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Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley

Post Number: 36
Registered: 10-2024
Posted on Wednesday, 01 July, 2026 - 03:55:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I had my 4 1/4 lt engine professionally restored about 26 yrs ago. engine has sat idle since due to may reasons. I have successfully started the engine last yr. and had it running again this yr. now working on clutch. Clutch does not engage. removed lower cover and found the ball bearing housing moving freely about 3/4" but never touches the adjuster screw on the release lever. was thinking of adjusting adjuster screw to cover the distance, but it may not long enough. any ideas/recommendations.
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David Hughes
Experienced User
Username: wedcar

Post Number: 189
Registered: 07-2004
Posted on Wednesday, 01 July, 2026 - 17:26:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Chris
I know virtually nothing regarding these cars, others will know much better than I, however please find attached information, trust that helps.
https://www.rrtechnical.info/mkvi/wshoplate/5.pdf
Regards
David
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Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley

Post Number: 37
Registered: 10-2024
Posted on Wednesday, 01 July, 2026 - 22:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks David for the additional information.
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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 757
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 02 July, 2026 - 03:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

https://www.rrtechnical.info/mkvi/wshoplate/5.pdf

Here's the live link to make things easier.

Don't start turning those screws, they are adjusted properly at the factory and should not be used to take up the slack to the clutch release bearing.

The adjustment is on the linkage that attaches to the end of the clutch pedal, there's nothing to adjust inside the bell housing, there's a turn buckle that adjusts the play (one end has a left hand thread).
It's a bit of a bear to get at, I'll see if I can find a photo.
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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 758
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 02 July, 2026 - 04:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Adjustment is made on rod #12.

Make sure that the threads are free and easy to turn, they should turn by hand under ideal conditions.

If the threads are damaged/dirty, forcing things will put sideways pressure on the clevis pins and cause binding on the linkage.
Once done, the adjustment rod should move freely on the clevis pins.

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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 759
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 02 July, 2026 - 04:13:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Also, here is the link to the technical library, it's gone here on the site, or it was moved and I can't find it.

http://rrtechnical.info/
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Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley

Post Number: 38
Registered: 10-2024
Posted on Thursday, 02 July, 2026 - 08:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks for replying Jeff. I have max'd out the clutch adjuster pull rod (12). No effect. Looking through the bottom (with clutch cover removed) I can see the ball bearing housing move but never reaches the adjusting screws.
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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 760
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Thursday, 02 July, 2026 - 09:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I rebuilt my transmission a while ago now and had the floor removed to do it, and getting things mixed up with all that linkage is pretty easy to do.

The only thing I can suggest now is that something has not been put back correctly.
Perhaps lever #5 is the wrong way around ?

EDIT:
Was the original un-sealed bearing used, that's important that it was.
Typing this from memory.
Sealed bearings can be thinner and that may be your problem.
I think the original was soldered in this case too, and the whole thing was oiled by the central oiling system.
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Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley

Post Number: 39
Registered: 10-2024
Posted on Thursday, 02 July, 2026 - 22:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Jeff for replying. Don't know if original bearing was used.
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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 761
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Saturday, 04 July, 2026 - 09:31:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Rod 12 and 7 may be reversed, #12 should be at the top, or nearest the floor.

Also as mentioned before, lever 5 is longer in one direction then the other, the long part is facing the road.

Number 2 can also be flipper around the other way where #5 lever fits into, this would severely limit its travel.

Here's a video showing #12 rod in the correct position, at about the 2:35 mark. (seen better at the 3:37 mark)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUs_gN4KTcc

If you take a photo of the bearing through the inspection port, I may be able to tell if it's the original type.

Don't know what else to suggest other then seeing the car in person.
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Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley

Post Number: 40
Registered: 10-2024
Posted on Wednesday, 08 July, 2026 - 03:42:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Jeff. Will take a pic when I'm down there again.

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