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Gabriël Viljoen
Frequent User
Username: gabriel

Post Number: 14
Registered: 3-2004
Posted on Monday, 09 August, 2004 - 07:43 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good day

My ventilation system is not working properly. I realised that some of the small electric motors operating the air flaps are not operating at all. These I have opened, cleaned and oiled. They are fine now. Because of a long period of disuse they have a small bit of rust at oiling point.

My upper air will not work on station one, but when I pull it further out, it starts to let the air through.

The same with the air conditioner suction throttle motor. It will not work on station one and two, but starts to work on station 3 and station 4 (very cold).

This is not a fault with the motor, as they work on all stations when tested with another terminal (eg upper temperature terminal). I suppose this has to be a wiring fault.

I have the wiring diagrams, but where do I start looking?

The fuses must be fine as the motors work on some stations, but not all.

I checked behind the Upper / lower air switches, and cannot see any disconected wires.

Regards

Gabriël Viljoen
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Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 218
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 09 August, 2004 - 09:53 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Check the diodes in the fuze box.
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William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger

Post Number: 135
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 08:40 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gabriel;

I agree with Bill check all your diodes first or maybe better just replace them. They are not expensive and easy to obtain. If that doesn’t work then I would suggest removing and checking the control unit. I do not remember the year of your car but I am assuming a SS I. I did this to my ’76 (SRE23726) and found a bad connection on the circuit board. I have written a small spreadsheet to help in doing a continuity check, if you would like a copy I can email you it.

Best regards,
Bill
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Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 219
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 08:56 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bill/ Can't remember how to get an email to you (age and incompetance). Could I also have a copy of your spreadsheet. I also have a diagram in Tee One Topics relative to your headlight problem which I will send you. Hopefully you know how to contact me. Cheers

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William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger

Post Number: 136
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 09:47 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bill;

Sorry age must be hitting me also you can get me at whtrovinger@yahoo.com.
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 39
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 07:07 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

With the exception of the far left setting of the A/C Suction throttle motor the cause is unlikely to be a diode, (That particular diode is on spade connectors behind the glove box if anyone ever needs to find it).
I had a smimilar problem when an alarm was installed and one of the plugs became half detached from the circuit board behind the heater controls.
Another failure point is where the loom plugs are attached to the front of the firewall, particularly after engine washing :-(
I would suggest checking for power at the appropriate colours at the firewall first, if none is present and the connections are not corroded to dust like mine were pop the side cover off the center console and check the plugs are attached, if it looks ok I would remove the woodwork and pop the control panel out, it can be tested in situ if you are a contortionist but is easer once remmoved which only takes a few minutes.
Then test for power on the appropriate colours according to the diagram.
I would suspect a loose or corroded connection rather than a burnt track as these little motors seem very solid, one in mine must have been ceased for years (upper temp), once I freed up the arm the motor ticked away.
The diodes mostly control the recirculation flaps.
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Gabriël Viljoen
Frequent User
Username: gabriel

Post Number: 15
Registered: 3-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 07:26 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Some of the small motors are very noisy - I suppose from years of disuse.

I have opened some of them, cleaned them well, greased and oiled them. Why are they still noisy? Is there anything I can do to make them less noisy?

Also, does the resurculatory flaps only open
when using the air conditioner? Mine won't open on any other setting. Is this the way it is suppose to work?

Gabriel
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Martin Taylor
Prolific User
Username: martin_taylor

Post Number: 40
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 08:43 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That is the way they are wired and meant to work, with a little switch gear the driver or passenger could have the option of operating them independently of the A/C system.
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Gabriël Viljoen
Frequent User
Username: gabriel

Post Number: 16
Registered: 3-2004
Posted on Tuesday, 10 August, 2004 - 08:51 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Martin

My car is a 1971 Shadow I. I have not noticed a switch gear. I can only operated the recirculatory flaps by turning the upper air to cold (Air Con). Am I missing a switch somewhere? I haven't noticed any other switches.

Please supply more details.

Gabriel
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 288
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Wednesday, 11 August, 2004 - 04:00 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Diodes: use 1N4001, 1N4002, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 etc, available for 50 cents at Radio Shack or any outlet that still bothers to sell them. An industrial electrical store is a good bet as they are virtually obliged to sell them as a service to main customers. Don't bother to test the old ones: remove the diode board and replace the lot. They will need replacing sometime anyhow.