| Author | Message | ||
     Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 12 Registered: 9-2010 |
I read with interest Bills TEE ONE on removing the front springs . I had a 1 inch steel plate made and 4 high tensile rods with nuts fashioned . I was just wondering how high should the lift be on the bottle jack. I need to swap out the rear pin bushes and replace the shocking price absorbers RH | ||
| Jan Forrest Prolific User Username: got_one Post Number: 288 Registered: 1-2008 |
I assume you mean the description on page 785 of issue 54. There's a slightly better picture of the same procedure on page 449 of issue 31. Between the two it appears that the spring compression should be fully relieved by the time the retaining cap has been lifted around 12" (30Cms). Obviously this assumes that the spring is no longer supporting the weight of the car which should be up on axle stands. | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 14 Registered: 9-2010 |
thank you Jan, I can see the the difference now.yep 30 or 40 cms thank you | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1323 Registered: 4-2003 |
It is a bit surreal to find one's writings discussed in this matter but I suppose it is inevitable. Robert, I just went out to the garage at 2320hrs to measure the jack I use for the operation. It is a 2 throw with a screw extension on the top - total height incl the jack body is 15 1/2". This is turn sits on a round 1" thick plate with a large hole in it to accomodate the shock absorber shaft. Even then I always have to use the nuts on the rods to do the final compression and the final release. Email me if you require more info. | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 15 Registered: 9-2010 |
thank you Jan,Bill.for the advice . I had a bottle jack in the shed but it has nowhere near the reach required to do the job. I'll source one today. my apologies also Bill I meant no disrespect. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1324 Registered: 4-2003 |
None taken I assure you Robert. I often have a laugh to myself about Topics which grew out of a local self help group of owners. Everybody at these gatherings would do something to their car and it seemed a pity to let the knowledge and experience just fritter away into the atmoshere. To this day in some quarters the 'writings' are still regarded as bordering on sedition but given the number of enquiries I have had from all over the world, I think they are worthwhile. OK back to the jack Jack! The unit I have must be 15 years old. It is a Lightburn Model 2D as best I can read the writing through the grime! Ideally a three piston jack would be preferable since the screw section can hardly be altered when under load. Now you have me intrigued to see what is available. | ||
| Jan Forrest Prolific User Username: got_one Post Number: 289 Registered: 1-2008 |
My only concern about the use of any kind of hydraulic jack is the possible limited control when depressurising it to allow the spring to extend. I've seen such jacks suddenly lose all pressure with just a tweak of the valve. Can you still get those screw jacks that look like a bottle jack? It's been many a year since I laid eyes on one. To the best of my failing memory I'm certain I had one with 2 or 3 screw sections, but I cannot for the life of me remember what happened to it. This is a great pity as with a few extra components it would have made a damn good fruit press for wine and cider making *HIC*. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1325 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hmmmm Jan. When I set up this tool I contemplated a screw jack but all of them had enough looseness to give me concerns about maintaining the 'release axis' vertical. With a large hydraulic jack standing in a very solid block of steel and located by more steel guides and retainers, even if the jack seals failed catastrophically the spring would simply shoot up to the limit of the jack and stop. Personally when I have undone the last bolt I release that pressure quite quickly. | ||
| Carl Heydon Experienced User Username: car Post Number: 25 Registered: 2-2004 |
When replacing the shocks on SCAZN00A9JCH23812 I used the wonderful Toyota 2 stage mechanical jack as were supplied with Hiace and Hilux. Very strong and stable. As you see I used formply and blocks of hardwood shaped to suit. Quick and easy to set up with a hand saw and cordless drill. I can feel the horror from the engineers but the process was safe and simple. I would only use the threaded rod once but at $12 with nuts and washers for 4?  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1051 Registered: 4-2003 |
Carl, you beat me to this suggestion. This jack was also used on the 4Runner 4wd vehicles as well. They should be readily available at a reasonable cost from any 4wd dismantler. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 825 Registered: 6-2006 |
Ok, first I'll just say that these front springs scare me. Having seen what happens when they get loose. Take great care. Robert, I notice that you have quite a low chassis number. Have you got the short stroke dampers and rams still fitted? It would be a good idea to swap to the later long stroke dampers and modified top plates. Gives a better ride and works out much cheaper than buying short stroke ones. | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 16 Registered: 9-2010 |
Paul, she has the early type dampers fitted but no rams large lock nut on top of the ball joint housing I guess they are short stroke ones.I'll definitely upgrade if its the way to go. I spent a whole Sunday looking for a jack but to no avail. Ebay looks like my next best bet.I must admit I am scared to,I can see myself with a mouth full of broken teeth and an impression of a front spring in my forehead .But I'll have ago. Thanks to everyone for the advice and tips RH | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 17 Registered: 9-2010 |
HI lift bottle jack sourced compliments of Blackwater mines and the helpful team in the maintenance dept. | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 22 Registered: 9-2010 |
Hello I thought I better post my attempt at the spring removal tool. The right information sure does make a difference. Thanks to everyone New parts are on their way RH  | ||
| Neville Davies Experienced User Username: nev_davies Post Number: 34 Registered: 9-2006 |
Rob Could you tell me the length and thread of the rods you used please? Nev | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 23 Registered: 9-2010 |
Hi Neville the length of the rod was 60cm or 2 feet that seemed to be enough for my car and a bit spare .I suppose longer wouldn't hurt. cost $13.oo at local hardware store. cheers RH | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 24 Registered: 9-2010 |
I'm sorry i left the last part of your question out. 7mm rod with 13 mm nuts course thread. cheers rh | ||
| Neville Davies Experienced User Username: nev_davies Post Number: 35 Registered: 9-2006 |
Thanks Rob just in case the need arises Nev | ||
| Robert Howlett Experienced User Username: bobhowlett Post Number: 25 Registered: 9-2010 |
Well i finally got the "left" front end off.I had no idea of the corrosion I was confronted with. The bottom spring support was completely eaten away and paper thin. because of the canvas spring isolator still attached to the spring .I had the missing steel replaced and TIG welded.The rear pin bush was non existent as was the front .Always wondered why there was a thumping noise under the passenger side foot-well.I guess this was a job well worth doing and a real safety concern.A job well worth doing even if everything seems ok. cheers rh  |
