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PETER DIXON
Frequent User
Username: petenlinid

Post Number: 60
Registered: 8-2003
Posted on Sunday, 08 July, 2012 - 10:27 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP
I am for the first time undertaking the flushing of my cooling system myself. I found that the removal of the engine drain plugs to be extremely difficult in as much as they appeared to have been put in extraordinarily tight. Each plug is equipped with a fine shiny steel washer.

Could I ask:
(a) is there an alternative type of washer that could be safely used?
(b) what is the appropriate torque setting for the plugs?
(c) should/could a liquid gasket type compound be used on the threads?

Thanks
Peter
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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 353
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Sunday, 08 July, 2012 - 08:03 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP
quote:

I am for the first time undertaking the flushing of my cooling system myself. I found that the removal of the engine drain plugs to be extremely difficult in as much as they appeared to have been put in extraordinarily tight. Each plug is equipped with a fine shiny steel washer.

Could I ask:
(a) is there an alternative type of washer that could be safely used?

Any washer that fits should be OK. Personally I might be tempted to use nylon ones as replacements since they will seal at much lower torque figures as long as the mating surfaces are clean and without scoring.

(b) what is the appropriate torque setting for the plugs?

As long as the threads are clean on both sides then the spanner length is a good indicator of torque without using a full torque wrench. As long as you don't try and bend the spanner shaft then a decent 'firm tweak' on it should be adequate: Less so if you've resorted to the nylon sealing washers as you don't want to crush them.

(c) should/could a liquid gasket type compound be used on the threads?

Absolutely not! If you have any doubt about the fit of the bolt you should replace it. If you just doubt its water tightness you can wrap a few turns of PTFE tape around the threads.

Thanks
Peter



When flushing any cooling system I prefer to temporarily remove the thermostat, replace the cover with the bolts just nipped up and finally shove a garden hose in the top radiator hose to backflush the block. If secured and 'sealed' with an old rag it should hold there for the 30-40 minutes that you leave the hose running. After that I repeat the exercise to backflush the radiator separately for a similar period via the bottom radiator hose.
If you have any doubts about how much silt, gunge and/or muck that may have accumulated in the system there's nothing wrong with adding any proprietary cooling system flushing additive a few tens of klicks before draining and flushing the system.