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David Hughes
New User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 10
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Thursday, 28 December, 2006 - 21:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Help please!
Could someone please advise - I am stripping the engine from our 1957 Silver Cloud (SED 347)and having great difficulty undoing the crankshaft pulley nut. The Workshop manual doesn't indicate if this is left or right hand thread. Any information would be very much appreciated.
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Peter Colwell
Experienced User
Username: peter_colwell

Post Number: 34
Registered: 3-2005
Posted on Friday, 29 December, 2006 - 08:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The factory manual I have has the following under 'removing wheel case and pulley';

"A three-start left-hand 'Acme' thread on the fan pulley prevents oil leakage from the wheel case...the pulley can be removed without the need for any special tool."

I'm not sure if this helps, but someone who has done the job will surely know.

I see that your car SED 347 was delivered new just one month after mine, 10/57, mine in 9/57.
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David Hughes
Experienced User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 11
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Friday, 29 December, 2006 - 13:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Peter
Thank you for your reply, very much appreciated.
I think the reference to the acme thread is probably on the outsde diameter of the pulley spigot where it enters the wheel case.
As you say, someone will know.
Best Regards
David
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Bill Vatter
Frequent User
Username: bill_vatter

Post Number: 39
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Saturday, 30 December, 2006 - 11:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The pulley nut is right-hand thread. As you discovered, the nut is sometimes on there very tight. Use an impact wrench to take it off. It may be necessary to apply as much as 200 ft.-lb torque to the nut.

After the nut is off, the difficult is not past. The pully may come off with your hands only but probably you will need a puller mounted with the two screws that hold the locking plate in position.

When the pulley is off, you must remove the oil jet for the gears before the cover will come off. The jet sticks in there behind the damper, preventing the cover from moving forward. Use a back-up wrench removing the oil pipe or the jet itself will probably rotate with the nut and you will twist the pipe.

The gear cover is a very tight fit, and you will need to patiently work it off. getting all of the bolts out first will help.

Then you remove the hub, and underneath the hub there is a special nut secured with a locking device. That nut requires a special socket, you will probably have to make because it is not available anywhere I know.

With the nut removed, you will need another puller to get the damper off, which is on a taper. It is possible to shortcut using the special puller. You glue some fat washers on the end of the pulley nut, remount the hyb securely, and tighten the nut back on the hub (without pulley). The washers on the end of the nut will press against the end of the crankshaft and pop the damper off the taper.

Patience, brother, there are trials ahead.





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David Hughes
Experienced User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 12
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Saturday, 30 December, 2006 - 14:10:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Bill
That information is priceless - Thank you very much - there's no substitute for experience.

I'll proceed now with patience and caution.
I'll report how I go.
Thank you once again.
Best Regards
David
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Bill Vatter
Frequent User
Username: bill_vatter

Post Number: 40
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, 31 December, 2006 - 04:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

When you get to the serrated nut that secures the damper, after releasing the locking device that holds the nut, you probably will be able to get the nut loose using a small steel drift to tap in the counter-clockwise direction to turn the nut off. That will mess up the serrations a little, but you will be able to file those square after removing the nut.

The point of doing it that way is that after the nut is off, you will be able to use the nut relatively easily as a gage in manufacturing your special socket to grip the nut for reinstallation later. I think there are some instructions for making the socket on KDA132.com

Do not, do not, attempt to reinstall the nut with a drift because you will not get it tight enough to seat the taper. The three keys that the damper mounts on to position it are not sufficient in themselves to hold the damper. There is extremely high vibratory torque in the tapered joint, enough to fret the keys and result in a loose damper on the end of the crankshaft. After that there will be progressive destruction of those parts, with corresponding significant expense to finally make it right afterwards.

You will need a socket and adjustable impact wrench to replace the damper and tighten the nut. At least 80 ft-lb torque will be needed to reinstall it properly.


(Message edited by bill vatter on December 31, 2006)
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David Hughes
Experienced User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 13
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Sunday, 31 December, 2006 - 12:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Bill
Thank you.
Following your instructions the nut, pulley and cover are off - successfully and without damage.
To be continued.
Regards
David
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Bill Vatter
Frequent User
Username: bill_vatter

Post Number: 41
Registered: 9-2004
Posted on Sunday, 31 December, 2006 - 22:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good,

After removing the hub (4 small nuts secured with locking washers) you will see the serrated nut that holds the damper. Carefully bend back the tabs on the locking device only enough to turn the nut. You may be able to reuse the locking washer.

I suggect you get a small inexpensive steel drift and grind the end at a slight angle and flat on one side to be able to make a very good fit in one of the notches of the serrated nut. Then you strike the drift to loosen the nut. This is a rather crude method, but it should work.

taking the nut locking washer and plain washer off, note very carefully the orientation of the plain washer underneath that has chamfer on its edges to properly fit against the nose of the crankshaft.

On the end of the crankshaft you will see the plug for the hollow center. You can do nothing with that now, but you will take it out later when you are stripping the carnkshaft. Select some ordianry flat washers large enough to go against the edge of the crankshaft so they will not press only on the oil plug.

Re=attach the hub with the 4 nuts, but the locking washers are not necessary.

With contact cement glue the washers onto the pulley nut exactly in the center of the nut. You want about 3/16 inch thickness of washers. Your goal with the washers is that when you screw the pulley nut into the hub, it will bottom with the washers resting against the nose of the crankshaft before the flange of the nut contacts the hub, but not more than necessary because you want maximum thread engagement of the pulley nut with the hub.

Lubricate the threads of the pulley nut, and tighten it down in the hub. Now with your impact wrench set on the lowest torque setting tighten up on the pulley nut and the washers pressing against the crankshaft nose will pull the damper from the end of the crankshaft.

I strongly advise that you place orientation marks on everything as it comes apart. You may loose the camshaft timing orientation during your work, which can be reset, but if possible you want the gears to return to their original mesh for quiet running. There are three different positions of the pinion gear, which is integral with the damper, that will give identical timing, but if your final assembly of the damper is off 120 degrees, you may wind up with noisy gears.

Proceed slowly and methodically, and you will understand what I describe above.
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David Hughes
Experienced User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 14
Registered: 7-2004
Posted on Monday, 01 January, 2007 - 10:00:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Bill
Firstly as it is 1/1/07 in Australia - Happy New Year.

I have access to facilities to make the tools required (serrated nut spanner/wrench)and a correct puller - I will do that tommorrow.
As you suggest I have etch marked each item, hopefully making rebuild easier.
I'll keep you updated as to progress.
Thank you again for your great help.
Regards
David

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