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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 12
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Saturday, 26 November, 2011 - 07:36 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I read with interest Bills TEE ONE on removing the front springs . I had a 1 inch steel plate made and 4 high tensile rods with nuts fashioned . I was just wondering how high should the lift be on the bottle jack. I need to swap out the rear pin bushes and replace the shocking price absorbers
RH
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Jan Forrest
Prolific User
Username: got_one

Post Number: 288
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Saturday, 26 November, 2011 - 08:22 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I assume you mean the description on page 785 of issue 54. There's a slightly better picture of the same procedure on page 449 of issue 31. Between the two it appears that the spring compression should be fully relieved by the time the retaining cap has been lifted around 12" (30Cms). Obviously this assumes that the spring is no longer supporting the weight of the car which should be up on axle stands.
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 14
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Saturday, 26 November, 2011 - 08:33 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

thank you Jan,
I can see the the difference now.yep 30 or 40 cms


thank you
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 1323
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, 26 November, 2011 - 10:27 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

It is a bit surreal to find one's writings discussed in this matter but I suppose it is inevitable. Robert, I just went out to the garage at 2320hrs to measure the jack I use for the operation. It is a 2 throw with a screw extension on the top - total height incl the jack body is 15 1/2". This is turn sits on a round 1" thick plate with a large hole in it to accomodate the shock absorber shaft.

Even then I always have to use the nuts on the rods to do the final compression and the final release.

Email me if you require more info.
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 15
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Sunday, 27 November, 2011 - 07:15 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

thank you Jan,Bill.for the advice . I had a bottle jack in the shed but it has nowhere near the reach required to do the job. I'll source one today.
my apologies also Bill I meant no disrespect.
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 1324
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 27 November, 2011 - 07:55 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

None taken I assure you Robert. I often have a laugh to myself about Topics which grew out of a local self help group of owners. Everybody at these gatherings would do something to their car and it seemed a pity to let the knowledge and experience just fritter away into the atmoshere. To this day in some quarters the 'writings' are still regarded as bordering on sedition but given the number of enquiries I have had from all over the world, I think they are worthwhile.

OK back to the jack Jack! The unit I have must be 15 years old. It is a Lightburn Model 2D as best I can read the writing through the grime! Ideally a three piston jack would be preferable since the screw section can hardly be altered when under load. Now you have me intrigued to see what is available.
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Jan Forrest
Prolific User
Username: got_one

Post Number: 289
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Sunday, 27 November, 2011 - 07:48 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My only concern about the use of any kind of hydraulic jack is the possible limited control when depressurising it to allow the spring to extend. I've seen such jacks suddenly lose all pressure with just a tweak of the valve. Can you still get those screw jacks that look like a bottle jack? It's been many a year since I laid eyes on one. To the best of my failing memory I'm certain I had one with 2 or 3 screw sections, but I cannot for the life of me remember what happened to it. This is a great pity as with a few extra components it would have made a damn good fruit press for wine and cider making *HIC*.
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Bill Coburn
Moderator
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 1325
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 27 November, 2011 - 08:18 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hmmmm Jan. When I set up this tool I contemplated a screw jack but all of them had enough looseness to give me concerns about maintaining the 'release axis' vertical. With a large hydraulic jack standing in a very solid block of steel and located by more steel guides and retainers, even if the jack seals failed catastrophically the spring would simply shoot up to the limit of the jack and stop. Personally when I have undone the last bolt I release that pressure quite quickly.
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Carl Heydon
Experienced User
Username: car

Post Number: 25
Registered: 2-2004
Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2011 - 07:05 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

When replacing the shocks on SCAZN00A9JCH23812 I used the wonderful Toyota 2 stage mechanical jack as were supplied with Hiace and Hilux. Very strong and stable. As you see I used formply and blocks of hardwood shaped to suit. Quick and easy to set up with a hand saw and cordless drill. I can feel the horror from the engineers but the process was safe and simple. I would only use the threaded rod once but at $12 with nuts and washers for 4?
Hillbilly spring compressor
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 1051
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2011 - 07:30 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Carl, you beat me to this suggestion. This jack was also used on the 4Runner 4wd vehicles as well. They should be readily available at a reasonable cost from any 4wd dismantler.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 825
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2011 - 08:51 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ok, first I'll just say that these front springs scare me. Having seen what happens when they get loose. Take great care.

Robert, I notice that you have quite a low chassis number.

Have you got the short stroke dampers and rams still fitted? It would be a good idea to swap to the later long stroke dampers and modified top plates. Gives a better ride and works out much cheaper than buying short stroke ones.
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 16
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2011 - 12:57 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul, she has the early type dampers fitted but no rams large lock nut on top of the ball joint housing
I guess they are short stroke ones.I'll definitely upgrade if its the way to go. I spent a whole Sunday looking for a jack but to no avail. Ebay looks like my next best bet.I must admit I am scared to,I can see myself with a mouth full of broken teeth and an impression of a front spring in my forehead .But I'll have ago.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and tips
RH
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 17
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Monday, 28 November, 2011 - 03:36 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

HI lift bottle jack sourced compliments of Blackwater mines and the helpful team in the maintenance dept.
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 22
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Monday, 12 December, 2011 - 01:54 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello I thought I better post my attempt at the spring removal tool. The right information sure does make a difference.

Thanks to everyone
New parts are on their way

RH
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Neville Davies
Experienced User
Username: nev_davies

Post Number: 34
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Monday, 12 December, 2011 - 06:11 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Rob Could you tell me the length and thread of the rods you used please?

Nev
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 23
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Monday, 12 December, 2011 - 08:08 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Neville
the length of the rod was 60cm or 2 feet that seemed to be enough for my car and a bit spare .I suppose longer wouldn't hurt. cost $13.oo at local hardware
store.

cheers RH
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 24
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Monday, 12 December, 2011 - 08:18 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I'm sorry i left the last part of your question out.
7mm rod with 13 mm nuts course thread.


cheers
rh
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Neville Davies
Experienced User
Username: nev_davies

Post Number: 35
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 13 December, 2011 - 12:10 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Rob just in case the need arises

Nev
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Robert Howlett
Experienced User
Username: bobhowlett

Post Number: 25
Registered: 9-2010
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2011 - 06:38 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Well i finally got the "left" front end off.I had no idea of the corrosion I was confronted with. The bottom spring support was completely eaten away and paper thin. because of the canvas spring isolator still attached to the spring .I had the missing steel replaced and TIG welded.The rear pin bush was non existent as was the front .Always wondered why there was a thumping noise under the passenger side foot-well.I guess this was a job well worth doing and a real safety concern.A job well worth doing even if everything seems ok.

cheers
rh