| Author | Message | ||
     Philippo Signore New User Username: signore Post Number: 10 Registered: 11-2009 |
Hello, I am the owner of Silver Shadow of 1976 N° SRH 25477. Because of the rust in wings rear, I have to cut them and replace the affected parts of the body. I bought the material(equipment) at Flying spares, but they do not know how to give me an advice concerning the replacement of those parts.Somebody of would have you information or pictures?? Thanks in advance | ||
| Dave Puttock New User Username: ariel Post Number: 6 Registered: 5-2010 |
I guess the answer is, if you have to ask how to fit the panel, you probably can’t. I don’t mean that in any derogatory way but the panels have to be welded on and that is not something to be taken lightly. I suggest that you talk to a friendly body shop and see if they will do the welding for you, even if you want to have a go at the rest yourself. If on the other hand you are adventurous like me, this is what you need to think about. Firstly what welding method are you going to use? Many body shops will stitch panels with lots of tiny spots of MIG (you see it on many of those American hot rod shows). Personally I prefer TIG welding as it has the flexibility of gas welding without so much inherent heat distortion. I have a 100 Amp stick welder with a small HF unit that controls the gas and gives me the HF for starting the arc. It cost me about 250 GBP. The biggest problem beginners find with butt welding thin panels is that they keep blowing holes in the seam, but all this can be reduced with a neat little joggling tool you can buy. It’s like a pair of pliers and you go around the edge of the panel making a 6mm step so that the flange sits behind the body panel and gives some support to the back of the seam. It also lets you clamp them nice and tight as you tack up. I have attached a picture I took when I was tacking up my sills; you will notice that I made up some custom G-clamps to close the seam nicely.  You then need to finish weld in short sections to reduce the likelihood of distortion. Fortunately Rolls Royce panels are quite thick unlike modern cars that seem like paper. When you are happy with the welding you will need to level it all out with body filler (unless you are a purist and want to try the dying art of lead loading. If you try it you will know why it’s a dying art), but that’s a whole new ball game. | ||
| Philippo Signore Experienced User Username: signore Post Number: 11 Registered: 11-2009 |
Dear Dave, Thanks a lot for your answer.i have a MIG without gas(enrobed wire)and i will try to weld by myself. I have to replace the two rear arches and the rear plate below the rear bonnet.I see on your picture that you have some experience with body work and my problem is to find out a method to replace the arches without doing mistakes.I purchased a special tool to make the step of 6mm and also the hole for the welding.you may certainly understand that i don't feel confident in that kind of work because i never did it. That why i am searchnig some enthusiast having done that job before and giving me some tips & tricks to prevent some big mistake. | ||
| Peter Talbot New User Username: squerryes Post Number: 6 Registered: 7-2010 |
Philippo - this really is not a job to be done by a novice welder. You need all the right clamps to secure the panels in place and an experienced appreciation of contour alignment. I agree with Dave - suggest find a local body shop to do it for you. OK, this will cost but think how much you paid for the panels and this becomes a trivial expense. Also - foul up the welding and you are in deep muck if it has to be re-done as you might lose too much metal on cut-out of poorly replaced/defective panels. Body Filler - YUK !! Lead loading is really the only way to get that perfect finish. If you would like to explore this,suggest contact me and I'll give you an online Master Class. Regards Peter | ||
| Philippo Signore Experienced User Username: signore Post Number: 12 Registered: 11-2009 |
Hi Peter, Would you please explain what you mean with "Lead Loading".each information may be very important in my restoration project Best of regards | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 618 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi everyone - I've managed to get a pair of silicone breast implants off ebay. Just wondering if there are anybody out there who could give me a few tips on fitting them to my girlfriend? I've also got a few sharp shiny things that I think I may need. Somebody mentioned something like 'anaesthetic' ? Is that something I need to know about?  | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1258 Registered: 4-2003 |
Paul/ They go on the front and they are handed I think. Anaethesia is always a bit risky so I would try the old bottle of rum down the neck and couple of mates to hold her if she gets fiesty. Do wash your hands first as I know that RR363 on an open wound is quite painful Anyway back to cars, I am thinking of converting the Spur to a Sedanca de Ville. Could you get me a kit over there for the conversion? | ||
| Mark Aldridge Experienced User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 15 Registered: 10-2008 |
Bill , I think you may need a tinopener for starters. | ||
| Peter Talbot New User Username: squerryes Post Number: 7 Registered: 7-2010 |
I thought I'd joined a serious Forum, so it's good to find you are all a load of nutters - I'll fit in well. Paul sounds desparate to enhance his girl friends assets, maybe he just dosen't appreciate quality over quantity. Tinopener not good idea, suggest use angle grinder with diamond disc as much less effort required (if a bit messy). Peter | ||
| Peter Talbot New User Username: squerryes Post Number: 8 Registered: 7-2010 |
Philippo - back to the serious stuff. Any car body repair, whether it be a minor dent or a welded panel replacement, needs to be finished prior to painting. These days a two part epoxy filler is generally used to provide the required smooth surface and obscure faults. Yes, it works, but just dosen't produce that absolutely perfect finish that can be achieved by "Lead Loading". "Lead Loading" is a generic term for the filling and finishing of repairs with a lead-tin alloy - rather similar to a plumber " wiping a joint". It is an arcane art but well worth learning and I would be happy to help. Peter | ||
| Peter Talbot New User Username: squerryes Post Number: 9 Registered: 7-2010 |
Lead Loading. As very much a new Member of this Forum, I'm uncertain as to where to post this message but here goes: Lead Loading is a skill being lost to the current generation but I consider is well worth preseving. Epoxy fillers are all very well but just don't get that perfection achieved by Lead Loading. My Offer: I'd be happy to put together a definitive online Master Class which, if approved, might be added to the RROCA database. Query: what do you think on this idea ? Peter | ||
| Philippo Signore Experienced User Username: signore Post Number: 13 Registered: 11-2009 |
Dear Peter, if it may help me or somebody else , it justifies the publication . In any case, i will be happy to have it as information Bye | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 619 Registered: 6-2006 |
Bill - THE FRONT! Oh Man - no wonder she's turned out like Quasimodo! Seriously now though - Bill, you must have a set of old cricket stumps around. That and a gabardine rain mac is all you need. I look forward to seeing the finished result. Tin opener definitely the tool of choice. Sparks from the angle grinder are going to ruin your interior! And back to the stupidity , , , , Phillipo , go and buy a scrap car for £50, buy a load of repair sections, and practice on them. In the mean time, find a good repair shop to weld the repair sections in and finish the car. I think you'll end up a very good repair that you will be proud of - and save yourself a load of money and expense to boot. Sorry. | ||
| Philippo Signore Experienced User Username: signore Post Number: 14 Registered: 11-2009 |
Paul, Thanks for your support | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 620 Registered: 6-2006 |
Phillipo, Welcome to the board. Sorry if I seem flippant. We can be serious on here and very helpful. We are ALWAYS supportive. We also TRY to be realistic. You are asking how to do a job that many professional body shops would refuse to try and do. A job that that many body shops might try to do and get seriously wrong - wasting materials and money in the mean time. If you'd like a serious answer - "don't try and do it yourself". If you are hell bent on doing it yourself, do get another vehicle with cheap repair sections, to practice on. You run the risk of seriously devaluing your vehicle, wasting your time and money, if you get it wrong. The most helpful suggestion I can give would be to visit a few local body shops and ask if they know of any retired panel repairers that might be interested in coming and helping you out (for just a meal and a drink, hopefully). Try contacting some local car clubs and see if there are any retired body guys in their ranks that might be helpful. | ||
| Philippo Signore Experienced User Username: signore Post Number: 15 Registered: 11-2009 |
Dear Paul, I will search in that direction. Thanks a lot | ||
| Bill Payne Frequent User Username: wimpy Post Number: 56 Registered: 1-2007 |
Paul forgot to mention the time element as well. As far as Peter's volunteering to teach an arcane art...I for one would love to see the online seminar. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 963 Registered: 4-2003 |
OK - we have had some fun however some very important matters have arisen as a result. First, a comprehensive guide in plain language to practical safe lead loading of body joins would create enduring recognition and gratitude for the author from many custodians including myself. This should be started in the form of a thread on this forum and when completed; an edited version of the thread could be placed in the Technical Library for future generations. Whilst Paul's initial contribution may not have been understood by some of our members; it did draw attention to aspects of the intended project that properly needed highlighting and also brought forward some good suggestions from other members. The importance of practicing on a junk car before attempting to work on the restoration car cannot be over-emphasised. You always learn by making mistakes and a junk car is the only way to go in this instance - I will always support someone willing to have a go PROVIDED they a fully aware of the risks and problems that they will encounter on the way and they have sufficient financial resources to use professionals to complete the project if things really go bad along the way. The pride and satisfaction of doing the work himself may be an important consideration for Phillipo and only he knows whether the risks involved are justified. Phillipo, whatever you do, please keep us informed about your restoration as we will all learn something from your experiences. (Message edited by david_gore on 09 July 2010) | ||
| Peter Talbot New User Username: squerryes Post Number: 10 Registered: 7-2010 |
Sounds like the idea to produce a Guide to Lead Losding is a goer. I quite agree with David's point that it be best conducted via a new Thread on this Forum. I'll estabish a new Thread PDQ. Peter | ||
| Philippo Signore Experienced User Username: signore Post Number: 16 Registered: 11-2009 |
Dear sirs, I am very happy for the interest you demonstrate about my demand.I will wait till i got more informations about "lead leading" before starting to weld the new metal sheets on my car.I will try to find an enthusiast with a lot of experience to cut and weld those the new plates.I follow the new item lead leading on this forum. Many thanks Bye |
