| Author | Message | ||
     Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov New User Username: soviet Post Number: 10 Registered: 2-2013 |
This week I am going to face my fears and have a look around for a large drum in which to boil up my Camargue engine block. However, to remove the cylinder liners you need a cylinder liner removal tool which I see they have for hire in UK if you are a club member. I have contemplated manufacturing my own removal tool from photographs I have seen, however, just wondering if anybody has been down this path before. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1488 Registered: 4-2003 |
Vlad, There is a tale told that years ago a professional mechanic faced with a clogged filthy engine simply removed the heads, sump and timing gear cover and 'boiled' the rest in a tank designed for the purpose; but it seems, not for aluminium. All the bits were clean but there was no block. Even without boiling, the block should be treated with great deference since they have been known to distort and crack. Strip the block of everything but the liners. Get a tool made up, you can work out the dimensions. You need a tube slightly larger than the lip at the top of the liner with its end closed of with a plate at least 3/4" thick. Then you need a disc again about 1/2" thick rebated so that it fits comfortably in the bottom of the liner. Last bit is a bloody big screw to go through the top of the tube and the pulling plate at the bottom. Ideally get it get it in buttress thread but new thread on good steel should do the job. Initially clean the block and passageways particularly the oil galleries that run for and aft above the crankshaft. If the grime is resistant consult approriate manufacturers for advice. Getting the liners out is hazardous unless you ignore common sense. They will as likely be glued in chemically as well as physically. The vital step is to heat the block. The book says put it in the oven and heat it to some 350 degrees or thereabouts. I am a keek cook but my oven is not big enough for an engine block! I put the block on carpenters stands, (by now its can be lifted by two people) rig up two blowed heater that will run when they are discharging hot air vertically and place them un der the base of the block. Next buy a fire blanket - Bunnings have them. Cover the block turn the heaters on and retire to the corner to read a book. After about an hour you should be able to fry some eggs and bacon on the block. Clear away the blanket heaters et al trying not to burn yourself too badly insert the new tool you have made up tighten it up then really tighten it.. It is difficult to say how much strain to pu on the tool. There have been cases of cracking the bottom of the crankcase. So far with the few I have done I have been rewarded by the sound of a light crack when the 'glue finally gave up. If your nerve fails you can get a hole cut in your puller tube so that you can shovel dry ice into the liner which combined with the heat the shrinkage will certainly loosen the grip. I should also mention that I bout a 5 litre container of WD40 and start the whole exercise by trickling the stuff down the sides of the liners through the coolant holes and let it soak in. Anyway I think this is covered in Tee One Topics, if not I will write it up. | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Experienced User Username: soviet Post Number: 11 Registered: 2-2013 |
Thanks Bill for the info. I feel that I should try to save this block by at least trying to salvage it rather than chucking it in the too hard basket and getting another engine from the states or from a chap in Brisbane. The Brisbane price is ten grand exchange and the Nevada price is about 9 grand but they put an uprated cam in it which they claim gives another 100 hp. The problem with getting it from the USA is that they will want core exchange and if the people don't do the right thing it is a long way to go to sort the matter either legally or violently. Do you know of any members who have successfully dealt with an outfit called The Touring Shoppe? Anyway I was aware of the chances of cracking the block and I considered using a fine thread 1" thick as opposed to using the coarse thread I see in the manual. Before receiving your information I was going to emerse the block in a rain water solution and heat it to boiling which is 100C but maybe your idea of heaters is better. Using a lazer thermometer I will be able to accurately measure how hot the block is getting. Which book are you refering to when you say "350 degrees " and is that F or C. I am simply unwilling to transpant a US block into the Camargue. A Cadillac 500 ci V8 is a bullet proof engine and would do the trick but I believe RR/B should not be corrupted with alternative makes. On a different but equally important matter, I am quite sick of dealing with Shannons for insurance, the car is stored in a very safe place and the price they are prepared to insure it for would make its replacement impossible in the rare event something happens to it. Also, also I found their phone rep to be quite arrogant. Frankly, I think they have got too much business over too long a time and think they be a-holes without any repercussions. So if you know of an alterative please let me know. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1224 Registered: 4-2003 |
Vladimir, if you have access to a good reliable insurance broker ask if they could get some quotes for insuring your car after providing full details of the car, usage, garaging etc so they can properly assess the risk. I have found the mainstream car insurance companies are a waste of time as they see classic car owners as a cash cow waiting to be milked as the risk factor of a claim is much less for these cars. The brokers usually have access to insurers who are willing to insure classic cars at premiums that are less than those charged by the mainstream insurers. One condition I would personally include is "retention by owner if car is technically written off without informing the registration authorities"; I know of a few cars that have been rebuilt to a very high standard by the owner using the insurance pay out from the insurer "writing off" the car. You would need to investigate whether this is still possible as changes to registration rules prevent "written off" cars being re-registered to control the illegal rebirthing trade. P.S. You can be certain the temperature is Fahrenheit and not Celsius. | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 453 Registered: 1-2008 |
Vladimir: Do you read any classic car magazines? I've found them to be an invaluable source of information on all aspects of running older cars and the classified ads will give you the names & addresses of brokers/insurers who will offer far more competitive quotes. My Shadow has been covered Fully Comprehensive with an agreed valuation of £11K for little more than £200 for the past 5 years. In the early days that also included full UK and EU breakdown cover and also 'hire & reward' for wedding use. | ||
| Leho Proos Experienced User Username: lehoproos Post Number: 17 Registered: 8-2006 |
Vladimir There was a recent discussion regarding the Touring Shoppe, in Las Vegas, on the US RROC forum. One suggestion was to search (eg Google) for 'Wayne McMinimet', which, it was claimed, turned up some "interesting reading". There was also a suggestion for a visit to the premises (3050 W Sirius Ave, Las Vegas, NV - have a look on Google Streetview) before placing an order/contract. Good Luck. Leho | ||
| Geoff Wootton Frequent User Username: dounraey Post Number: 89 Registered: 5-2012 |
Jan: Just a quick question. How much is road tax in the UK for a Silver Shadow. Also, are cars manufactured before 1973 still tax exempt. Has this year of manufacture date been updated. | ||
| Leho Proos Experienced User Username: lehoproos Post Number: 18 Registered: 8-2006 |
Re my previous posting about Touring Shoppe. Correct spelling is McMiniment. Leho | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 454 Registered: 1-2008 |
Geoff: The yearly price for VED (Vehicle Excise Duty) is a flat rate of £220 for all cars over 1549cc if manufactured between 1/Jan/1973 and 1/Feb/2001. If less than 1549cc the rate is only £135. A 6 month disc can be obtained for a little over half of those figures. The previously rolling 30 year rule for free VED was fixed at 1973 after just a couple of years. A pity as just another 3 years and my Shadow would have got in under the wire. Fortunately I get a free VED for one car as part of my disability/incapacity benefits. As it is now compulsory to have car insurance for all cars registered for road use even if currently off road and unroadworthy it's fortunate that you can *SORN* them for free although the SORN has to be renewed annually or sooner if the car changes hands. *Statutory Off Road Notification* | ||
| Geoff Wootton Frequent User Username: dounraey Post Number: 90 Registered: 5-2012 |
Many thanks for that info Jan. | ||
| Randy Roberson Prolific User Username: wascator Post Number: 114 Registered: 5-2009 |
Great topic and I will enjoy following it. Too bad that it is at Vladimir's expense; seems like voyeurism in a way. I wish I could be there in person to see it happen! Heat will work wonders: we routinely replace wrist (gudgeon) pin bushings in connecting rods by placing the nozzle of a steam cleaner to push steam up the oil passage, and cover the small end with "paper machine felt" to help hold the heat in. We have a freezer with the bushings stacked inside, and after a while of heating the rod this way they will slip right in. I will say: I regret much more the times I did not try because I feared the worst, than the times I tried and something went wrong. It usually is not nearly as bad as I expected. I use this experience now to encourage my young ones. |
