Author |
Message |
   
Gabriël Viljoen New User Username: gabriel
Post Number: 3 Registered: 3-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, 14 April, 2004 - 06:40 pm: |    |
The central locking of my (recently bought) 1971 Silver Shadow is not working properly. The switch on the driver's door opens and closes this door, and only opens the passenger door. The switch on the passenger door opens and closes only this door. Neither of the switches operates the rear doors. I do not have an owners manual to see how it is supposed to work. Is a solenoid fitted to the trunk as well (does this form part of the central locking system, or do I have to lock / unlock in manually). What is the purpose of the red button in the glove box? Does this have something to do with the central locking? The wiring diagrams shows a manual reset button for the central locking. Is this it? When do I use it? Do I need to press it once, or must I keep it depressed for a few seconds? I got wiring diagrams from Robert Chapman yesterday. I will have a look at the wiring over the weekend. Does anyone have suggestions? Please feel free to post a message, or e-mail me at gabriel@exceed.co.za. Gabriël |
   
Gabriël Viljoen New User Username: gabriel
Post Number: 5 Registered: 3-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, 02 June, 2004 - 01:52 am: |    |
I managed to locate all the troubling spots in my central locking system. I have drawn up a short document on how I went about locating the problems. Please contact me if you are interest and I will e-mail it to you. Regards Gabriel gabriel@exceed.co.za |
   
Martin Taylor Frequent User Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 29 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, 02 June, 2004 - 09:56 pm: |    |
I have a 72 Shadow and have been down the same road. There is one solenoid in each door, none in the boot as it is designed to be locked seperatly. They are all wired in parallel but draw sufficiently high current that if they start to jam mechanically the impedance of the wiring loom will cause them to stall. Each unit can be tested seperatly by unplugging that particular door plug and applying a high current source. If one unit sticks the others will have less power available so disconnecting one faulty one may get the rest working. The solenoids fail as the plastic bushing around the shafts dries out and crumbles jamming the mechanism. Martin http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor |
   
Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 202 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Thursday, 03 June, 2004 - 02:57 am: |    |
As Gabriel an I have found, the original end stop wasgers inside the solenoids on the plunger shafts are to blame in most cases. They become sticky with time, especially if someone tries to lubricate the solenoid. For a permanent fix, you need to open up the solenoid, clean it thoroughly and replace the washers. Gabriel used a neoprene rubber washer as replacements to give a softer end stop, whilst I opted for a fibre washer on top of a rubber washer. The fibre washer cannot become sticky with age, but equally a brass washer on top of a rubber one may be better. I haven't had a stuck solenoid for 15 years on our '72 T-Series. I did all four door solenoids even though only one stuck and one was temperamental. I have never seen a damaged nylon plunger bushing by the way. By contrast. Yorks replaced no less than seven sticky solenoids in the car's first five years at great expense. |
   
John Dare Unregistered guest Posted From: 144.138.194.191
| Posted on Thursday, 03 June, 2004 - 06:48 pm: |    |
Reading all this makes me so glad that my 1970 Shadow (SRH8058) doesnt have central locking nor cruise control both of arguable value and a constant source of irritation due to FTW (Failure To Work). I know of a innovative Shadow owner who had a piece of 5/8in.dia.wooden dowelling with a tipped "point" at one end (pivoted on accelerator) and a small steel "U" shaped "stirrup" at the other end which fitted snugly into the "pull" handle on the door trim facing. A knurled adjustment knob (within the threaded stirrup) conveniently altered the effective length to increase/decrease speed etc. When you depressed the brake pedal, the pointy end simply fell down (and off) the accelerator,as that end was "weighted" due to the ingenious incorporation of a small "pen" type torch neatly secured near the point, this serving to assist location (on the pedal) during times of night driving. The initial "base"length had been precisely calculated, setting accelerator depression to provide a highway speed of 100k and one simply kicked it (sideways) "off" the accelerator to disengage, offering it back for "resume" etc. Maintenence free of course, save a drop of dashpot oil on the threaded knob once in a while. But back to my point about these dubious OEM "features" in the first place, being mindful of our American friends who are wont to say, "If it aint there it cant break". How very true. Keep it simple I say. |
   
Daren Unregistered guest Posted From: 217.162.173.122
| Posted on Thursday, 03 June, 2004 - 07:39 pm: |    |
Now it is time for you to put that bottle of whiskey back in the cupboard, wash the glasses, and go to bed. |
   
Martin Taylor Frequent User Username: martin_taylor
Post Number: 30 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Thursday, 03 June, 2004 - 08:22 pm: |    |
John, You describe the cruise control method still used on most motor bikes. I enjoy fixing things like this on these cars it makes me feel as if the car is really mine when I've worked on every system in it, and improved it where possible. Fantastic technology for its age Martin http://members.rennlist.com/martintaylor |
   
John Dare Unregistered guest Posted From: 144.138.194.252
| Posted on Friday, 04 June, 2004 - 07:48 pm: |    |
Thank you gentlemen. Perhaps I should have mentioned that the person who devised the poor mans "cruise control" was a teetotaller who had been a prominent designer of artificial limbs and upon his retirement, modified cars (with auto trans.) for operation by paraplegics. This typically called for some form of hand operated throttle arrangement (and brake actuation) which isnt anything new, since many older cars featured hand operated throttle controls which allowed maintenence of selected engine revolutions etc. Indeed, as I recall, the legendary race driver, Mike Hawthorn had such an arrangement in his own "Jaguar" 3.4, not for racing (due to ever changing track speeds) but rather for sustained open road cruising/touring etc. Perhaps he was a pioneer of modern day cruise control systems many of which continue to be problematic in operation/service etc. I didnt design the "dowel stick" nor did I say that I liked it, anymore than I (or anyone else!) should feel obliged to accept or "like", BMWs gargantuan V12 "Phaeton". A REAL Rolls-Royce? Surely not. |
   
Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 114 Registered: 9-2004
| Posted on Tuesday, 30 November, 2004 - 06:35 am: |    |
More Rubbish From J.G.Dare Of letter fame. |
   
whunter Grand Master Username: whunter
Post Number: 105 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, 30 November, 2004 - 09:58 am: |    |
Attention: Patrick Lockyer. If you can say nothing on topic, say nothing.
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Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 116 Registered: 9-2004
| Posted on Tuesday, 30 November, 2004 - 10:59 am: |    |
Whunter.NOTE the topic is central locking. Read my reply RUBBISH to J.D.Dare of letter fame. I have said nothing on the topic. Confirming in my mind another highjacking of the original topic by Dare!
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whunter Grand Master Username: whunter
Post Number: 107 Registered: 10-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, 30 November, 2004 - 12:32 pm: |    |
>>>He starts here>>> Reading all this makes me so glad that my 1970 Shadow (SRH8058) doesn’t have central locking nor cruise control both of arguable value and a constant source of irritation due to FTW (Failure To Work). >>>And answers questions here>>> Thank you gentlemen. Perhaps I should have mentioned that the person who devised the poor mans "cruise control" was a teetotaler who had been a prominent designer of artificial limbs and upon his retirement, modified cars (with auto trans.) for operation by paraplegics. He meandered off the topic in the first post, and answered off topic questions in the second. Perfectly acceptable, within reason, and I first heard that story from my great grandfather. I am a Master Mechanic; extra gadgets ARE a source of irritation when restoring a car. Your response appears belligerent and rude. RE: RUBBISH to J.D.Dare of letter fame. Are you without sin too cast the first stone??? You said nothing on the topic. You would have been better off to say nothing in this case. High jacking a thread or topic is not my concern or yours, Moderators have that responsibility. Please; less confrontation and more cooperation, we each have our prejudice on technical matters. Nobody needs to be insulted or assaulted over this. We RROC (A) members are preserving, protecting and passing on the Rolls-Royce and Bentley heritage. Well reasoned debate with other members is good; the converse is sad but true. Have a great day. whunter Thank you for your comments which are absolutely correct - as the incidence of sarcasm and general disrespect has shown no signs of abating and is not appreciated by most participants; I advise that, contrary to the Australian ethos of giving everyone a fair go free of censorship wherever possible, all content not directly relevant to the topic will be removed from now on. I regret that this has become necessary and hope the incidence of BLUE type such as this diminishes rapidly. David Gore Moderator (Message edited by david_gore on November 30, 2004) |