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Barry Brears
Frequent User
Username: turney_2009

Post Number: 94
Registered: 8-2009
Posted on Saturday, 30 April, 2011 - 06:19 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My Bentley T1 SBH 17291 has developed a strange clicking noise but only occasionely when turning corners,when the noise happens the coolant light flickers.This is obviousley a short or so I think,so I disconnected the negative lead on the battery clipped a test light to the lead and put the test pointy end on to the negative terminal the light didn't come on so is it a short I ask myself.So wher do we go from here I know ! the Auto Electrician but I would really like to fix this myself.
Barry
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 726
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 30 April, 2011 - 06:33 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Have you topped up the radiator?
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Jan Forrest
Prolific User
Username: got_one

Post Number: 194
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Saturday, 30 April, 2011 - 08:23 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Barry: The only thing your test would have shown up is whether there was current already flowing through the earth lead at the time. If the ignition was switched off the only thing that would have been drawing current is the clock which doesn't use anywhere near enough to illuminate a bulb!
As Paul says the low coolant light should just be indicating that either the coolant level is ... low ... or that the sender is worn and needs replacing. It's far from unusual for either to be the case as
a) the car is 30 odd years old now
or
b)the cooolant level is borderline and is being thrown outwards by centripetal momentum and away from the centrally mounted sender.

Without hearing the clicking noise it's hard to be more precise, but could a previous owner have added an audible warning device meant to alert the driver to a low coolant condition?
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Barry Brears
Frequent User
Username: turney_2009

Post Number: 95
Registered: 8-2009
Posted on Sunday, 01 May, 2011 - 08:31 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Gentlemen I think you may have nailed it.I topped up the radiator Paul and it made no difference so now it could be a faulty sender no I don't think the previous owner fitted any other warning device.The noise does sound like something not just quite connecting.I did think it may be something to do with oil warning system you know the black button in the centre of the dash.Anyway we'll try the coolant sender first.
Barry
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Barry Brears
Frequent User
Username: turney_2009

Post Number: 96
Registered: 8-2009
Posted on Sunday, 01 May, 2011 - 03:55 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Something else has transpired after disconnecting the 2 wires to the coolant probe I checked for current and there was none but the coolant light came on the dash.Is there another sender be it oil or water on the same circuit if so what is it and where is it.Also the cost of a new coolant probe is expensive 94 quid is there an alternative.Thanks for your help.
Barry
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 727
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Sunday, 01 May, 2011 - 05:43 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The sensor on the shadow is just two metal probes and the circuit measures resistance. Not much to go wrong with the probe apart from crud on the ends. They are a right Royal PITA to get out and often self destruct in the process. Are the connectors clean and secure, and the wires into the connectors ok? bridge out the terminals and then go for a drive. If it still flashes you can rule out the sensor. There is an AMP which can fail or become out of tolerances. How about the engine overheat buzzer wire, rear side of A bank head?
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Barry Brears
Frequent User
Username: turney_2009

Post Number: 97
Registered: 8-2009
Posted on Monday, 02 May, 2011 - 03:44 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul I found a loose black live wire in the vicinity of rear of A bank cylinder head this may be the culprit where is the overheat buzzer situated so I can reconnect went for a look couldn't see it.Also did all the other stuff and everythingseems ok I have blanked off the live wire for the moment.Please explain what is an AMP excuse the ignorance.
Regards Barry
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Barry Brears
Frequent User
Username: turney_2009

Post Number: 98
Registered: 8-2009
Posted on Monday, 02 May, 2011 - 05:33 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul I found the overheat buzzer situated a top of the exhaust manifold.Thanks mate
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 728
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 02 May, 2011 - 07:19 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

:-)
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Jeff Young
Experienced User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 35
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Tuesday, 03 May, 2011 - 06:57 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The coolant sensor amp on a T2 is a little circuit board with 3 transistors, a couple of diodes, resistors and a capacitor, all enclosed in a plastic case. It's mounted on a board under the centre of the crashpad on top of the dash.

It's a bit hard to get to, but in my experience the diodes (at least) can burn out. Since most of the work is getting to the dang thing, I went ahead and replaced the transistors too.

I think I posted on it here in the last 6 months; you might want to do a search on "coolant amp".

BTW: you're on your own to translate this to a T1; I don't know how different they are in this area.

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Jeff Young
Experienced User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 36
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Tuesday, 03 May, 2011 - 07:10 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Search didn't do it for me, but here's a link:

http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/10570.html?1288345264

(It also has a few details about rebuilding my ice-warning-amp, which I did at the same time.)

Jeff.