| Author | Message | |||
     Nigel Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.87.53.240 |
How do you fit the secondary seals correctly. I recently bought UT13535PB seals to fit to my front doors to eliminate the annoying door whistle at speeds above 90kph. They have a lovely removable tape to expose the sticky bit and everything seems simple. I assume you start at the corner and stick the seal to the concave edge that has developed over time. Before I stuff up $138 for each seal can anyone advise if there is a correct technique for attaching these. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 250 Registered: 4-2003 |
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| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 251 Registered: 4-2003 |
I fitted these wonderful seals to our Turbo R and T-Series in minutes. Yes, start from the corner after cleaning the frame down very thoroughly with methylated spirits.. Do the top first. The inner lip tucks behind the original seal. Nifty, but expensive. Worth it though. See the attached sketch to be sure. Sorry about the quality. I had trouble uploading the sketch:  | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 255 Registered: 4-2003 |
A few pictures tell a thousand words on correctly installed secondary seals.  | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 256 Registered: 4-2003 |
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| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 257 Registered: 4-2003 |
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| John Shostrom New User Username: silvawraith2 Post Number: 5 Registered: 4-2005 |
This response is rather late ... but RIchard, you did a marvellous job! I also fitted the secondary seals to all four doors on my 1982 Silver Spirit, and they completely transformed the car. Made it quieter than a Church on Tuesday I must say. Happy motoring! | |||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 409 Registered: 4-2003 |
I must say I have been very impressed with these. I recently had a late SSII with them fitted and my only criticism is that one door need noticeably more pull than the other which was clearly the result of the seals. Maybe they need trimming ever so slightly. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 738 Registered: 4-2003 |
A quick tip: When the seals are new, the rear door lips need to find a set. When closed, run a credit card occasionally between the B-Pillar and the new rear door seals over the first few weeks. The seal will soon find its proper position. RT.  | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 410 Registered: 9-2004 |
I am not convinced, i look at my doors and think that secondry rubbers cannot look as tidy with the original rubbers flush with chrome surround, then i do a brisk run with the wind head on and the wind noise is just horrible. I am sure that some of the cause could be air pressure within lifting the window frames away from the original seal,if so is there a cure. I agree fitting secondry rubbers is the cure but to have the door operating in a sticking manner is something i could not except on a Rolls Royce. | |||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 410 Registered: 4-2003 |
really Pat it is not that bad. They are very inconspicuous in fact I did not notice them having had the the car for a few days until the owner commented on them. Much embarrassment. It just means you need to pull the door a bit harder to open it. The problem is far outweighed by the benefits. Does anyone have a skerrick of the seal because I have the notion to fit them to a certain PVI which will be utilised in the new years for our beloved one I see! | |||
| kevin steel Frequent User Username: kevin_steel Post Number: 14 Registered: 9-2003 |
hi guys speaking of door seals,i have a shadow 1 and the door rubbers are sadly breaking down , would love to know if any knows where i can get a new door seal for the both front doors and how much would they be many thanks regards kev | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 739 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well, Pat, The secondary seals were standard production items fitted to all new cars from the early 1990s. Fitted properly, the seals should not make the doors stick. Unfortunately, my 5-year-old daughter has no problem opening ours. They are impressive on the Turbo R, but even more so on the T-Series. Unless you drive exclusively in the city, these cars need secondary seals. They also suit Silver Clouds. As for appearance, in my opinion filling the gap between the pillar and door frame is purely an improvement. The only drawback is the price. RT. | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 411 Registered: 9-2004 |
Bill in that case you have me convinced,it is a job i will do as soon as time permits. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 740 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bill, I'll post you a sample today. RT. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 741 Registered: 4-2003 |
Original Shadow primary door seals, front and rear, cost £80 each +VAT/GST at the regular outlets. | |||
| kevin steel Frequent User Username: kevin_steel Post Number: 15 Registered: 9-2003 |
hi guys those door rubbers are a bit pricey,i ve just done a little research and was wondering if anyone has used the door rubber profile from scotts old auto rubber for the shadow 1 which is about $14 a metre and use the glue to make the joins, what do u guys think, is it worth it regards kev | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 742 Registered: 4-2003 |
Kev, It's always worth a try. Unfortunately, from Holdens to R-R I have mostly been disappointed searching for alternatives, and have shelled out the cash for OEM seals in the end. Clark Rubber have a good range of extruded rubber, and have retail outlets everywhere. They also promise suitable seals for a wide range of cars. www.clarkrubber.com.au I did find a suitable extrusion at Clark for my R-Type windscreen seal and a few other applications too. You may just get lucky. RT. | |||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 36 Registered: 3-2005 |
Really a great job!! Where are them available from? thanks | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 743 Registered: 4-2003 |
Secondary door seals are available at all Crewe spares outlets, part number UT13535PB. They are expensive for what they are at around £45 +VAT each, but you may find a 20% discount as I usually enjoy. The same part fits all four doors from Silver Clouds to SZs. Its a simple case of pay up, forget the price, and enjoy the enormous improvement. Best go e-shopping in the UK at Introcar/Montague/Healey/Jack Barclay etc. The seals are very light and shipping is cheap. Expect 2 day delivery in the EU. RT. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 746 Registered: 4-2003 |
In case someone gets lucky with an alternative secondary door seal extrusion, here are pictures and dimensions of the genuine ones. RT.  | |||
| Miguel A. Garcia Experienced User Username: magarcia Post Number: 38 Registered: 3-2005 |
Hello, I asked for the secondary seals for SRH3430 to www.beare-essentials.co.uk and this is the answer i got: "...The secondary door seal only fit Silver Spirit not Shadow. Regards ..." Is it right? | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 785 Registered: 4-2003 |
They fit Clouds, Shadows and SZ perfectly. They may not be suitable for some coachbuilt cars. I have had them for years on all four doors of a '72 standard saloon. Make sure that you order UT13535PB. | |||
| Bill Coburn Grand Master Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 426 Registered: 4-2003 |
I have a Shadow II with the seals on and they fit perfectly | |||
| Phil Black Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.134.132.228 |
Do I have to have these secondry seals and is it cheaper than getting the new main seals. Also can I get new rubber seals for the front quarter vent type swivilling windows on my 67 model as they too look old and worn. (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| William H. Trovinger II Prolific User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 209 Registered: 8-2003 |
Richard; Not to sound dumb but here it goes...... Are the seals really blue? or is my monitor playing games on me? Thanks, Bill | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 786 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bill, The seals are black. Maybe the flash makes them look slightly blue in the picture. RT. | |||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Experienced User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 16 Registered: 5-2007 |
Just to revisit this, has anyone found a source for the UT13535PB (what brand do I ask for?)in Australia or do they have to be ordered from the UK? Jeff SRH20280 | |||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Experienced User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 17 Registered: 5-2007 |
Sorry about that - obviously it's a Crewe spares part. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1268 Registered: 4-2003 |
A message to the Man from Snowy River (or is it the Khankoban Kid or Geehi Giant ?). In the last decades I have bought barely a part in Australia for a Bentley apart from pistons from Melbourne for my R-Type in Canberra and from Adelaide for a Silver Dawn in Switzerland. I import almost everything privately from the UK apart from transmission components for the THM400 which are standard GM items. Seriously, a few of us are working on a plan to make a second shipment of parts from the UK to Australia very soon. These are components declared unavailble, but may include parts which are seriously overpriced locally, mainly for SY and SZ cars. Earlier this year we shipped SZ spheres and SC-SY oil filter elements, but this time we will expand it to disc rotors and fuel filter elements for a start. It is an at-cost exercise for the benefit of our club members and friends. If there is enough interest in secondary door seals, then we may easily include a few sets of those too thereby minimising air freight costs. I fitted them to our '72 T-Series and Turbo R, and they are incredibly effective. These seals are expensive for what they are, but work so well that they are worth it. You may go to Clarke Rubber and see if they have a suitable equivalent based on the dimensions and pictures I have already posted. http://www.whitepages.com.au/wp/busSearch.do;jsessionid=cf1eafe7f93daffffffffa2a10fc23fcd307?subscriberName=CLARK+RUBBER&state=VIC&viewall=y (highlight the above and paste it to your browser) If you do find a suitable extrusion there, it will be at a very small fraction of the Crewe price, so do let us know. They have all manner of extrusions. The windscreen seal on my R-Type is from Clarke and is a perfect match. RT. | |||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1273 Registered: 4-2003 |
Sorry, that should be the Khancoban Kid should it ? I always forget.
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| ROS105220 Unregistered guest Posted From: 41.133.4.212 |
Dear Richard, I read your articles on the secondary door rubbers with great interest, as I have an annoying and persistent problem with wind-whistle on my 1975 Rolls-Royce Corniche Fixed-head Coupe (CRH 20711). I don’t have a Silver Shadow close by to compare my Corniche door rubbers to, but I presume that if the secondary rubbers fit the Shadow, they’ll also fit the Corniche FHC equally well? The Corniche doors are longer, so one therefore needs to order 3 rubbers instead of 2 (front door only on the Corniche, obviously). I have already replaced the door rubbers with new genuine Crewe parts ordered from Flying Spares in the UK, but without much success in terms of wind whistle. Flying Spares (John Creasey) tell me they have just received new shipments of much softer door rubbers (the Crewe parts are actually too hard). John Creasey is fairly certain that the secondary door rubbers won't work on the Corniche/Shadow, but there are postings on the forum from Shadow owners who have fitted them successfully. I am considering ordering the newer softer rubbers AND the secondary door seals, despite what Flying Spares say, and despite the cost, ans I am really very intent on eliminating the wind noise. What do you think? Kind regards, JOHN ROOS Cape Town, South Africa Dr.j.roos@iafrica.com (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 5 Registered: 2-2013 |
I know this thread is about secondary door seals, I am hoping someone can offer guidance on replacing the first seal (the extrusion which attaches to the door opening). My car has just returned from the paint shop and I have new seals in hand from replacement parts. However, the seal seems to fit into a track which is VERY tight....me thinks there must be a trick and hopefully someone will share thanks Ed | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 636 Registered: 6-2009 |
Ed, Though I've not replaced door seals this way, I have dealt with getting other rubber bits to slide into tight channels. (OK, stop snickering.) I would suggest that you try using water based lubricant of an intimate/personal nature and see where that gets you. Liquid would probably work better for this than gel. (Yes, I am serious. Don't laugh unless you've tried some of these unconventional applications.) Brian | |||
| Edward Mckinley New User Username: ed_mckinley Post Number: 6 Registered: 2-2013 |
I'll try anything at this point. I was wondering if it would be better with the lube gel or maybe talcum powder? Thanks Brian | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 637 Registered: 6-2009 |
Ed, All I can tell you is that the use of Astroglide or the like will bring to mind the old US Southern phrase: "Slicker 'n snot on a doorknob." It doesn't stay that way forever, but if you have a small syringe handy you can refresh spots along the track if necessary. Usually, if you work relatively quickly (which isn't *really* quickly) this stuff will remain slick at least as long as you need it to. If you get overflow from the track it cleans up with a damp cloth. I find that the gel is not optimal in smaller, tighter spaces because it doesn't flow/creep. The liquid stuff will. I have never tried talcum or graphite for this sort of thing. Either would be messy, and I question whether you could get enough coverage to keep things feeding along the groove smoothly. Brian |
