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Brian Vogel
Prolific User
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 102
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 08:51 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I just posted about this on the RROC-US forums site and want to get all of the help I can, so I'm reaching out here, too.

Today was a 50 steps forward with one "major" remaining glitch.

The good news is that both accumulators and control valves are back in and neither is leaking where the accumulator screws in. I had a very slight leak on one of the 3/4" high pressure lines from the pump, but a bit of tightening fixed that right up.

I had two major leaks, one per side, where the high pressure hose exiting the accumulator screws in to the brass connector block. On the right this was cured by tightening. On the left, however, no such luck.

This is a shot of the left side connector block with a part of an old high pressure hose being used as a blanking plug:

LH Brass Hydraulic Connector Block

The issue I am having is getting any hose end to screw into that connector with ease. It starts in by fingers easily, gets somewhat "snug" to fingers relatively quickly, then screws in with a wrench for a few turns before getting very tight to turn.

When it reaches what I feel is a "comfortable" stopping point it's clear that the flared end of the hose itself is not making contact with the connector block; you can still slide the central pipe part of the hose in and out.

I am really uncomfortable "forcing" this with huge amounts of force on the wrench. It appears that this side is tapped out more deeply than on the right, and that might be a big factor in how tight the thing gets.

Is there any reason for this behavior that would suggest something's amiss? I have tried with three different hose ends and all behave similarly. I am stopping because I want to be certain that I'm not going to screw something up by trying to screw in the hose too vigorously.

I have looked in the block with a mirror and there does not seem to be a blessed thing in there that would cause this behavior.

As things stand now I get an absolute gusher of fluid coming out at that connection that's running down the center of the hex fitting along the metal tube which isn't making contact inside the connector.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Brian
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 864
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 09:10 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Brian,

Have you tried the pipe in another block?.

I can't see much in the photo but it sounds as though at some point a pipe has been cross threaded in the block. :-(

Was it tight coming out?

If it is definitely square going in then I would be tempted to wind in the spare end all the way to clean up the thread. Unfortunately this is a kill or cure answer. It will either seal with the proper pipe or you will need a new block.

Or a used one - we have plenty over here in the UK.

Also a word of warning. Make sure that the rubber hose and the metal flux pipes are not touching or with the engine vibrations it will wear a hole in the flex pipe pretty quickly.
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Brian Vogel
Prolific User
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 103
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 09:19 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul,

I suspect cross-threading as well (done, perhaps, by me). It's been so many months since this project started that I have little to no recollection of how some things "should" feel.

The feel coming out for all of the hose connections I've tried feels the same as it did going in, but that's not surprising: things are very "tight" at first and get looser as the thing backs out.

I think I am going to try what you suggested with the spare end since I really don't have any other option that I can see.

I'm not sure what you mean by metal flux pipes, but all hoses have their respective "soft parts" hovering in midair. I know that these can easily rub through otherwise.

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply.

Brian
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 1140
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 01:44 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul - I wish I had your luck with "cleaning up" hydraulic block female threads . On DRH14434, I bought some new male nipples and used these to check suspect threads before trying to make the connection however I had more "dribblers" than dry connections resulting in new blocks being purchased.

Brian - if it is any consolation, it is very easy to cross thread the connections especially if you have large hands due to the difficulty in getting the connector in the right position to go into the block. Been there - done that more times than I care to admit. If the connector does not screw into the block with minimal finger pressure, it is cross-threaded and needs to be withdrawn and a new nipple used as a tap to clear the starting thread before trying again. Using a new nipple with no connections attached is much easier to align properly and engage correctly with the female thread so you can then try to fit the proper connection knowing that it will screw in freely when properly aligned.

You haven't mentioned the condition of the flared ends of the connecting pipe - I found some of these were problematic due to distortion/thinning from previous use and this distortion also resulted in leaks that could not be fixed by "nipping up" the connector a little tighter - in some cases it made the leak worse.
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Brian Vogel
Prolific User
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 104
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 01:50 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David,

Just for the record, the hose in question was custom made and brand new. I decided to go the route of getting PTFE core hoses so that I (or the next or the next after . . .) would never have to bother to replace them again.

Let's hope that trying to use that old hose end in the picture as a tap will work. I really don't want to have to put this project on hold one more time and I dread to think what one of those miserable connector blocks must cost!!

Brian
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Dave Puttock
Experienced User
Username: ariel

Post Number: 36
Registered: 5-2010
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 09:45 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just a thought, as you say the pipes have been made up new. Have they definately used the right thread. Metric M10x1 and 7/16" SAE look nealry the same to the eye until you screw them in.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 866
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 10:02 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

and will screw in a way first.

pm me if you need a block. :-)
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Brian Vogel
Prolific User
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 105
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Monday, 01 October, 2012 - 11:09 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dave & Paul,

Anything is possible, I suppose, but the other two I had made (needed one for another car) and at least one end of this one are definitely the correct thread. There doesn't appear to be anything stamped on the fitting so unless I can figure this out by eye. . .

Paul, thank you for your generous offer. Once I give this a go again, and if it doesn't work, you'll be hearing from me!!

Brian
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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 400
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 02 October, 2012 - 06:01 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Do you have a spare fitting that is known to be Imperial? If you place it beside the suspect one so that the individual threads line up it will soon become obvious whether they match all the way along their length.
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Brian Vogel
Prolific User
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 106
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 02 October, 2012 - 11:16 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jan,

I have several fittings known to be Imperial, but the "test" has already been done in that the "problem end" threads into the accumulator valve body without difficulty. I had tried the hose "backwards" first (this thing has some odd angles on the pipe portion that don't make things obvious).

Were I to have one of these made up again I would definitely change one end to have no angle on the pipe part whatsoever. It would have been much easier to install in that configuration.

Brian, who's now doing the quick search for a replacement connector block and not looking forward to trying to get the original out and the new in
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Peter Talbot
Prolific User
Username: squerryes

Post Number: 152
Registered: 7-2010
Posted on Tuesday, 02 October, 2012 - 11:54 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Brian

As these are new fittings the manufacturer will be able to confirm the thread used in their fabrication. I'm not to keen on Paul's suggestion that you "wind it in" as I agree this is a "kill or cure" answer.

Suggestion: confirm the thread used in the manufacture of your new fittings, obtain a parallel sided die to match, VERY GENTLY and with frequent reverse, and with lots of cutting fluid lubrication, run it into the thread. This should clear any cross thread problem.

Peter
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Peter Talbot
Prolific User
Username: squerryes

Post Number: 153
Registered: 7-2010
Posted on Wednesday, 03 October, 2012 - 12:00 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Mea culpa - Parallel tap not die !!

Peter

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