory are quad 7" Cibies, and I recall in a contemporary roadtest were described as the most brilliant headlamps of any car ever driven by that reporter bar none, or words to that effect. I must unbiasly agree - of all the vehicles I've driven the Bentley (fitted with Phillips plus globes) has the best standard lighting of any of my present or past cars. No doubt this is in large part due to no other car I can readily think of having a quad 7" system as standard, the usual quad format being 5 3/4". With lights, SIZE DOES MATTER. Look at even the current rally cars on night stages...are they adorned with compact little projector lamps? No, they have bloody great CIBIE Super Oscars or similar hanging off them. 4/The plus 30 and plus 50 bulbs mentioned above are brilliant, the Phillips ones costing more than the Narva, but lasting much longer and with less deterioration in the bulb clarity over time. (the type of filament material affects how quickly the bulb "blackens", and Phillips use the best) 5/The Cibies reflectors and lenses look "standard" and will not affect the appearance of originality. So, all in all, and for what my humble opinion is worth (and from past years of amatuer rallying), I would recommend CIBIE lenses with the Phillips bulbs as above. As I said, personal preference plays a large part, but be warned: the main reason most new cars use so-called HID and projector technology and fancy looking fluted reflectors and clear lenses is to get adequate lighting in the compact confines dictated by the styling on modern vehicles, mixed with an equal portion of fashion. The glittery complex reflectors also make them look "high-tech". With the above set-up you can watch koalas and sundry marsupials fall blinded and stunned from trees, and vapourise 'roo's before you hit them.  Finally make sure you get the correct driving offset ie/ Left-hand drive or Right-hand drive for your vehicle, and spend time adjusting them properly. (LHD lights on a RHD car or vice versa are impossible to adjust in, and will destroy oncoming driver's retinas!  ) Hope this is helpful. GN. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 676 Registered: 4-2003 |
I agree entirely with Gordon. Cibié IODE is a very superior lamp, especially the 7" H4s with Philips bulbs for later cars. On those rare occasions these days that you can use high beam, there is nothing old or new quite like them. Low beam is also without peer. Anyone complaining of poor lighting on a postwar car is not even trying. I even fitted them to my R-Type in all 4 positions, rewiring the fog lamp circuit to be driving lamps which are always out of circuit on low beam. The lighting is sensational. Incidentally, for MkVI and R-Types a conversion is needed to reduce the headlamp diameter to 7", but on export cars with twin foglamps the 7" pops straight into the fog lamp mounting with no modification or adaptor whatsoever. However, Volvo 164 lamps are the same size as the original headlamps and will fit straight in so you can preserve those pretty, expensive, but useless originals in the attic. The final improvement on older cars is to fit relays at the headlamps with a power trunk feed and circuit breakers. Changing from drive on the left to drive on the right for my daily driver was simply a matter of changing the two outer HCR lamps, hardly what I would call a conversion. The new ones are Cibié like the originals of course. The centre lamps are both unidirectional Cibié CRs, identified by the double-headed arrow on the lens. The outer HCR lenses have arrows pointing to the direction to which the z-beam dips: that is, the near side (left viewed from the diver's seat for drive on the left, and right for drrive on the right). On our T-Series, 4 Cibié semi-sealed beam lamps have been fitted since the 1970s in place of the original sealed beams. I think they are H1 single beam and H4 dual beam lamps. I fitted those near-invisible plastic stone protectors. Those headlamps are brilliant too but, not quite as good as the 7" ones. As stated, big is good in lighting. Any old BMW, for example an E30, uses 5 3/4" lamps which pop straight onto a Silver Shadow, although the lenses are rather flat outwardly. 1987 and earlier E30s have the most suitable twin-beam lamps without the exaggerated parking lamp recess inside. Most are Hella, so best opt for an equivalent Cibié set. Bulb types indeed have all to do with personal preference, but the Philips bulbs are brilliant in my opinion. Some people swear by Xenon lamps, but they are expensive and illegal in many countries. As usual, you can buy lamps from Crewe for over A$200 each, or go straight to Cibié and buy them for A$70. Oh, and when I was a kid, Cibié Super Oscars were compulsory on the utes of any self-respecting cocky. There was nothing even close in performance. RT. | ||||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 677 Registered: 4-2003 |
Pat, I agree that the Lucas lamps are very good. It's just that Cibés are fantastic. To answer your question, the circuitry of a Shadow is compatible with replacement headlamps without any changes at all. Safety and functionality will not be affected in a negative way. However, the original circuitry leaves a lot to be desired in the first place. The wiring is also ageing now (remember those slow power windows), and benefits from the lower power requirements of modern bulbs alone. It can be readily and properly improved by fitting a trunk power feed, two new relays (one for high beam and one for low beam), a sequencing relay to replace the floor dip switch, and four circuit breakers (one for the trunk power feed, one for high beam and one for each low beam). The existing wiring can stay intact, although there will be redundant parts. The safety relay will is still functional and still provides emergency low-beam in case of a system failure. The reason we are such lighting feaks is that we need it downunder. In Europe high beam can almost never be used. In country Australia it is needed all the time. With so much wildlife around you can be sure that top quality lighting or better is essential. RT. | ||||||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 390 Registered: 9-2004 |
Richard point taken,however my windows on the SS2 go like the clappers all most to fast,the SS1 are not that fast but adequate. But now i ask why do we need them apart from the occasional passing of day through an open window with the locals and they are not in any rush. We have A/Con, when it works on the SS2 that is. we never get lost with the sat nav,no need to beckon help. Of course i can see through all my glass day or night as i have no steaming up,no leaking window rubbers,Door shut rubbers ok, matrix ok,fresh air drains not blocked,etc. As for the wireing in my opinon it will last for years,unless you have a mouse attack or it has been changed from the original,have seen many add on's that are not original with cars when made, wire related and conection problems that cause more problems and damage than is sometimes worth. Main live feeds through the door loom is faverite Total burn out! | ||||||
| Harry Kuurio Experienced User Username: harry_kuurio Post Number: 28 Registered: 4-2004 |
Hi, Sealed beams are illegal here in Finland for useing in place of H4s, unless one is driving a "historic" vehicle over 30 years of age. As I told earlier, I changed the outer headlamps to Cibie Valeo's - in the attached pic one can see the little difference they make compared to inner, sealed beams. And, of course, they are much more economical in the long run, also allowing experimenting different types of bulbs. DH  | ||||||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 391 Registered: 9-2004 |
Hi Harry,yes they are not bad,however i still will go with the lucas as they just look correct to me. maybe im getting to set in my ways.  | ||||||
| Miguel A. Garcia Frequent User Username: magarcia Post Number: 82 Registered: 3-2005 |
I have finally upgraded the front lenses from the sealed ones to H1 and H4 optic lamps. I have mounted HELLA optics. I used the kit sold at http://store.yahoo.com/classicgarage/ with 55/60w H1 and H4 Philips lamps (30% brigther). The difference in intensity is just IMPRESSIVE. White and clear ligts is projected from both lenses, in both low and high beams. Other different thing is stetical. The surface of lenses are FLAT in both H1 and H4 lenses, and H4 is 20mm outer than H1 lens, so they are not identical. I do not like how they look once fitted. I shall upload a pic tonite from home so you can see yourself. My opinion: pro: Goog light against: BAD, very BAD look. If i know that H4 is so different in look and dimensions to H1, I WOULD NOT BUY THEM. |
