| Author | Message | ||
     Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 36 Registered: 5-2009 |
Gentlemen, in replacing Her (SRH9391) B-Bank exhaust manifold gaskets, I find it necessary to replace the choke stove pipe. I have both ends undone; however there seems to be a hangup underneath the inlet elbow and crankcase vent pipe. Is there a clamp holding the stove pipe in place underneath it all, or is it just tight down under? Is it necessary to remove the carb-horn assembly to replace the stove pipe? | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 38 Registered: 5-2009 |
Problem solved, thanks to Bill Coburn and his excellent article in Tee-One, Issue 29, Page 418. He oughtta turn all that into a book, it would be great for the Home Rolls-Royce Mechanic. he can even name it that! | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1383 Registered: 4-2003 |
Randy/ Thanks for the accolades. I shall have to buy a new hat! Co-incidentally I drove a friend's Shadow recently that had the power of a Morris Minor. Turned out it had the dirtiest plugs I have ever seen and I believe the car was running on four cylinders and possibly five on a good day! The answer was in the 'hot' stove pipe where it is attached to the heat exchanger in the exhaust manifold. From what I could see the pipe was held in place by the heat insulation and the choke system simply sucked cool air in through the gap. The choke itself must have been partially shut the whole time!! | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 39 Registered: 5-2009 |
I won't leave well enough alone, I suppose. I am intrigued by the original arrangement. The steel tube is 1/4 inch diameter, with 1/8 inch ID, high-pressure stuff. The conical tube end is also interesting.Is this some sort of hydraulic tube system whcih was adapted for this purpose? | ||
| Bill hafele New User Username: billy_uk Post Number: 2 Registered: 5-2011 |
Randy I cannot understand why this pipe is high-pressure. It only carries a moderate vaccuum and is not pressurised. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1078 Registered: 4-2003 |
The pipe gets extremely hot in service and its strength at these temperatures is drastically reduced. It is also prone to oxidation [dry rusting] at these temperatures so a heavy wall section means a longer service life. The first place for the pipe to fail is usually just above the connection to the manifold as this is where the highest operating temperature occurs. | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 40 Registered: 5-2009 |
My pipe was failed about 1 1/2 inches above the stove-end fitting; in fact it had been repaired once already by brazing a short length of pipe in just above the lower fitting. I will replace it with stainless, probably. I found that a bubble flare for brake line will seal at the fitting very nicely, at least well enough. I found an insulated sleeve with a black silicone jacket at Jegs which will serve very nicely as replacement for the original woven, presumably asbestos, material. | ||
| Geoff Unregistered guest Posted From: 68.104.65.17 |
Randy - Have you still got the link to the black silicone jacket at Jegs. I am having trouble finding it. Regards - Geoff (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 47 Registered: 5-2009 |
Hi, Geoff, try this link: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Thermal-Heat-Sleeving/1130487/10002/-1 It is the thermal heat sleeving. Regards, Randy | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 48 Registered: 5-2009 |
By the way: the fittings on the original stove pipe remind me of the old British Diesel injection steel lines, including the cone formed on the ends of the pipe. |
