| Author | Message | ||
     Edward Shoesmith New User Username: younghenri Post Number: 46 Registered: 10-2022 |
Hi Everyone Back again.... 2 weeks ago after sorting out another issue unrelated to this I pulled to the side of the road and as I slowly pulled up say below 15kph I hear this knocking sound coming from the passenger's side near the front door of my R Type. It sounds somewhat like a rubber mallet knocking against metal as best I can describe it. However, when I take off and drive over say 15klms it does not make any noise at all.... and it only just started But a few days ago I went to start my car and it won't start now...  and unfortunately, I put the car in the garage which is a tight squeeze, to say the least, so I cannot get under the car to remove the battery and see if that is the cause of the nonstart. Oddly though the AMP meter on the dash indicates that the battery is at normal juice load and the interior lights are on etc. I put in the key and then it tries to crank the engine but it drains pretty quickly and after a few seconds, then there is no juice coming from the battery. I was just wondering given that noise I heard at low speeds was kind of emanating from the position of the starter motor near the firewall it occurred to me that perhaps the starter motor could actually be the issue. Be keen to hear others' opinions as to whether my theory has some basis in reality or if am I clasping at straws. I'm pretty sure the mechanic replaced the battery in October of last year but not exactly sure. Im trying to avoid unnecessarily replacing the battery if others think the starter might be the culprit. BTW RHD vehicle and I have not previously had issues starting the car till the last few days. I would get the battery out and have it tested but I can't get under the car to take it out - why on earth did they put the battery in that position.... I have to wait for some of my friends to come help me push her out of the garage and I might be able to access the battery then, But keen to hear people's position about the starter motor? | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 480 Registered: 07-2018 |
Knocking noise _ exhaust making contact with something _ exhaust mounts and actual anchors on the pipes may have failed and are coming lose. Other things that may cause exhaust knocking are the torque arm rubbers failing at the back of the trans _ test by trying to rock the engine back and forth using the valve cover. Don't be afraid to be aggressive here. It should have very little movement, if it does move excessively, you may hear an exhaust knock. Grab the exhaust pipes off the manifolds and see if there is excessive play _ further down too if you can, but as you said, "tight squeeze". The starter motor would have to be coming lose to make a knocking sound like that _ could be the bendix clutch failing making a noise, but I can't see it making a knocking noise _ unlikely the source of the knock other then the starter coming lose from the bell-housing. You said "tries to crank the engine" does it sound like a dead battery slowing the starter down ? Or the bendix is engaging it's gear into the flywheel and the clutch is slipping with-in the bendix _ that's a common problem. The forks in the bendix break and causes the clutch discs to fail. When this happens, the starter can spin freely (or almost freely) even though the bendix gear is engaged into the flywheel. Brushes may also be failing and drawing too much current, symptoms as you describe when this happens. If you have a battery charger, you can use the starter solenoid and a good ground to hook it up. When using the solenoid to hook up the charger, use the side where the battery is connected of course, not the cable leading to the starter. Take note if it's positive ground; if it is, the BLACK cable from the charger goes to the relay, and the RED goes to ground. The bell housing will make a good ground (earth). If you have a spare battery, it can also be hooked up in this fashion _ take care that when hooking "clunky" jumper cables to the solenoid that they don't touch an "earth" or want to pop off. | ||
| Richard Gray New User Username: mooney1el Post Number: 34 Registered: 08-2016 |
Edward - After reading your post, I am a bit confused. You say that the battery access is from under the car, yet on my R-type and MK VI, the battery is accessed under the right front seat. I remove the seat bottom, then loosen the four quarter turn fasteners and remove the battery cover. The battery (as well as the brake master cylinder) is then exposed for maintenance or replacement. Is your car different? | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 481 Registered: 07-2018 |
I was thinking about that just before bed last night. It would be impossible to remove the battery from underneath, not to mention snugging up the terminals on the battery posts. It would not be different, if there was no access from under the seat, how would one check the fluid in the master cylinder. There are many quirky deigns in these cars, but I don't think RR would make it that difficult to get at the battery and master cylinder. The cover has to be there Edward, I think you're just now aware of it. This should also make it much easier for you to try a different battery with some jumper cables, then my method explained above. | ||
| Edward Shoesmith New User Username: younghenri Post Number: 47 Registered: 10-2022 |
Hi Guys Apologises for the tardy late reply and many thanks to you all for your invaluable inputs. As it turns out the battery was just flat a replacement has seemed to rectify the issue. I guess that makes me somewhat silly but I was told by a previous mechanic (not my current one) he replaced in Oct last year - I GUESS NOT!! - just another shady mechanic..... The noise from near the fire wall at the passenger door has not returned since I got the car restarted - which is very odd and more than somewhat annoying to be frank so I guess I will have to wait and see what happens from here in. Although I do suspect their is some issue with the transmission though. I have in the past months noted consistently that on cold starts their is a noise emanating from transmission housing. However once operating temp is reached it does dissipates and transmission appears ok although I do suspect at times it might be slipping also I note that on occasions not always especially on inclines at times the gearbox does not shift down even when flat to the floor - again is only occasionally- AGAIN more than somewhat annoying - but as I have no point of reference and given my paranoia in regards to this car it could just be all in my head. My mechanic did drive it a few weeks ago after having other repairs done and he stated he thought it ran really well. And as he specialises in vintage and classics - particularly RR&B I guess I will have to have a lil faith in his judgment. BTW I have regularly check the transmission fluid level and it is at the top line level and the car has no leaks. |
