| Author |
Message |
    
Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley
Post Number: 30
Registered: 10-2024
| | Posted on Monday, 20 October, 2025 - 20:25: |    |
I'm having a hard time starting my 49 MK VI.What should the static timing be for the car?
Thanks |
Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1
Post Number: 746
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Tuesday, 21 October, 2025 - 09:28: | |
With modern fuels today, I set mine at 3 degrees before top dead centre.
That's a static timing done while the engine isn't running. |
Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley
Post Number: 31
Registered: 10-2024
| | Posted on Tuesday, 21 October, 2025 - 19:33: | |
Thanks Jeff. How can you tell how many degrees, as there are only 3 rows of o's seen on the flywheel.
The center being TDC. |
Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1
Post Number: 747
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Wednesday, 22 October, 2025 - 04:15: | |
It's just not that critical on a low compression engine like this for initial set and start-up procedures.
TDC is fine an 1/8 of an inch before the TDC line will work well enough.
If you want to get it dead accurate, a timing light where you can adjust the degrees on is nice to have.
I'm assuming that the rotor is pointing no #1 when the flywheel is at TDC ?
The instructions in the manual with the light bulb works very well and is simple.
The rotor turns clock wise, so you turn the distributor body counter clockwise until the light goes out, that's when you get your spark.
Points are set at 20 thou.
Firing order is on the distributor cap.
I don't want to talk down to you here, so I won't go any further unless you ask, but many people get confused about ignition timing and forget that the rotor turns half the speed of the engine.
Other things; check the spark at the coil once you get the ignition timing set up, then from the wire to the cap.
Check the steel spikes on the distributor cap for corrosion, even more so if the car has been stored where it's cold and damp.
If it is cold and damp, it will have to be choked to full with the throttle about half open.
If you have the built in resistor on the rotor, don't run resistor plugs or wires.
I'd be curios what the compression is, but it should still start even if something is wrong there.
If it was running, the ignition timing won't need adjusting. |
Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley
Post Number: 32
Registered: 10-2024
| | Posted on Thursday, 23 October, 2025 - 01:39: | |
Hi Jeff.
Thanks a million for all the help. Finally got the engine to run. Used the light bulb trick to set the timing. Looks like the timing was off. The engine was firing past tdc, but just a bit. That is why I did manage to get it going a couple of times before. Now its running well. Will need to adjust the carbs.
I had the engine rebuilt quite a few years ago. My compression tester shows all cylinders between 62 and 72 psi, but the tester might be off.
Thanks again.
Chris |
Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1
Post Number: 748
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Thursday, 23 October, 2025 - 04:33: | |
That's a low compression number even for that engine, were the butterfly valves on the carbs all the way open, to get full compression atmosphere has to be able to get into the engine ?
My engine is at 115 psi after a complete rebuild some 22,000 miles later, but I used aftermarket forged pistons with modern rings and such.
The bores were fully sleeved and brought back to it's 3.5 inch bore.
Do you know if you're still running the half chimney liners ? |
Chris Tokarski
New User
Username: 49bentley
Post Number: 33
Registered: 10-2024
| | Posted on Thursday, 23 October, 2025 - 21:03: | |
Hi Jeff,
The engine was cold and no the butterfly valves were closed. I'll retest the compression again with valve open and engine warm.
When engine was rebuilt no liner was put in. |