Post Number: 25
|Posted on Saturday, 17 September, 2016 - 20:45: |
as you may have seen in my previous post that i successfully got my silver cloud 2 started after many years, so i have a few more questions to get it going right.
transmission fluid - i found in my owners manual that the previous owner made a note that he was using castol transmax TQ. after searching extensively i can't find any information on it or its availability.
From about 5 years ago i was using Castrol transmax M, i can't even find any availability of that now!!!
What are you using for transmission power steering fluid in 2016? all i could find was CAstrol ATF Heavy duty recommended for trucks.
Also i have noticed that the linkage that goes under the transmission is very loose, is this normal or is there a bush kit that i could buy to get it tight
Post Number: 350
|Posted on Saturday, 17 September, 2016 - 21:12: |
Michael, there is a thread on this forum some years ago about ATF. I have used Dexron3 in my S1 and later cars since that thread.There are several opinions about this, but a certainty is that the whale oil based ATF that was used originally is not available ! Draining the torus unit is very high risk, and personally I would not attempt it.
Post Number: 27
|Posted on Saturday, 17 September, 2016 - 21:43: |
thanks Mark, i did an extensive search on the cloud threads and found nothing on type of ATF.
i did read though not to attempt to drain torus.
thanks again on the suggestion on dex 3
Post Number: 99
|Posted on Saturday, 17 September, 2016 - 22:47: |
I would go Dexron 6, the most advanced. It is downwards compatible with any earlier Dex. Plan to change the oil again after a few hundred miles instead of draining the torus to get most of the old oil out.
These gearboxes used to be called "Jercomatics", but that is undeserved. They are very sensitive to proper adjustment for smooth operation. With a sloppy gearchange linkage you cannot expect to achieve proper adjustments.
Just my topence....
Post Number: 351
|Posted on Saturday, 17 September, 2016 - 23:07: |
Michael, from memory it was on the Shadow or Spirit thread.
Post Number: 2206
|Posted on Sunday, 18 September, 2016 - 08:58: |
You might find Paul Yorke's post dated 21 July 2016 in the following thread covers your interest in the various grades of Dexron over the years:
Post Number: 28
|Posted on Sunday, 18 September, 2016 - 19:55: |
thanks everyone for replying.
i managed to top up the transmission with close to 2L of ATF.
I will dismantle the the gear selection linkage in the next couple of days see if i can most of the play out.
My issue with all this is that I'm getting power to the wheels in neutral .
Christian S. Hansen
Post Number: 375
|Posted on Sunday, 18 September, 2016 - 20:12: |
Have you considered that on the Cloud series, the transmission is all direct mechanical linkage, no electric motors like on the Shadow, so simply disconnect the linkage at the transmission and move the transmission mounted selector through its various positions until you find neutral, then back adjust the linkage correspondingly.
Post Number: 2066
|Posted on Monday, 19 September, 2016 - 02:22: |
Just because the thread referred to by David Gore is so long (and a lot of it is not particularly relevant), here's the direct link to the Paul Yorke post on Dexron-VI in that thread.
I still use Dexron-III compatible fluid, but that's just because it's still readily available and it works. I have no doubt that the improvements in all lubricants have carried over into later Dexron formulations, too.
Post Number: 1641
|Posted on Monday, 19 September, 2016 - 05:38: |
I'm guessing you have a RHD car and mean the linkage where it is attached to the transmission ring gear cover ( or a similar set up on the opposite chassis rail?)
There should be two rubber bushes (top hat bushes) RG5085 I think which has a spacer inside to stop them getting crushed.
These rubbers often perish and fall out/apart leaving a very floppy gear shift linkage and can affect gear changing slightly.
Is the car driving forward when in neutral or is it when the car wheels are off the ground and the rear wheels are just spinning. (spinning off the ground is usual.)
Post Number: 29
|Posted on Monday, 19 September, 2016 - 08:42: |
Thanks guys, I had a good read of Paul Yorkes write up on dex6.
Christian, that's the next thing I will do, thanks for the suggestion unless,
Paul, the car is on jack stands at the moment. The more throttle I apply in neutral the more power that goes to them. I have a rhd car, and you are correct that the bush near the bellhousing has perished as described. Is there anywhere local I can get hold of it or I'll order from FS or introcar.
Christian S. Hansen
Post Number: 377
|Posted on Monday, 19 September, 2016 - 09:27: |
Take the following in the spirit in which it is intended, that is, as a field expedient workaround while you debug the issues and await proper parts to arrive.
The series of various linkages have numerous rubber bushings that are most certainly either deteriorated or completely missing and without proper fit without slop at each point, the "global" tolerance for proper operation cannot be achieved.
The average well stocked hardware store will have a variety of grommets and generic plastic or rubber bushings than can be trimmed or cut to use as temporary "fixings". I have even used strips of tire inner tube rolled up and jammed into appropriate linkages to remove the slop and substitute for the proper item. As you do this at each linkage juncture, the integrity of the system will improve. One word of caution though. DO NOT be tempted to adjust the LENGTH of anything to compensate for slop. Consult the service manual first. Of course this does not rule out the possibility that someone previously may have already fouled things up by making improper length adjustments, but until you get all the rubber bushings tightened up, assume the linkage lengths to be proper. Chances are, once you get rid of the slop, things will begin to operate properly again.
Post Number: 15
|Posted on Tuesday, 20 September, 2016 - 09:09: |
Can someone please explain the risk in draining the torus of the 4 speed hydramatic? I note from an entry in 2008 this is described as very risky. The draining part is easy as there is a drain plug in the torus itself. I assume the risk has something to do with the period while the new fluid is pumped through into an empty torus. Can this be achieved safely or at least partially achieved by rotating the output shaft?
Post Number: 30
|Posted on Tuesday, 20 September, 2016 - 09:32: |
I've been doing a lot of research over past few weeks but I'm no expert. My understanding why not to drain the torus is due to the risk of damaging the drain plug! That's all.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.