| Author | Message | ||
     felipe de gloria Unregistered guest Posted From: 85.59.172.5 |
Hello, Looking to purchase a 1960 S2 but found a most unusual defect where the two heater switches seem permanently fixed in the upright off position as if they were mock. No turns or pull on either. Why would someone delete these instead of just accepting heater doesn’t work and leave switches alone ?? Unless there’s some extraordinary reason I’m unaware of… Also the light switch on the switchbox is not like other rounded switches but more angular and although turns either side will not pull out, hence the capping rail lamp doesn't function...can a switch only be exchanged on the assembly, and would a SS1 switchbox be compatible? Were map lamps (under dashboard either side)fitted on all S2 series as I’ve seen on SCIII? None on the S2. Thank you (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Balfour Frequent User Username: sidchrome Post Number: 63 Registered: 2-2009 |
The switches are most likely seized in position. One of mine was tight and the other was completely seized. I removed the seized one and completely disassembled it to clean and lubricate. I am an engineer by profession and a former electrical fitter/mechanic from the elevator industry, and a fairly detailed guy. I would strongly advise you to pursue all non-disassembly options first, as this is difficult. It can be done but requires enormous level of care during disassembly with a closeup photo of each and every contact set and cam prior to removal from the stack. Each stage has a cam that can go on in multiple positions and although I repaired these types of switches during my trade, this was one of the worst I have encountered for complexity. You can of course send them away, and let some other mug clean and repair them. They would hopefully have made a test bed for testing afterwards. I even thought about doing this myself and offering a service, but have never done so. You could remove them and soak in penetrating lubricant to soften hardened grease, but the cams will all need a fresh grease/petroleum jelly coating as oil/penetrant is too thin, and the switch is tough to turn without a viscous lubricant on the position notches particularly. My late RHD SCII only has one reading lamp, on the passenger side of the car, and the green diffused lamp under the capping rail. The Lucas servos that these switches control- 2 for water and 2 for flaps, may well too be seized, as were mine, but the motors were just fine. The reason was the length of tungsten wire between the motor and internal terminal is likely of sufficient resistance when the motor is seized to protect the windings. I removed my flap servos, disassembled them and they now work beautifully. You may need to order new top hats for the servos (little rubber top hat covers that go over the motors), but this is not an issue as they are readily available. It's easy enough to check if the switch boxes are interchangeable by looking at the parts catalogue - and diagrams. I cannot recall off hand if all S series get the capping rail light- and thus light switch, but I'm sure someone here will be able to comment. | ||
| felipe de gloria Unregistered guest Posted From: 85.59.172.5 |
Many Thanks David...very helpful information... I've also further researched and found that the capping rail light works pulling the PANEL switch. I didn't check if the passenger side has a map lamp, but if the PANEL switch already has its function, doubt there's a map lamp but will verify. I have a SCIII where the exterior lights switch pull is for capping light and PANEL switch for both map lamps, hence the S2 light switch which doesn't pull out is correct. I found a contact in the UK who repairs heater switches which is a relief, but of course I can't verify if the heater works where I would anticipate a reduction on the selling price ! Since this example is a one owner from new I’m very concerned with factory original. Furthermore there are rare lamps on the front wings (I believe on the factory special features sheet are referred to as ‘front winker lamps’) similar to those on coach-built continentals and they indicate and not the top wing indicator lamps, or are these parking lights? I would prefer the contrary and suppose it's a question of rewiring. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1828 Registered: 6-2006 |
It is usually just the bush to spindle that seizes and I have never had any joy with penetrating fluid & spray grease once seized. Some joy on slightly stiff ones. However if you want to have a go, you don't need to strip the whole switch down, just the front row. But it is an incredible work of over engineering and you will need peace and quiet to do it  |
