Author |
Message |
Carl Jensen
Experienced User Username: carl_jensen
Post Number: 39 Registered: 2-2005
| Posted on Thursday, 28 July, 2011 - 06:54 am: | |
The two pipes that lead from the EGR valve assembly to the intake manifold have corroded so badly that only the heat insulation is holding them together. I am concerned that the corroded bits of the pipes are being sucked right into the engine and even more concerned that some exhaust gases are escaping into the engine compartment. Unfortunately this part is no longer available and I am concerned that a used unit will have the same problems soon enough. Does anyone have a suggestion on what I might do? I may just blank off where the two pipes go into the intake and also blank off the exhaust pipe leading into the EGR valves so that the EGR system is completely shut off. Hopefully this will not impact driveability. I am not worried about failing a vehicle inspection since our area does not do emission tests on antique cars like mine. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Carl |
Jan Forrest
Prolific User Username: got_one
Post Number: 219 Registered: 1-2008
| Posted on Thursday, 28 July, 2011 - 06:39 pm: | |
I think you'll find that these are part of the 'stove pipe' that helps set the common choke flap. It's meant to allow a trickle of fresh air onto the choke bi-metal switch after it's been heated inside the 'B' bank (left hand side when viewed from the driver's seat) exhaust manifold. There's a third pipe hidden inside the manifold that these connect to which may also be corroded. The formers are still available from here, here and here. The latter part is also available here. As you can expect all the parts are priced as though they are made from platinum and to be delivered by an armed police escort! |
Paul Yorke
Grand Master Username: paul_yorke
Post Number: 761 Registered: 6-2006
| Posted on Thursday, 28 July, 2011 - 07:17 pm: | |
Jan - 1/2 right with your info . . . . but wrong parts. The stove pipes are a different beast and about 1/4 the size of these. Carl - Blanking them off is usually the best option. Otherwise it is custom made in stainless. |
Carl Jensen
Experienced User Username: carl_jensen
Post Number: 40 Registered: 2-2005
| Posted on Saturday, 06 August, 2011 - 04:42 am: | |
Thanks for your advice Jan and Paul. I have now blanked off the EGR system. Carl. |
Brian Vogel
Experienced User Username: guyslp
Post Number: 14 Registered: 6-2009
| Posted on Saturday, 06 August, 2011 - 06:32 am: | |
As it so happens I was just looking at a '79 Silver Wraith II with these pipes and the stove pipe, all covered in asbestos as in this picture. The stove pipe insulation was coming apart, and since it's asbestos that's not such a good thing. Also, since it's asbestos you can't replace it with same. Is there any preferred replacement insulation for these pipes or does one just remove the degrading asbestos (after applying generous amounts of fixative to the fibers, of course)? Brian |
David Gore
Moderator Username: david_gore
Post Number: 1018 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Saturday, 06 August, 2011 - 10:05 am: | |
I would weld/braze new pipes into the existing fittings if they can be salvaged and leave the pipes bare - in our climate, the heat loss from the uninsulated pipes is minimal and the delay in choke opening would be negligible. Of course, this presents a possible authenticity problem in concourse judging if allowances are not permissible for OHS modifications such as deletion of asbestos. (Message edited by david_gore on 06 August 2011) |
Bill Coburn
Moderator Username: bill_coburn
Post Number: 1310 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Saturday, 06 August, 2011 - 09:33 pm: | |
Can I offer my fourpence worth. Paul straightened the discussion out as to which pipes we are talking about. Personally I remove the EGR pipes, the air pump and the pipes feeding the cylinder heads. This gives much better access to the engine and looks better. The holes in the heads are easily blocked with standard screwed plugs. The feed for the defunct EGR valves which comes off the balance pipe linking the two exhaust system just behind the torque converter, needs to be blanked off and if you don't mind a minor emulation of an outboard motor at the back, take the balance pipe off and weld up the resulting holes! The holes in the intake manifold again can be blocked off with made up small plates and a bit of gasket material. As to the stove pipes these are available from flying spares in two sizes and are considerably cheaper than the genuine. |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 2373 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Sunday, 07 August, 2011 - 12:19 pm: | |
You mention stove pipes. I had a pair of stove pipes made up at ABS Brakes in Canberra (Fyshwick) a few weeks ago for a Silver Shadow. They had a problem with the lagging, so I bought that at Autopro and gave it to them. The lagging comes in 1M rolls ready to slide over the bundy tubing before the connectors are fitted. Of course, it is not asbestos anymore, rather a woven glass fibre. Cost, about $70 for the pair of stove pipes with lagging. RT. |