| Author | Message | ||
     mglanville Unregistered guest Posted From: 121.44.20.141 |
After maintenance to the control and ride rods in the steering column and re assembly of the linkage rods to the carburetter etc I discovered the rods were still not working. Long story short I have located the non working part. The countershaft in the bracket assembly (which attaches to the steering box) is locked tight. I have removed the part from the steering box to soak and try and free, but with no success. There are brass bushes either end of the shaft which appear to hold the shaft in place and prevent movement. To be able to pull apart and see why the shaft has locked tight I am thinking I need to undo/remove/slide the brass bushes so i can inspect and free, but how are they removed....any thoughts? As the complete assembly has these brass bushes I dont wish to soak in Molasses and i havent applied heat at this stage. I tried to add a diagram but cant get the image small enough to add. Its shown in schedule of spare parts under section P Fuel and Carburation Group P2, part 3551 is the assembly, offending part shown as RE4275 and shown as 9 in diagram assembly. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Colin Silver Yet to post message Username: colsilver Post Number: 1 Registered: 8-2008 |
For your diagram picture, you can upload the big detailed one for free to http://www.imageshack.us/ You will be shown a link, which you can post here for the members to look at. | ||
| Martin Cutler Frequent User Username: martin_cutler Post Number: 86 Registered: 7-2007 |
Hi Mark, For a steel and brass combination, maybe try a caustic solution to disolve the rust? Caustic is no good for alloy, but won't hurt the brass. Leave it to soak for a good while. Cheers Marty | ||
| Mark Glanville New User Username: mark_glanville Post Number: 8 Registered: 5-2008 |
I have now added the diagram from the RR spare parts schedule to show the housing and the shaft. Part 9 as shown is locked tight within the assembly (housing) part 6. It would appear to be held in place by the brass bushes at either end. I will apply heat and see if this loosens the part concerned. I have soaked the part in molasses but with no luck. (does molasses really work?)  | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1007 Registered: 4-2003 |
Mark get yourself a quantity of WD40 not a pressure pack, and immerse the whole assembly in it. Leave for a week or two it will loosen eventually. One other method is to use a freezing spray on the shaft - there are various brands and if necessary heat the outside part. Be patient, you will win without violence or damage! | ||
| Mark Glanville New User Username: mark_glanville Post Number: 9 Registered: 5-2008 |
After soaking in Molasses and applying heat the parts have been freed and placed back in car and are working as they were designed. This was all undertaken to help eliminate possibilities of problems in solving a bigger problem and to help the carburetter function better during startup and when running. Now onto why the car has no pull under acceleration, considering it seems to idle well? (which it did prior to fixing the linkages). I will try and restart an old thread which had a similar problem but didnt appear to be resolved. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1040 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well done, you must just be about to be tested for your first qualification in the subject 'Overcoming Rolls-Royce Embuggerances 1' which is a Hell of a long way ahead of many of my fellow Club members who need an immediate dose of antacid after merely opening the bonnet!! From your description the one thing you have to determine is that when the accelerator is flat to the floor (including the carpet mats etc) that the throttle butterfly is wide open. The result is achieved by adjustement of all those rods and levers which you can work out for yourself. Many years ago (here we go again!) there was a Phantom that passed just too quickly from owner to owner until finally the secret came out, it was gutless. Smooth no doubt, brim full glasses of Chardonay on the valve cover while under full acceleration, but top speed impossibly legal and acceleration didn't even cause the ice bucket to slide on the beautifully inlaid drop down occasional table. (Pauses to recover composure!) The owner who finally pulled the Arthurian Sword from the Stone and actually thought about the problem, made the very check I have suggested as yes, you guessed it, the bloody throttle would not open more than half way! Seems that the car had been rebodied and the rebodying owner had died before he drove it so nobody but the higher mathematics compiler of two and two together worked out the problem! The discovering owner whipped out a length of rod quickly threaded it both ends, inserted in the maze of mechanism and lo full throttle. Legend has it that he was caught on a major highway doing well in excess of 100 mph with smoking tyres from doing burn-outs but perhaps that is just legend. The essence of the story is true! | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1526 Registered: 4-2003 |
Wasn't the first paragraph in the Learner Drivers' handbook for every 16 year old: Make sure that, with the accelerator to the floor, the carbuterttors on Dad's car are fully open. | ||
| Mark Glanville New User Username: mark_glanville Post Number: 10 Registered: 5-2008 |
Yes Bill and Richard the butterfly throttle opens fine and the car starts fine. The car seems to show more signs of grunt when immediately starting the car, is this because the float reservoir is full??? Its the immediacy of pickup that its lacking, there just nothing there??? more so when its being idling a while, (not what id call a pronouced flatspot, there just no grunt)any other clues where to start, other than rebuilding the carby? Yes im sure also that the gaskets need replacing, now that ive had the reservoir apart a few times. But is the problem more do to with the mixture? are the jets the problem? Maybe its not the Carby at all? but thats just where im at, ATM. I will admit to turning the dizzy slightly but this didnt change made it better or worst in my opinion. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1043 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well guess for the day, The car is a Wraith? so it has a Stromberg dual throat carburetter. This includes an accelerator pump. I suspect from your descriptions that it is not working. A simple check is to peer down the barrels of the carb and open the throttle quickly. There should be jets of fuel squirted down the holes. No squirt no pickup in fact usually if the pump is not working the engine will stall when the throttle is opened if this is not happening it is getting a bit of fuel but not enough. It is all in the manual. | ||
| Mark Glanville Experienced User Username: mark_glanville Post Number: 11 Registered: 5-2008 |
Happy New Year all. I have decided to play with the car again....although its getting close to being parted if i dont sort this thing out....the cliff was another option but the car wont drive any further than 10 metres before it dies of power. I will however, stick with the idea of rebuilding the carby and replacing jets etc...but before I do, could the problem be the coil and/or the condensor, any thoughts? Bear in mind that the car isn't hard to start and is ok at the idle without coughing. Oh by the way Bill, its a Silver Wraith with a stromberg carby. |
