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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 309
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Monday, 20 February, 2012 - 10:09 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have a couple of minor niggles of RSH24518 that I would like to tackle.

First and least is the fuel gauge. With the engine running, and particularly on the move, the needle jumps around so much that it's almost impossible to work out how much juice is in the tank. Fortunately this is merely annoying as I usually chuck 20-25 litres in every time I fill the LPG tank, which is the fuel I use most of the time. I assume that there should be a damping capacitor across the voltage feed and earth - say an electrolytic of around 1000uf - right?

Second and much more annoying is that after replacing the boot on the Denver joint at the bottom of the steering shaft the steering wheel isn't properly centralised. At the time I was convinced that I'd realigned the marks correctly, but the shaft must have slipped and rotated while I was sliding the joint on to the splines. Do I really need to go under there and do it again, or is it a practical proposition to remove and refit the steering wheel? If so is there a knack to it that avoids cracking the Bakelite?

Thanks in advance chums and chummettes.
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Omar M. Shams
Prolific User
Username: omar

Post Number: 230
Registered: 4-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 21 February, 2012 - 04:49 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That Denver joint scares me.
I would remove the steering wheel any day rather than tackle the Denver joint again. Gentle persuasion and rubber mallets worked for me in the past.
The horn push button has a release clip in its centre from behind, then three little screws behind that and then the big nut. Undo the big nut and persuade the wheel off - gently.
Good luck
Omar