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whunter
Experienced User
Username: whunter

Post Number: 7
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Saturday, 08 November, 2003 - 10:58 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Everyone
Wire, wire, every where, and which is the most original in appearance?
I used the last spool I had today and called my old supplier.
"Gad", he retired and sold the business to a corporation that scrapped his old stock as trash!
I am open to suggestions.
Three friends have suggested using early MG wire spools; they think its close enough.
_________________
whunter
RROC, Lake Michigan, Motor and Ohio region.
ASE Master Mechanic
Bloomfield Eurotech
45671 Woodward Avenue
Pontiac, MI 48341 USA
Work Phone 248-334-6400 Fax 248-334-2363
asemastermechanic@juno.com
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 135
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 10 November, 2003 - 06:06 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Whunter,

Do you hace car club "swap meets" in the USA where everyone comes to sell/buy/swap parts etc as wire resellers usually attend these. I would suggest for safety and longevity reasons that you use modern wire rather than original as the insulation stability has improved dramatically over the years.

It is my understanding modern wire is not marked down in Concours judging as it seen as a safety item however I will stand corrected by a concours judge if I am incorredct.
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Bill Vatter
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 66.20.177.117
Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2003 - 08:18 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David,

Modern wire that looks like the old stuff is available in the US. It has a cloth cover, and cannot be told from the original, but under the cloth cover, the insulator is synthetic. A few years ago, I rewired a P-II with this stuff, using the original type Ross-Courtney connectors (also available) and waxed string to whip the ends of the wire. Many different colors are available, including colored tracer on other color base, to exactly match the original factory installed wiring. With modern wire technology underneath, and with the car not being subjected to harsh environmental conditions it should last 100 years.

If you car going to rewire a prewar car, this, in my opinion, is the only way to go. You will never have to worry about it again.

The only problem is labor. With re-stringing it through the original hard conduit, fussing with those Ross-Courtneys and the whipped ends (and of course getting the old wire out which is far more difficult than stringing new) I probably spent 150 hours rewiring. At shop rates that is significant money just to get nice wires.
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whunter
Frequent User
Username: whunter

Post Number: 20
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 11 November, 2003 - 08:28 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello Bill
Where do you get your wire?
Thank you.
whunter
RROC, Lake Michigan, Motor and Ohio region.
ASE Master Mechanic
Bloomfield Eurotech
45671 Woodward Avenue
Pontiac, MI 48341
Work Phone 248-334-6400 Fax 248-334-2363
asemastermechanic@juno.com
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rich cwik
New User
Username: lotusrich

Post Number: 2
Registered: 1-2004
Posted on Sunday, 05 December, 2004 - 02:50 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

A good source I've used in the US for these various colored wires (inckuding new plastic wiring covered with woven cloth to original patterns and colors) is a place called British Wiring Inc., 20449 Ithaca Road, Olympia Fields, Illinois, USA, 60461. There phone number is 708-481-9050, and their web address is www.Britishwiring.com
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Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 291
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 05 December, 2004 - 08:54 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Sympathy is not available from this writer. Nearly six years ago I pulled seven looms out of my S2 Bentley and had new ones made. I have got one back in the car so far!! As Bill V says it is a time consuming task regardless of the car. The post I note appears under the Cloud banner so I assume Bill H is in a similar position. I can help with an original wiring diagram if you need it. I had the new looms made and not taped or terminated. This saved me about $1000. The tape incidentally is special in that it has no adhesive and needs a blue glue to seal the ends (not as professional as the whipped ones). I went unoriginal and further sealed the ends with very neutral coloured heat shrink sleeves. I went down this route because I was horrified to find that a major restorer actually cut the wires under the dash connected a new bit and poked it out into the engine bay. So we have roughly 150 new joints to go wrong! The other thing I learnt was to twist the wiring before taping. Being simple minded I was sure that all the wires should be straight and parallel but fortunately called the wiring specialist who forbid it. If the wires are as I would have them the loom is almost impossible to bend - so there. The twist is not great and conforms to the original.
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rich cwik
New User
Username: lotusrich

Post Number: 7
Registered: 1-2004
Posted on Thursday, 14 April, 2005 - 01:03 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bill- would you have a Cloud III wiring diagram ?- I'm having some trouble in a Cloud II lwb heater circuit( with all the servo motors in the water flow path) and supposedly they were wired like a Cloud III ( I don't know, I've never worked on a Cloud III).Rich

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