Post Number: 119
|Posted on Monday, 29 October, 2012 - 12:49 am: |
The past several weeks of my life have not been particularly good ones on a number of fronts, including working on both my SS-II and SW-II. This thread concerns the SW-II.
After getting my accumulator & control valve back in and testing that disaster struck: The fan in the car was either loose (which is what I suspect now) or simply self destructed due to some flaw. I lost one entire blade, which decided to lodge part of itself in the radiator, piercing a tube, plus the tip of another.
Obviously, the radiator is going to have to come out and the hood/bonnet is going to have to be taken off and reinstalled as part of that.
I already have the header tank out and will probably get the fan shroud out today.
If anyone has specific tips, tricks, or suggestions about how this whole process should be approached please share.
Post Number: 56
|Posted on Monday, 29 October, 2012 - 01:58 am: |
Hi Brian, the only advise I can give, if you are unaware of it, is in relation to the removal of the chrome grill/flying lady. Its a simple enough job from memory 4/5 bolts , two under bonnet and 2 at the base of grill if one is lying on ground looking upwards. Wish you well with this.
Post Number: 88
|Posted on Monday, 29 October, 2012 - 07:36 am: |
Hi Brian,the bonnet is best taken off and placed on the roof. We used bed sheets and bubble wrap to protect the roof. Mark the mountings for the bonnet. The grill stays in, but, there four ( I think) setscrews, two either side, which hold the rad in position. After disconnecting the hoses the rad just slides upward.It is very tight though. The shroud can be removed later, very carefully.You did well to get the header tank out without removing the bonnet.
Might be a good idea to change the water pump while your at it.
Post Number: 849
|Posted on Monday, 29 October, 2012 - 08:07 am: |
Common cause can be the engine gearbox mounts u/s letting the engine move forward under braking!
Post Number: 123
|Posted on Monday, 29 October, 2012 - 10:11 am: |
Well, today's work entailed taking off the grille (I'd rather be cautious, and this job is incredibly easy), getting the two tiny upper parts of the fan shroud off, and removing most of the nuts on the lower fan shroud (the last two will have to wait until the lower radiator hose is removed).
I had never thought about resting the hood/bonnet on top of the car, but with appropriate precautions this would appear to be the best possible option. I have already used a marker to trace the precise positioning of the mountings.
I'm one of those "obstinate people" who *hates* taking things out/apart for access unless it's absolutely necessary. It wasn't all that difficult getting the header tank out using a couple of extensions on my ratchet. That's all it took to remove all six bolts that hold the grille on as well.
Work will be going on hold for about a week, but I'm at the point where the radiator can soon come out.
Thanks to all for their input. I really do value it.
Post Number: 47
|Posted on Monday, 29 October, 2012 - 06:27 pm: |
just one note of advice : make sure there are 2 of you when removing the bonnet. As it is not heavy I thought I could do it by myself. However, I hadn't counted on the strength of the springs when you undo the last bolt. The bonnet jumped forwards and I was lucky I could catch it, but was then unable to move without the bonnet falling down. I then had to call out for my wife to come and help me put it on the roof. As she could see I was in a precarious situation, she thought it a good time to discuss the purchase of a particularly expensive pair of shoes before helping me out !
Post Number: 880
|Posted on Wednesday, 31 October, 2012 - 06:31 pm: |
posting from a mobile so have not read it all.
don't forget the gearbox cooler pipes underneath. 3/4 AF
and bonnet light wires .
Posted From: 18.104.22.168
|Posted on Wednesday, 19 December, 2012 - 01:03 pm: |
Hello Benoit..... most jobs arer a struggle on these old dears, but I have never experienced latent spring tension when removing the bonnet. The 'moving part' is positively stopped with bonnet open. One other thing; when refitting it has helped to fit a couple of studs to the bonnet and run nuts on when bonnet located.(Of course, replace studs with original bolts when in situ)
(Message approved by david_gore)
Post Number: 162
|Posted on Thursday, 20 December, 2012 - 12:26 am: |
This is an excellent idea. Does anyone know the stud size off the top of their heads? I realize I can take one of the original bolts and match it, but these things are nice to put down "for the record" if known.
I had assistance to remove the bonnet and it's been resting atop the car since shortly after my original post.
This job has been put in position number three after caring for my aging mother and working on getting the brake work finalized on SRH33576. That job just keeps developing one hitch after another.
Post Number: 197
|Posted on Thursday, 17 January, 2013 - 10:17 am: |
Well, there has been progress on this particular front now, too.
I managed to get the radiator out of the car and taken to our local radiator repair shop last week. The place is run by an older gentleman who's owned this shop "almost since dirt was invented." The moment he looked at it his observation was, "Those tubes were cut in a bad spot," followed by, "But since it's only four tubes I suggest simply blocking them off, you've got plenty left."
Today I decided to do some photo documentation and tube counting. There are 42 tubes from side to side and 4 rows from front to back, 168 in total. I think I'm probably fairly safe with only 164 tubes.
He did comment when returning the radiator to me that it looked almost brand new. Given how little use this car had seen, and how well cared for it had been until its last five years with its first owner, this wasn't surprising.
Here's a shot of the repaired side. The fan blade cut completely though 4 tubes at the top and damaged several others, but slightly enough that they could be repaired.
Here's a close-up of the four tubes that had been cut by the fan blade plus the fifth one to the left that was damaged (I believe at least two in the second row had slight damage that was repaired as well, but less than #5 in this photo):
And the lower end of the same set of tubes. All of the damage here is the direct result of human intervention to seal them off:
With any luck I'll get back to installing this within the next week or two. Finishing off the Silver Shadow II takes priority right now. More on that on "the other thread."
Post Number: 58
|Posted on Thursday, 17 January, 2013 - 12:12 pm: |
Brian - Many years ago I did a similar repair on a TR6 I owned at the time. The leak was in the middle of the radiator so I just removed a 1 inch section and sealed it with soft solder. It was a very effective repair. As a point of interest, what was used to seal your radiator?
Post Number: 199
|Posted on Thursday, 17 January, 2013 - 12:31 pm: |
I do not know for certain since I did not do the repair. I would imagine some sort of solder was used just based on what I could see as far as "shape" under the new paint.
All I know for sure is that it was pressure tested after the repair was completed.
Brian, who admits that there are times when I really don't feel compelled to know the details
Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov
Post Number: 3
|Posted on Monday, 18 February, 2013 - 09:02 pm: |
I have attempted to line up the front headlights so that they are in the centre of the headlight surrounds on the Camargue. I find it annoying that there is a gap on one side between the chrome headlight retainer and the inside edge of the headlight surround and its presence is annoying. After pulling the surround off and the headlights out I can find no evidence at all of any collision repair. The only thing I found is that some monster vandal had used a self tapping screw in one of the top holding screws on the headlight surround instead of a RR fine thread screw. I can't seem to the headlight centred. Any ideas?
Post Number: 185
|Posted on Sunday, 24 February, 2013 - 10:23 am: |
Why on earth put the removed bonnet on the roof - sounds to me like an expensive accident just waiting to happen if the bonnet slips for any reason. When I removed the bonnet of my Spirit, I put down a few lengths of 4x2 inch timber on the garage floor, padded them with old blankets, got in 4 friends (along with a crate of beers), and the bonnet got lifted off on to a secure base. The same 4 friends helped to put it back (more beers)with ease.
Post Number: 1486
|Posted on Sunday, 24 February, 2013 - 12:02 pm: |
Well Peter I feel thoroughly chastised since there is a complete re-enactment in Tee One and I would have removed at least 20 bonnets in my later life and assure you they have all gone onto the roof. The common mistake (in my opinion) is to lean them against a wall where despite natty coverings they get inadvertently kicked run into knocked over etc.Putting the bonnet on the roof keeps it out of the way is easily covered, the roof of the car can easily be protected with blankets from St Vinnies and the only hazard I can think of is the building roof collapsing probably destroying the car and possibly you or driving away with a great lunge and losing the lot out the back. For anticipated long restorations (like my 14 year effort on my S2, I do indeed stow the thing in the roof so that there is room on the bentley to put bikes, old mattresses 22 years of back Praeclarvms and back up stocks of alcohol!
Post Number: 1487
|Posted on Sunday, 24 February, 2013 - 12:17 pm: |
Back again. See Tee One Topics Issue 56 page 812. How to remove a bonnet and store it.